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1100 wont stay running

  • Thread starter Thread starter harman84
  • Start date Start date
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harman84

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First post here but I have been reading thru a lot posts about my problem. I have a 84 1100 that a recently purchased. The previous owner bought it and lost interest in it. He said it had carb problems. Going on that I cleaned and replaced orings in carbs. I did not find any jets plugged. I though I would but they came the carbs apart easy and were rather clean. The floats however all needed adjusted. The biggest problem was bad intake orings which I replaced. I adjusted the valves which all were tight and replaced foam and air filter to seal up airbox.

So I put it all together and it starts on choke easy and will warm up nice to where I can get the choke off. It will sit there and idle nice for about ten minutes and it just stops like it lost spark or fuel. It don't sputter like a loss of fuel though. I put a direct feed of gas through funnel and it still quit. I loosen float bowls and they all had gas in them. It seems to do this after it warms up. If it sits over night and a start it cold it starts right up and idles fine. After it stalls it will start back of but runs rough and will stall. I can some times hold the rpms up and it will go back to normal but I would take it for a short test ride and when I got back I pulled in garage and just quit. I ran good on test ride.

I am trying to determine if I am loosing spark. I think it is getting fuel. Is a way to see if I am loosing spark or check ignition system.
I also think the charging system may not be fully charging. It is a little over 13 volts when rpms are up. Not sure if this could be related to my running problem. I did notice the 3 yellow coil wire were getting hot to the touch.

Any ideas would be appreciated. One last thing. I did pull the plugs when it quit. the electrode was black and the ground tab was what I would call white.
 
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If it just quits without any sputter or warning, then I'd suspect ignition. Might be a bad/dirty fuse, fuse holder or wire harness issue. Check your coil supply voltages with the engine running. Compare when running good and bad. Verify you have good spark when good and bad. Should be strong and blue.
 
When it stops have you tried restarting it with the choke on? Sounds like you may have an air leak, did you dip the carbs and followed the tutorial?
The three yellow wires you mention that are getting hot could be due to dirty connections
 
JTGS850GL said:
Check your coil supply voltages with the engine running.
Click to expand...

I like that idea. You might have a strong enough battery to get it started but with a compromised charging system the headlight will drain the battery and limit the voltage to the coils.

fastbysuzuki said:
The three yellow wires you mention that are getting hot could be due to dirty connections
Click to expand...

and that may be why. Check the connection from the stator to the RR. It may be melted due to corrosion / high resistance and heat. If that don't get the running battery voltage above 14vdc you'll have to visit the stator papers.....
 
Sounds like it might be a electrical problem. One thing I noticed today was my kill switch quit working. I went to kill engine and it kept running. I don't think this is my problem thought because I never touched the kill switch when it would quit. Can I take the switch apart and clean contacts?
I think the charging system may be the problem. When it died the last time I checked battery volts and it was around 12.2 Would that be enough to give coils enough voltage? If not could I put a battery charger on it and see if it will run with the charger on it? I could see if it would idle for 15-20 minutes without stalling.

I also want to check the floats just to make sure they are set properly. What size hose barb would I need to get to fit the fuel bowl. Is it a metric or sae thread?
 
Don't bet that the kill switch problem is not related. The kill switch is used to remove power from the igniter. If it's not working then something is screwed in the wiring.
 
Well the kill switch started working again. Maybe it is related to the problem maybe its not. Not sure how to troubleshoot that problem though.
Also I am trying to check stator. I went through the flow chart and had a couple questions.
1.when doing step 2 positive voltage drop it says to leave rr connected to bike. does this mean where it plugs into the rr and where it connects to the starter solenoid. If so then my positive from battery goes to same post as red rr wire. Wont I be just checking the same thing because they all touch one another?

2. On the last step of the stator test I got 38,30,5 when I checked them. What does this mean. Are you supposed to get zero here to have a good stator.
 
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