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1100E Cam Chain Guide

  • Thread starter Thread starter RJ
  • Start date Start date
R

RJ

Guest
Hey guys, I'm getting ready to do some servicing on my cylinder head. During this process I plan to install a manual cam chain tensioner. I am also considering replacing the rear cam chain guide. Can the guide be replaced with just the removal of the head?
 
the front one can be but the back one needs the cases split i believe to replace it
 
Thanks for the info Beast. Did you ever replace the rear guide on your bike?
 
Get the unbreakable guide. Mine bolts in at the top of the cases. I'm thinking you would take the head and block off to do it. Since your already taking the head off popping the block off as well is not that big of a deal. in this pic you can see where the rear cam chain guide bolts down.
cases.jpg
[/img]
 
Last edited:
Nice pic Roscoe, thanks. I was hoping it wasn't a deal where I would have to pull the motor and split the cases. I'm getting ready to order my parts from APE so I'm assuming your talking about their guide.
 
RJ,
I have not replaced my rear guide yet. I plan on doung it as a winter project along with having the crank checked and welded.

The Beast
 
Jethro said:
Just the barrels need to come off, no need to split the cases.
Click to expand...

Make sure you have a replacement base gasket when you do this...the hardest part is getting the rings back into the cylinder without breaking one. Be patient, don't rush and you will be alright.If the cylinders have never been bored, the cylinders will have a taper at the bottom that makes it a lot easier.

Hap
 
If I may suggest you order the guides from Schnitz Racing
They are wonderful to work with and ship the same day. I have purchased many a $ worth of parts from them and all are high quality. Not to say APE isn't but they are in California and shipping costs $.
Or if you would like I have two sets I could sell ya cheap. One looks like about 1000 miles on it the other looks like new. They were in a midget sprint car GS 1100 engine and only have about 1/2 season on them.
Be very careful with the manual chain tensioner. You can easily overtighten the chain. If you are running this on the street I suggest you stick with the stock adjuster cause it will take up any slack as the chain stretches. That is if you are putting in a new chain. If the adjuster won't take up the slack now then a manual adjuster isn't what you need. A new cam chain is needed. The manual adjusters are mainly used for racing applications where they are checked regularly. Just my 2cents worth.
 
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