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1100 motor apart

  • Thread starter Thread starter monte
  • Start date Start date
M

monte

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I must re-sleeve my 1100E. Is it a big deal to re and re sleeves.
Have done this with diesels, but not air-cooled bikes.
 
WHY must you resleeve? Is a simple honing not going to do the job? It would be simpler still to step up a size on the bore. Generally, unless you have some SERIOUS cylinder wall damage, you can get +1 or +2 pistons and rings and step up the bore slightly. Then again, I am not entirely sure that would be any cheaper than resleeving??? What about simply finding a spare set of jugs off ebay? They're on there all the time, and usually can be had in pretty good shape for CERTAINLY cheaper than a resleeve.
 
I had two blocks, one with a liner missing and the other with one busted skirt. Just yesterday I took them to a machine shop to have one made whole. It wasn't a big deal. The guy machined a slug to use under the press and it all took maybe an hour, this included some time talking. It took about 1 1/2 tons of pressure to press the liners out. He went ahead and pressed all three good liners out of the block I was discarding so now I have two spares. This block will be used with a set of 12:1 forged Cosworths I've had lying around for years.
 
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sleeves 1100

sleeves 1100

TheCafeKid said:
WHY must you resleeve? Is a simple honing not going to do the job? It would be simpler still to step up a size on the bore. Generally, unless you have some SERIOUS cylinder wall damage, you can get +1 or +2 pistons and rings and step up the bore slightly. Then again, I am not entirely sure that would be any cheaper than resleeving??? What about simply finding a spare set of jugs off ebay? They're on there all the time, and usually can be had in pretty good shape for CERTAINLY cheaper than a resleeve.
Click to expand...

Thanks CafeKid.....there is only fifty bucks diff between boring mine out to 74mm. Or installing new 78mm sleeves and pistons. I have over 90k on this motor.
 
No personal experience but I've heard that the cylinder liners will practically fall out of the cylinder if you heat the assembly. Anyone ever try this?
 
Nessism said:
No personal experience but I've heard that the cylinder liners will practically fall out of the cylinder if you heat the assembly. Anyone ever try this?
Click to expand...
I asked a couple of machinists about this having heard the same. They didn't think it would work. What has to be remembered is that the liners expand along with the block. I've held propane torches on aluminum heads before for bolt extraction and the aluminum barely got warm while the bolt got hot. The two metals heat and expand at different rates.

I had thought about trying it myself but opted to have a machinist take care of it.
 
Been there, Done that. Put the jugs, upside down in an oven. Put bricks at both ends, so the sleeves can just fall out. Put oven on hi. After appx. 30 min. the sleeves just started falling out, one by one. Put the new sleeves in a freezer, the night before. After the old sleeves fall out, the frozen sleeves will fall right in. Be sure the new ones go in flush with the top of the head. Actually easier than it sounds, just don't burn yourself, jugs are kind of bulky to handle in the oven.
 
One more thing, the slug the guy made that pressed my liners out was stepped. The bottom of the slug was machined to match the bore of the liner then stepped to match the outer diameter of the liner. He didn't want to take a chance of expanding the bottom of the liner, especially due to the chamfer on the bottom. If that had happened he would have ruined the block.
 
rphillips said:
Been there, Done that. Put the jugs, upside down in an oven. Put bricks at both ends, so the sleeves can just fall out. Put oven on hi. After appx. 30 min. the sleeves just started falling out, one by one. Put the new sleeves in a freezer, the night before. After the old sleeves fall out, the frozen sleeves will fall right in. Be sure the new ones go in flush with the top of the head. Actually easier than it sounds, just don't burn yourself, jugs are kind of bulky to handle in the oven.
Click to expand...
Good info. I was tempted to try it but as it turned out the block I'm using had already been milled so when he pressed the liner into the block I was using it stuck up 25/1000th so he had to mill the head another 7/1000th to make it flush and get rid of 3/1000th warp.
 
Do NOT set the oven on "high" or you will warp the block! It only needs to be at about 350-400 degrees & it will take just a little longer but the block won't have as much chance to distort. The sleeves DO just fall out. Ray.
 
monte said:
I must re-sleeve my 1100E. Is it a big deal to re and re sleeves.
Have done this with diesels, but not air-cooled bikes.
Click to expand...

it is a breeze. gonna use the oven in your kitchen? it will smoke up the whole house even if you clean the heck out of the cylinders.

remember to use weights on the sleeves them selves when they cool down in the aluminum after installation.
 
Good info guys. I'll start a second business in my kitchen with my industrial ovens. :D
 
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