Rotor puller needed

[chuck hahn]

I posted a few links in the build thread.

[rustybronco]

Tom, this one doesn't. Plus the the bolt thread on the crank is 14MM(??) and the rotor is 16MM. Doesn't leave much of an edge to sit something on the side of it.

http://thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1271337#post1271337

[rustybronco]

The bolt size used to retain the rotor is a 12mm X 1.25 pitch. Let me think about this a minute... What else is 12mm x 1.25? Well that would be a 12mm spark plug! and I just happen to have a spare one at home that I can cut and thread into the hole.

[tom203]

The bolt size used to retain the rotor is a 12mm X 1.25 pitch. Let me think about this a minute... What else is 12mm x 1.25? Well that would be a 12mm spark plug! and I just happen to have a spare one at home that I can cut and thread into the hole.

Yeah, but will you be able to get it out after the deed is done?? How about a short 3/8 " hex head bolt to nest inside that 12 mm thread? unlikely to damage threads.

[bwringer]

Yeah, but will you be able to get it out after the deed is done?? How about a short 3/8 " hex head bolt to nest inside that 12 mm thread? unlikely to damage threads.

Yep, I use a smaller socket head (allen) bolt and let the head rest on the outside of the crank. In other words, it doesn't thread into the crank.

Crude diagram I created for my 850G -- I think the threads in the rotor are 16mm on the 1000, not the 14mm mentioned in the image, but the principle is the same:



The manual does mention using a slide hammer which does not work. At all. You can't believe a lot of what you read in the manuals.

[rustybronco]

Thanks for the effort to make up the Diagram Brian.

I decided to cut the end of a 12mm spark plug just below the hex and remove the ground electrode. That way I can thread it in the end of the crank and give the swing arm bolt a bit more to rest against when I crank down on it. I feel a bit more secure doing it this way than hoping I get enough 'purchase' on the end of the crank by just sticking something else in the end of it and praying it doesn't damage the threads.

[Suzuki_Don]

The official Suzuki tool for this job is a slide hammer as illustrated in the special tools section of the GS1000 Factory Manual. By the sounds of it the taper has had Loctite applied to it. Mine was the same and it took a lot of encouragement to be removed, but the slide hammer did the job.

[rustybronco]

In retrospect, I believe mine to be the same way as yours was. Unfortunately I was a bit hesitant to warm it up to remove the rotor and decided to try the inverted 1/4" extension idea someone else had used with success.

You should see the little apparatus I just made up. It's the bottom half of a 12mm spark with a round headed cap screw bonded to the center of the hole with structural adhesive.

It's very professional looking if I do say so myself.

[chuck hahn]

So is the rotot actually off yet???

[Suzuki_Don]

In retrospect, I believe mine to be the same way as yours was. Unfortunately I was a bit hesitant to warm it up to remove the rotor and decided to try the inverted 1/4" extension idea someone else had used with success.

You should see the little apparatus I just made up. It's the bottom half of a 12mm spark with a round headed cap screw bonded to the center of the hole with structural adhesive.

It's very professional looking if I do say so myself.

Yes Dale, But did you get the rotor off. FANCY TOOLS are no good if they don't do the job.

[rustybronco]

I'm still at work... let me get home first

[tkent02]

And of course, pictures?

[rustybronco]

Most definitely...

[chuck hahn]

I would be careful with heat at the rotor...heat tends to ruin magnets and may release the adhesive holding them in. And why in gods name didnt you just bring the crank with you to work...thats what work is for. Working on your stuff while everyone else tends to the parts bins!!!!! Tell John I say hello...HA HA.

[rustybronco]

I wanted to remove the rotor so I could stand the engine on end to finish draining the oil from it. Years ago I would have tiped it up, removed the drain plug and held it over the drain pan, now I have to work within my backs limitations.

I would be careful with heat at the rotor..

That's what I was thinking...

I'll say Hi to John for you.