Sometimes I think they are trolling for someone to say, "It can't be fixed, you must go buy a shiny new motorcycle."
But I didn't get that impression from this guy.
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Sometimes I think they are trolling for someone to say, "It can't be fixed, you must go buy a shiny new motorcycle."
But I didn't get that impression from this guy.
5
520eek
Guest
I also feel that this op is wanting help also. I am in the same predicament with 1980 850G. I had posted some info in the general maint area but will post here. I was following along to hopefully gain some knowledge and try to figure out what is wrong with my bike.
A
almarconi
Guest
No matter what is suggested it has already been checked and rechecked.
How can you sync the carbs if the engine is only running on 3 cylinders? Is the spark plug wet on cylinder 1? If not, do you have fuel in the bowl? Remove the bowl and move the float, gas should pour out.. have you checked?
Its pretty obvious that you are missing something otherwise your bike would be running on all cylinder and the pipes would be getting hot.
E
egetron
Guest
Man, almarconi, why so grumpy?
I saw your first post and I plan on checking my compression and spark as you suggested.
How do I determine a "healthy" spark? Is an orange spark necessarily bad? I think I may remember my spark being slightly orange.
I will also check to see if the spark plug is wet. I have checked in the past but remember not really being able to tell. Sometimes it seemed wet, sometimes it seemed dry. But I'll check again.
I did sync the carbs... why wouldn't it work if it's only running on 3 cylinders? Isn't the sync just measuring air pressure? The non-running cylinder is still pumping air right?
Not trying to be a know-it-all, I'm asking because I don't know!
I saw your first post and I plan on checking my compression and spark as you suggested.
How do I determine a "healthy" spark? Is an orange spark necessarily bad? I think I may remember my spark being slightly orange.
I will also check to see if the spark plug is wet. I have checked in the past but remember not really being able to tell. Sometimes it seemed wet, sometimes it seemed dry. But I'll check again.
I did sync the carbs... why wouldn't it work if it's only running on 3 cylinders? Isn't the sync just measuring air pressure? The non-running cylinder is still pumping air right?
Not trying to be a know-it-all, I'm asking because I don't know!
Hi
If you think you spark is on the orange side when you test it outside of the cylinder then it is likely to be weak or fail when it's under compression do you have or can borrow a colortune see link
http://www.carbtune.co.uk/colortune.html
That way you can visually see if your getting a spark under compression as well as the mixture colour.
Colortune are sold on eBay as well.
Hope this helps
If you think you spark is on the orange side when you test it outside of the cylinder then it is likely to be weak or fail when it's under compression do you have or can borrow a colortune see link
http://www.carbtune.co.uk/colortune.html
That way you can visually see if your getting a spark under compression as well as the mixture colour.
Colortune are sold on eBay as well.
Hope this helps
E
egetron
Guest
Same problem persists
So I'm getting what appears to be a pretty good spark (blue/purple) on all four cylinders.
Also worth mentioning, when I run the engine, it reaks of gas. Which leads me to believe that a bunch of gas is going into the engine and not getting burned. When I take out the first cylinder plug, it appears to be WET... so could it still be a carb problem?
Thanks for all your help guys.
So I'm getting what appears to be a pretty good spark (blue/purple) on all four cylinders.
Also worth mentioning, when I run the engine, it reaks of gas. Which leads me to believe that a bunch of gas is going into the engine and not getting burned. When I take out the first cylinder plug, it appears to be WET... so could it still be a carb problem?
Thanks for all your help guys.
DONT START IT if you even REMOTELY suspect fuel is in the oil. Find the source first. take both lines off the petcock and use some vacuum line..or whatever.. to run lines down to two clear soda bottles and let them sit for several hours or over night. This will let you know if the petcock is leaking and from which nipple. Do this in the normal ON position.
Second..never let the bike sit with the petcock in the PRIme position.
If the petcock isnt leaking, the next suspect is the floats and float needles. Inspect that the floats are in good condition, the float needles dont have wear grooves in the tips if they are metal and look for creased lines in the rubber of the rubber tipped style. Also see that the seats themselves dont look damaged where the tips poke in and make the seals.
Check float hts. wrong float hts may not allow the needles to shut off fuel flow..and that leaking fuel has to go somewhere....down the carb throats..past the rings..and into the crankcase.
