Ghosts in my blinkers

[cliffnote]

On my 79 1000e I have an intermittent left turn signal. It totally works when it wants to but the right signal is as dependable as a Rolex. The bike can be sitting completely still (without motor running) and the left may work on 30% of my tries. I have taken apart the handlebar switch and cleaned contacts as well as inspected; all appears to be operating fine. I have looked for shorts but can't figure out how that could be the problem if the condition doesn't change when I wiggle the wires. I have cleaned the contacts withing the connectors as well. Now here is the interesting thing: When riding the bike, the left signal will not work for the first 15 minutes. But after that, all of a sudden, it works with regularity. BTW: If this bike ever came with auto-canceling signals, it never worked for me or my brother who bought the bike new.
I appreciate any ideas from my zook gurus. I thank you in advance.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Check the grounds and I would disassemble the turn signal control module and re solder the circuit board

[Sie Motorräder]

Change the bulb. It may have a small break in the filament.

Control module? Sorry never heard of one so I will shut up now.

[rustybronco]

Check the grounds and I would disassemble the turn signal control module and re solder the circuit board

Unfortunately, that's near impossible to do on that unit. the only things that are accessible on the board are two contacts on each relay, one end of a diode and one wire. the rest of the components are either covered by a plastic shield (the housing) which would have to be cut away, or encased in epoxy. the vast majority of the components are potted in epoxy.

from what I know so far about those turn signal control units, I would speculate the TSCU is bad.

I have one TSCU almost completely un-potted and three more waiting their turn thanks to Steve! (sedelen)

yes, the '79 GS1000E's came with self canceling turn signals from the factory as did the '78 'E'.

[Steve]

One more thing that might help troubleshooting and is non-invasive:

Swap sides with the signal bulbs. Yep, put the left bulbs on the right and the right bulbs on the left. See if the problem stays the same or moves to the other side.

There is a remote possibility that there is an incorrect bulb on the left side, which is not loading the flasher correctly. If the problem moves to the right, the only difference is the bulbs, so change them.

However, if the problem stays on the left, you are going to have to get a little deeper into the system. Start by ensuring that your turn signal housings are properly grounded,

.

[OldVet66]

It is your distance counters in the speedometer. That is exactly what happens when they start messing up. It gets progressively worse.

[cliffnote]

Thanks to all for your suggestions. I will start with the easiest and work my way up on the more difficult solutions. If, in fact, the last resort is a distance counter in the speedometer; what's the fix?

[OldVet66]

At first I thought the problem was the control unit. I replaced it and it happened again shortly after the change. The same symptoms. I had planned on changing my clocks. when I did, my turn signals started working perfectly. I just remember seeing the distance counters in the wiring diagram as part of the turn signal circuit. I haven't looked into a solution for the counters yet, but it is on my to do list.

[rustybronco]

The speedometer assembly has a reed switch inside it.

the reed switch is supplied a voltage by the TSCU. when this reed switch is opened and closed as the speedometer is being turned, the switch supplies a voltage output which is used by the TSCU to determine what road speed to hold off, (below 9.3 mph) or to start (above 9.3 mph) the count down timer for self cancel. when testing the reed switch with a continuity tester, or the continuity position of a DVOM, a pulse should occur approximately every 60 degrees when rotating the speedometers input 'drive'.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reed_switch

[sachsaca]

Yea, what he said,

[850 Combat]

So is this serviceable? I have a spare speedo, but it shows 32000 fewer miles than the original, and I don't want to change it.

Paul

The speedometer assembly has a reed switch inside it.

the reed switch is supplied a voltage by the TSCU. when this reed switch is opened and closed as the speedometer is being turned, the switch supplies a voltage output which is used by the TSCU to determine what road speed to hold off, (below 9.3 mph) or to start (above 9.3 mph) the count down timer for self cancel. when testing the reed switch with a continuity tester, or the continuity position of a DVOM, a pulse should occur approximately every 60 degrees when rotating the speedometers input 'drive'.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reed_switch

[rustybronco]

You should be able to replace the reed switch if you don't mind dissecting the speedometer. I have one open at the moment, but I haven't looked into replacing the reed switch.

[cliffnote]

blinker blues

Okay, so I switched the bulbs from left to right and vise-versa but no help. I also used an extra ground on the lights as well but that didn't help either. My brother insists that he never had self-canceling turn signals on this 1000E but maybe it broke so soon after he got it he never knew and just used the manual turn-off.

[Steve]

OK, you now know that the problem is NOT the bulbs or the ground.

Happy hunting.

.

[cliffnote]

Roger that; it may be time to open up the speedo.....God be with me!