From a sow's ear..

[nvr2old]

..to a silk purse. Here's the S mirrors that I got that were pretty rough to begin with. Pretty happy with the re-do.

Before:



After:





Got my drilled rotors from Eric today, too. They cleaned up real nice.











Thanks, Eric, couldn't be happier. Can't wait to put em on.

[Joe Nardy]

Great work , as usual Larry. Now if you only had a matching rear rotor.....

[nvr2old]

Great work , as usual Larry. Now if you only had a matching rear rotor.....

I'm a patient man, Joe..

[rustybronco]

I would like to know the ancient Chinese secret you used for the low gloss black used on the mirrors.

pretty please...

[chuck hahn]

Yes do tell...thats the way the calipers and switch boxes are supposed to look from the factory but its really hard to duplicate it as nicely as that.

[rustybronco]

Amen to that Chuck!

[nvr2old]

The finish is achieved through several steps actually. I sanded the mirror backs bare with 80 grit, did the body work, followed by high-fill primer, block sanded with 400, primed a second time, block sanded with 600, then several coats of a satin black designed for repainting plastic interior parts and bumpers. It's available in a spray can at auto paint stores for about 15 bux a can. It's actually called "Trim Paint". It's a good product, covers really well, and sticks like you wouldn't believe..even has an adjustable fan. I painted the mirrors, let em dry, then wet sanded them with 800 and then spayed em again. That's why it lays out so smooth in the final coats. I even used it on the rotor centers. For switch covers it wouldn't be quite so involved. Hope that helps.

[chuck hahn]

Rotors look awesome EXCEPT..Yeah i gotta do it..the rivet heada arent supposed to be painted over. OEM was plains stainless heads showing.

[nvr2old]

I got lazy .

[chuck hahn]

Qtips and some laquer thinner is how i clean them after paint. I tape off the braking surface and shoot them fully. Thinner to remove the heads and the raised ridges like you did on the spokes. Youre comming along nicely grashopper..HA HA HA.

[rustybronco]

then several coats of a satin black designed for repainting plastic interior parts and bumpers. It's available in a spray can at auto paint stores for about 15 bux a can. It's actually called "Trim Paint". It's a good product, covers really well, and sticks like you wouldn't believe..even has an adjustable fan. I painted the mirrors, let em dry, then wet sanded them with 800 and then spayed em again. That's why it lays out so smooth in the final coats.

Well as Chuck said, it looks like a dead ringer for the factor satin on the hand controls.

Thanks Larry! and, those mirrors look like your typical act of perfection.

[nvr2old]

Well as Chuck said, it looks like a dead ringer for the factor satin on the hand controls.

Thanks Larry! and, those mirrors look like your typical act of perfection.

Thanks, RB.

[rustybronco]

No, thank you Larry. I'm the one who benefits from your skills.

[ikantbreave]

The finish is achieved through several steps actually. I sanded the mirror backs bare with 80 grit, did the body work, followed by high-fill primer, block sanded with 400, primed a second time, block sanded with 600, then several coats of a satin black designed for repainting plastic interior parts and bumpers. It's available in a spray can at auto paint stores for about 15 bux a can. It's actually called "Trim Paint". It's a good product, covers really well, and sticks like you wouldn't believe..even has an adjustable fan. I painted the mirrors, let em dry, then wet sanded them with 800 and then spayed em again. That's why it lays out so smooth in the final coats. I even used it on the rotor centers. For switch covers it wouldn't be quite so involved. Hope that helps.

For all the noob painters out there, see? It really IS about the prep work.

[Joe Nardy]

I'm a patient man, Joe..

I have a feeling your patience will be rewarded very soon.....