ANOTHER R/R THAT WILL WORK

[rustybronco]

Well i have just used a Shindengen sh530-12k from a kowaski (yep thats right) off a kz750? six wire regulator, three yellow input wires to the three outputs from the stator, red to red, black to ground on the frame did not hook up the brown sense wire from the regulator, Charging system voltage @ 2500 rpm 13.71v and @ 5000 rpm 13.84v with the high beam on yes i know it is not too high but all it has to be is between 13.5v - 14.7v it has kept it going for three days riding back and forth to work 33 miles each way.. short trips also. This regulator is between 2-3 times larger than the stock gs850gz R/R but the bolt holes are not the same use one original hole and put a locking nut and a washer to clamp it to the bracket near the other hole, you must use longer bolts because this R/R is BIGGER you also may have to lenghten the wires (I did have to) for your application, be sure to solder and heat shrink the wires, also please check the rest of the charging system first ! and then its GOOD TO GO.

[focus frenzy]

are you sure the brown wire is a sense wire?
a number of Kawasaki's had the power wire for the headlight coming from the regulator.
that way the headlight did not come on till the engine was started and the charging system putting out power.
I dont have a diagram for my voyager but it does have a brown wire coming from the regulator (from the right one, it has two regulators and stators!) and the headlight wont come on till the engine starts.

there is a shortage of kawasaki diagrams online, I have one for the KLR650 and the brown wire from its diagram provides power for the lights and horn, the regulator has a white wire that goes to charging the battery and power the ignition.

[rustybronco]

I will check tommorow to see if there is 12v out the brown wire but i have seen where the brown wire is hooked up to a wire that is hot with the key on.
Some web sites that i have been on said that it was a voltage sense (remember this is for a sh530-12k) gave me the impression that it was for voltage input to help regulate the red/white output. i will try to find the web addresss, also this sight shows a brown wire on a sh232 hooked to a +12v key on circuit. (i think it was suggested to connect it to a tail light circuit ) and some people have used that rect/reg with or without the brown connected in my case it did not make a difference with or without it hooked up. but if this info is wrong i will do my best to make sure i correct it. i just posted this info because it worked on my 82 gs850g.
I will try to help you if i can, the web is a great place just sometimes to little info...
The Shindengen web site lists sh630 ect. but not sh530 or sh232.

[duaneage]

I would hook that brown to the Orange/white wire which heads to the rear brake light switch, that is a source of 12 volts right from the fusebox and it is a good reference for the RR.
I made a Y cable to plug it in so I did not molest any wires.

[Clone]

I was reading through the kawa forum, and the brown is an acc. wire.
So I figure the power comes on after the the stator starts to spin.
:roll:
But since I can't find a wiring diagram for the specific reg. Check it with the engine off and with the engine running.

[rustybronco]

Will check it key on and engine off and key on engine running
I think i may e-mail shindengen about the brown wire...

[Steve]

I just looked in my wiring diagram for my Voyager 1300 and can not tell if the brown wire is a sense wire or a supply wire.

Focus Frenzy, the headlight is not powered by that wire, nor does the engine have to be running to turn on the headlight. The headlight relay is grounded through the starter relay, so all you have to do is bump the starter button, but not long enough to actually start the engine.

[rustybronco]

Well I found the web site and it said the brown is the sense wire.
checked the brown wire (unconnected) key on engine off, it showed -.11 v and with the engine running -.15v but what the hay! without the brown wire being connected 16.91 volts@ 5000 rpm!!! check'd water in battery BOILED OUT !???? when i first did this reg it showed 13.8v approx now way over voltage!!!!!! let it set 10 mins and checked it again 16.9+ volts !!!!!! so I took the brown wire from the R/R and connected it to the orange/ white wire (hot with key on) started the bike and it was a ROCK STABLE 14.75v @ 5000 rpm
I will check it again today at work and make sure it stays that way!!!!!!!
will let you know if the voltage changes. but it sure seems like the brown is a sense input wire. Dale

[rustybronco]

lunch time today 14.61v @5000 rpm 60+ miles of riding

[duaneage]

The sense wire is required as you found out, and you fixed this problem for a lot less than an electrix RR

[rustybronco]

That was my intent. e-bay 20.00 including shipping looked brand spankin' new--gotta love it...
and to give others confidence to fix thers!!!
looking forward to rewinding a stator some day...
I have learned so much from the board it's my turn to give back.
hope i did...

[Anonymous]

Yup $25 inlcuding shipping from Ebay. Mine was from a Honda CB motorcycle. SH235 with 3 yellows, red, black, and brown. This info is great and cleared it up for me too. I was thinking of hooking the sense wire to the coil feed, that way it will keep the coils nice and fed. Would that be ok, or will that raise my batt voltage too high?

[duaneage]

Coil wires should be OK but then again the feed wire for the rear brake light switch is right there so that is pretty convienient. I can't imagine paying 130 dollars for an RR. And forget the warranty, buy three honda regulators and you have enough spares to cover you. I plan to get at least one more and modify it so I will have a carry spare I can bring along on long rides. I have a voltmeter on my bike so I will know immediately if my honda reg ever goes out.

This and the o rings on the intake boots seems to be the main problem with an otherwise excellent series of motorcycles.

[BigMattyD]

I just installed the same type r/r you described on my 450GA. I had to do some tricky modification to mount the new r/r, because it is more bulky.

Just for fun, I tried hooking it up without the brown wire, and the voltage went up to 16.5 volts with high revs. Then I connected the brown wire to +12V and the voltage stayed around 13.8 at normal engine speeds and maxed out around 14.5 at top speed.

So the brown wire is a must. I attached it to the taillight wire as others have suggested.

Note to others: be careful that the r/r you get is the same type as our bikes need, that is a 3-phase AC hookup, without connections for an alternator field coil. As I was searching Ebay and comparing to the electrex web site, I found a good number that use a field coil alternator, which I think is similar to what we use on our cars, rather than the type we have with a permanent magnet and stator coil.

Unfortunately there is no resource available that lists the various different r/r s that are compatible with the GS bikes. Maybe someone can organize a thread listing them, or put an addendum to the stator papers. It probably would not be popular with the electrex/elecrosport crew, but more realistic for guys (or ladies) who are working on 20-30 year old bikes.

Buying a new regulator would have cost at least 20% of what I paid for my bike (500 big ones.) Instead, I paid 24.99 including shipping.

Matt

[duaneage]

I agree that we need a Honda Regulator Mod page to go along with the stator pages. Actually there are a number of errors in the stator pages, I have emailed the site master about it but have not gotten a reply yet. The RR diodes are measured in ohms not volts as the pages state.

I plan to get 1 or 2 more Hondas and convert them as traveling spares or even offer them for sale and see how that goes., I will try and make a prefessional looking series of pictures so that anyone can do this. It seems 1/3rd of the technical posts are about RR and stators with the Honda Mod being the most oft asked question of all.