GS Rectifier/Regulator replace

[bitzz]

Yamaha doesn't make that regulator, it's made by Shindengen and you'll find it on a whole bunch of motorcycles, atvs, industrial motors. It is the 'go to" part, and yes it is a MOSFET series device, with a shunt regulator. AFIK there are two Shindenegn part numbers for these, an early one and a later one. The early ones were made in Fukushima and the plant got washed away, and they were harder to get. The later ones have better (faster) MOSFETs.
IIRC the Yamaha is one of the most expensive part numbers, I found the CanAm to be the cheapest. Doesn't matter what name is on the box, they're all the same part.
... and there is more "knock offs" on the market than real ones, so beware of where you get them. I have never seen a "boot leg" one work for more than an hour... BUT there are knock offs that work. I think Rick's electric sells a knock off that he will warranty
A shunt regulator "shunts" or dumps excess power to the frame, or negative battery, they don't turn off the flow. There is no way to stop the rotor from generating electricity when it spins.

 

[Nessism]

That Yamaha R/R is an FH020AA unit. Shunt type. A quality R/R, but it won't help protect your stator the way a SH775 will. If your stator burns out using it, you may want to consider switching next time.

 

[Rob S.]

...yes it is a MOSFET series device, with a shunt regulator.

I thought R/Rs were series OR shunt. Can it be both?

 

[Shin-Ken 1074]

That Yamaha R/R is an FH020AA unit. Shunt type. A quality R/R, but it won't help protect your stator the way a SH775 will. If your stator burns out using it, you may want to consider switching next time.

Thanks for the heads-up Nessism and the advise regarding the SH775. Yes, the one I installed is an FH020AA unit and not the SH775 I should have bought, oops! I'll keep an eye on the volts meter and if it goes over 15 on a ride I'll disconnect one of the yellow stator wires from the harness and hope no damage is done before I get it home. In the past I have been advised to ride with the headlight on hi during the day to help bleed power, maybe that is the reason the original OEM Reg/Rec lasted 43 years?

Cheers.

Reg rec f by Max Mutarn, on Flickr


Reg rec g by Max Mutarn, on Flickr

 

[Nessism]

Thanks for the heads-up Nessism and the advise regarding the SH775. Yes, the one I installed is an FH020AA unit and not the SH775 I should have bought, oops! I'll keep an eye on the volts meter and if it goes over 15 on a ride I'll disconnect one of the yellow stator wires from the harness and hope no damage is done before I get it home. In the past I have been advised to ride with the headlight on hi during the day to help bleed power, maybe that is the reason the original OEM Reg/Rec lasted 43 years?

Cheers.

43 years with a shunt R/R. I wouldn't worry a whole lot about the situation now! I'd run it, but keep a search open for a SH775. They both use the same connector, so an easy swap.

 

[bitzz]

I thought R/Rs were series OR shunt. Can it be both?

Shunt describes the function of the regulator. It "shunts" excess power. Permanent magnet rotor alternators, like on most modern motorcycles, all have a shunt regulator. With a permanent magnet alternator the only thing regulating stator AC output is the RPM.
The "usual" type regulator (like you find on a car) varies the voltage, increasing or decreasing the magnetism, in the rotor to regulate AC output of the stator. (Sorry I can't remember what you would call this setup... "switching" regulator maybe... and there is at least 3 common types of these setups)
So if the alternator doesn't have brushes, it probably has a shunt regulator


Series describes the circuit. A series reg has the regulator circuit in series with the power "flow". A parallel regulator the regulating circuit is parallel to, or beside, the "flow". A series reg has a lot less wiring in it, so it runs cooler.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=elec...8NF&oq=electrical+difference+of+series+and+pa

The MOSFET part is the diodes in the rectifier. Mosfet diodes are more efficient than regular diodes. They're much faster switching and require a LOT less power to run (by like a factor of 5), meaning a lot less heat. Heat is a major cause of reg/rec failure, when heat goes up, resistance goes up, which causes more heat and more resistance till the smoke escapes

 

[Grimly]

nnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn

 

[Shin-Ken 1074]

43 years with a shunt R/R. I wouldn't worry a whole lot about the situation now! I'd run it, but keep a search open for a SH775. They both use the same connector, so an easy swap.

Thanks, good to know it is a plug and play swap for the SH775 now that I have the wiring and connectors in place.