WET plugs is an indication of the float hts being wrong, mixture screws set too far out, a choke plunger not closing all the way or having bad seats, weak ( although an existing ) spark. Just the top several things i would check before trying to run the bike.
Second..never let the bike sit with the petcock in the PRIme position.
If the petcock isnt leaking, the next suspect is the floats and float needles. Inspect that the floats are in good condition, the float needles dont have wear grooves in the tips if they are metal and look for creased lines in the rubber of the rubber tipped style. Also see that the seats themselves dont look damaged where the tips poke in and make the seals.
Check float hts. wrong float hts may not allow the needles to shut off fuel flow..and that leaking fuel has to go somewhere....down the carb throats..past the rings..and into the crankcase.
WET plugs is an indication of the float hts being wrong, mixture screws set too far out, a choke plunger not closing all the way or having bad seats, weak ( although an existing ) spark. Just the top several things i would check before trying to run the bike.
Oh and be sure the rubber plugs are over the pilot jets on CV carbs..if not they will flow tons of fuel and flood that particular carbs cylinder in seconds flat. AND just because they are there doesnt mean they are sealing right. If they are old and hard or have the indent in the tops from the carb bowls really pressed in them, i say replace them.
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E
egetron
Guest
I suspect I do have a leaky petcock. I definitely need to take care of that. Could that cause my bike to not fire on all cylinders?
I have checked float heights. If I have a leaky petcock, but my floats are working properly, can gas still leak into the engine?
Just out of curiosity. How do I tell if there's gas in the oil? I've replaced the oil recently, and I couldn't tell by looking at it. Also, what happens if I attempt to run it? Could it explode?
And, for the almarconi's out there, when I ask these questions, I'm not trying to argue/question your judgment, I'm asking for my own edification!
Thanks everyone!
I have checked float heights. If I have a leaky petcock, but my floats are working properly, can gas still leak into the engine?
Just out of curiosity. How do I tell if there's gas in the oil? I've replaced the oil recently, and I couldn't tell by looking at it. Also, what happens if I attempt to run it? Could it explode?
And, for the almarconi's out there, when I ask these questions, I'm not trying to argue/question your judgment, I'm asking for my own edification!
Thanks everyone!
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Is the oil level higher than it was? Does the oil smell like gasoline? If not it's not leaking much if any.
If it's an internally leaking petcock it can leak into the engine when it's shut off, can even fill the crankcase with fuel, but when the engine is running the petcock is supposed to be wide open anyway, so the leak won't effect how it runs.
If it's an internally leaking petcock it can leak into the engine when it's shut off, can even fill the crankcase with fuel, but when the engine is running the petcock is supposed to be wide open anyway, so the leak won't effect how it runs.
You can smell a gas scent in the oil thru the filler cap. No it wont explode...but the thinned oil will cause the bearings in the crank and cams to not be lubed and suffer damage.
And yes, even though the floats are working and raising the float needles, the petcock can leak gas into the crankcase. It will run down the vacuum tube and into the sump.
And yes, even though the floats are working and raising the float needles, the petcock can leak gas into the crankcase. It will run down the vacuum tube and into the sump.
E
egetron
Guest
It's not leaking through the vacuum tube. It's basically stuck in Prime. How about then?
Yes,,,thats a problem..the petcock should not ever be on prime except for to prime the carbs from say a tear down or running the tank completely out of gas on reserve.
You need to fix that petcock or replace it. Replacing is the best option. Most repair kits and tries at fixing them seem to have a 25 to 30 % chance of success.
Boulevard Suzuki ( Deland ) says its still available..check the fuel tank parts fiche....$73.89 plus shipping. And youll need two of the gasket washers that go on the petcock bolts as well...item # 16.
13 44300-47270 COCK ASSY, FUEL | Includes Item(s) 14 $100.11 $73.89
You need to fix that petcock or replace it. Replacing is the best option. Most repair kits and tries at fixing them seem to have a 25 to 30 % chance of success.
Boulevard Suzuki ( Deland ) says its still available..check the fuel tank parts fiche....$73.89 plus shipping. And youll need two of the gasket washers that go on the petcock bolts as well...item # 16.
13 44300-47270 COCK ASSY, FUEL | Includes Item(s) 14 $100.11 $73.89
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E
egetron
Guest
i know this is considered the "dreaded" petcock. Is there a petcock from another bike or an Aftermarket one that's better?