 

[grcamna2]

Could have only been enhanced if there was a more compact version. The series design with auto disconnect already is a massive improvement over OEM.

Where have you mounted yours:around the battery ?

 

[jdub6092]

Where have you mounted yours:around the battery ?

Same place as the original on the battery holder cage. Just takes up a lot more space.

 

[taylordr61]

I doubt you will have any troubles, even if air isn't flowing over it. Convection will keep it plenty cool. Those R/Rs are very robust.

Repeating myself, but be sure to hook it up like this. And check for voltage loss due to the wiring on your bike. Worst thing you can do, is hook it up into the factory harness like the original R/R. That's bad! The wiring up to the hand control often overheats and melts the harness. No no no.

SH775 Install by nessism, on Flickr

sorry to revive an old post. I have a 1982 Suzuki gs850L with a whopping 4400 miles on it. I think the voltage reg is bad. The stator is not grounded to chasis and the resisatance it 1-2 ohms pending on how hard I push the probes into the clips. Frm what I have read 1982 Suzuki GS850L uses the excited-field charging system which is why the three stator wires are different than the newer replacement 3 yellow wire systems? I have an aramox Motorcycle Voltage Rectifier, Voltage Regulator for GS850G GS850GL GS850GN GS1000. However I was also told that it will not work with my bike. To add to the troubles the second screw ( which who uses phillips screws on engines) will not come out. Long story short. WIll that regulator work or do I need to buy the one above? Plus any idea if it is a permanen magnet system or excited field system?

 

[rphillips]

First off, Welcome to the site, glad you found us. Tay (short for taylordr61) Hoping you get the info you're hunting for here. I'm not much on electrics, but those stupid Phillips screws... They ain't Phillips, they're JIS, get some JIS screwdrivers and it'll make things much easier. Also a little cheap hand held impact driver is a must for working on these old rice burners. I'm sure there'll be somebody along shortly to help with the electric stuff... Good luck

 

[Nessism]

sorry to revive an old post. I have a 1982 Suzuki gs850L with a whopping 4400 miles on it. I think the voltage reg is bad. The stator is not grounded to chasis and the resisatance it 1-2 ohms pending on how hard I push the probes into the clips. Frm what I have read 1982 Suzuki GS850L uses the excited-field charging system which is why the three stator wires are different than the newer replacement 3 yellow wire systems? I have an aramox Motorcycle Voltage Rectifier, Voltage Regulator for GS850G GS850GL GS850GN GS1000. However I was also told that it will not work with my bike. To add to the troubles the second screw ( which who uses phillips screws on engines) will not come out. Long story short. WIll that regulator work or do I need to buy the one above? Plus any idea if it is a permanen magnet system or excited field system?

Send that Aramox R/R back to Amazon, and buy a Shindengen SH775 off ebay instead. Your bike uses a standard three-phase permanent magnet alternator. GS bikes don't use excited field. When searching for a SH775, be aware that there are tons of fakes in the marketplace. Look for a used one, and verify that "SH775" is printed on the top fin. For an adapter harness, buy the Triumph harness. It's cheap.

BTW, get a #2 and #3 Vessel Impacto screwdriver. They are a lifesaver, and not overly expensive.

 

[taylordr61]

First off, Welcome to the site, glad you found us. Tay (short for taylordr61) Hoping you get the info you're hunting for here. I'm not much on electrics, but those stupid Phillips screws... They ain't Phillips, they're JIS, get some JIS screwdrivers and it'll make things much easier. Also a little cheap hand held impact driver is a must for working on these old rice burners. I'm sure there'll be somebody along shortly to help with the electric stuff... Good luck

Found that out and ordered a set on amazon delivered on friday. Thanks

Send that Aramox R/R back to Amazon, and buy a Shindengen SH775 off ebay instead. Your bike uses a standard three-phase permanent magnet alternator. GS bikes don't use excited field. When searching for a SH775, be aware that there are tons of fakes in the marketplace. Look for a used one, and verify that "SH775" is printed on the top fin. For an adapter harness, buy the Triumph harness. It's cheap.

BTW, get a #2 and #3 Vessel Impacto screwdriver. They are a lifesaver, and not overly expensive.

thanks. Since its past the return window. Will it work while i find and order the sh775 and harness just to make sure nothing else is wrong

 

[Rob S.]

Ask Nessim to provide you with the SH775. He'll get you one that has been confirmed genuine, tested and confirmed working. You won't get that kind of deal on ebay.