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1100e engine noise

  • Thread starter Thread starter rwnielsen
  • Start date Start date
bonanzadave said:
When I did that a clutch fiber plate broke in half. Might as well check the clutch pack when you have the cover off to check the nut. On the other side....I didnt need a puller. The Crank nut spun loose and the SC was a free-wheelin. F'ed up the taper on the crank.
Click to expand...

Mine was tight. Complete with some evil thread locker. Impact all the way off
 
rwnielsen said:
This question was bound to come up:
How do you get the rotor loose without the factory puller?.....*or*
Where can I get a factory puller?

I started on this side to check the starter gear bolts only because the bike was pointed this way and I could lean it on the bench. Clutch bolt is next after I back the bike into the garage.

I do have a lateral play in the starter gear. Nothing frightening but about .5mm
Click to expand...

There is a reason that I said it is easier to check the clutch and it has nothing to do with how your bike is parked.

There are various rotor nut sagas if you care to use search.

I have never heard of anyone using the factory tool although they are probably ok. Aftermarket tools can work but often break. I modified my aftermarket tool and it now works well.
 
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80-82 rotor's can and do spin off.
never everrrrrrr seen an 83 or any 1150 rotor spin off.
i have seen owners not impact the crank nut to fully seat the 83 and up's and have seen them spin but it was operator error.
apples and oranges guy's.
you need a small thread puller for your 83...factory or nothing as the motion pro stuff is junk for a big taper crank.
if you get this far..leave the complete assembly off and install the cover...bump start it and see if the sound is gone..that will tell the tale.
 
blowerbike said:
80-82 rotor's can and do spin off.
never everrrrrrr seen an 83 or any 1150 rotor spin off.
i have seen owners not impact the crank nut to fully seat the 83 and up's and have seen them spin but it was operator error.
apples and oranges guy's.
you need a small thread puller for your 83...factory or nothing as the motion pro stuff is junk for a big taper crank.
if you get this far..leave the complete assembly off and install the cover...bump start it and see if the sound is gone..that will tell the tale.
Click to expand...

how to fix the cheapo aftermarket pullers.

picture.php
 
posplayr said:
how to fix the cheapo aftermarket pullers.

picture.php
Click to expand...

my brother took one of my 1st factory puller's to work years ago and tapped it to 1/2" i believe it was because i had wore it out...still have it today(small thread/large taper crank puller).
after the repair i bought another suzuki puller and it's still in the plastic.
when i was really busy i had at least one customer a week coming in with a damaged starter clutch...big and small so i had to make sure i had the tools to fix them up...
it started becoming interesting when i would remove the stator cover to show them the problem and there rotor stayed in the cover with part of the crank still bolted on:eek:
after a loose estimate to repair the engine they would offer to sell me the bike for 100-300 bucks just to be done with it.:D
 
blowerbike said:
my brother took one of my 1st factory puller's to work years ago and tapped it to 1/2" i believe it was because i had wore it out...still have it today(small thread/large taper crank puller).
after the repair i bought another suzuki puller and it's still in the plastic.
when i was really busy i had at least one customer a week coming in with a damaged starter clutch...big and small so i had to make sure i had the tools to fix them up...
it started becoming interesting when i would remove the stator cover to show them the problem and there rotor stayed in the cover with part of the crank still bolted on:eek:
after a loose estimate to repair the engine they would offer to sell me the bike for 100-300 bucks just to be done with it.:D
Click to expand...

In my original post of this thread I neglected to mention that the missed shift happened in 2003. I've had a few other bikes (K100, R12S & S1000RR) since then and it sat in the dark corners of the garage waiting. I sold the S1000 a few weeks ago and rolled out the old Suzuki. I always liked this bike and, in fact, bought a second one for friends to ride. The second one had too many issues and is now a donor bike. I decided to get this one running rather than just give it away. It has a surprising amount of power for such a big heavy bike. I hope it's either the starter clutch or the main clutch. My gut feeling is that it's that long plastic piece the cam chain tensioner pushes on. I sure hope I'm wrong.
 
posplayr said:
A missed shift precipitated the onset of the noise according to the OP. Not likely a wear out problem. Could be starter, but i would pull the clutch cover first.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your help. I did the search thing for the rotor and have a couple calls out to dealers to see if I could rent a puller. APE doesn't carry pullers but gave me a couple ideas and I did find a few on-line. I'll stick the cover back on and check the clutch.
 
rwnielsen said:
Thanks for your help. I did the search thing for the rotor and have a couple calls out to dealers to see if I could rent a puller. APE doesn't carry pullers but gave me a couple ideas and I did find a few on-line. I'll stick the cover back on and check the clutch.
Click to expand...

Do not use any puller other than the style you see and even then the aftermarket ones are likely to break. Use MAP gas and not propane to heat the rotor hub when trying to pull.

I hope you are big and strong as well, I used two 18"+ breakers in a dead lift (foot on one, both arms on the other) to get mine to pop off the first time. After that subsequent removals are much easier.

Use red locktite when you put it back on.
 
posplayr said:
Do not use any puller other than the style you see and even then the aftermarket ones are likely to break. Use MAP gas and not propane to heat the rotor hub when trying to pull.

I hope you are big and strong as well, I used two 18"+ breakers in a dead lift (foot on one, both arms on the other) to get mine to pop off the first time. After that subsequent removals are much easier.

Use red locktite when you put it back on.
Click to expand...

If i can locate a puller I'll follow your advice. MAP gas and red loctite.

Thanks again
Rich
 


I'm attempting to pop off this cover. I tried using the clutch lever and some judicious tapping with a dead blow......secrets?

*never mind*.....got it!
 
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You guys is scaring me. I recently missed a few high-rpm first to second shifts. I'm going to have to start paying more attention.
 
Its the clutch nut. In looking at the manual and knowing a little about how things work, I would have said that nut couldn't loosen up. I'll take it off, clean it and re-flatten the washer. I have the torque spec.
Thanks again for all your help
Rich

PS. I'll get the $30 nut from A.P.E.
 
rwnielsen said:
Its the clutch nut. In looking at the manual and knowing a little about how things work, I would have said that nut couldn't loosen up. I'll take it off, clean it and re-flatten the washer. I have the torque spec.
Thanks again for all your help
Rich

PS. I'll get the $30 nut from A.P.E.
Click to expand...

The material in the threads is soft and when it squishes the hub is now loose without turning.

How are those BST36's


You should also order a mechanical chain adjuster from APE as well.
 
posplayr said:
The material in the threads is soft and when it squishes the hub is now loose without turning.

How are those BST36's


You should also order a mechanical chain adjuster from APE as well.
Click to expand...

I saw the chain adjuster, seems foolproof. The BST36's, if you mean carbs, changed the bike completely. Instant throttle response and it seems more peppy all through the range. All I've done is increase the mid-range jets 2 sizes to get rid of some surging and sync them. EBay, '86 GSXR 1100
 
rwnielsen said:


Found a gasket too. Must be a lucky day
Click to expand...

Hmm, don't know much about the Cometic gaskets, though when I used a non OEM clutch cover gasket it would leak. I replaced it with a OEM gasket and no more leak.
 
I went ahead and ordered the tensioner and gasket along with the clutch nut. I did happen to notice a spark jumping from one of the ignition wires when I went to fire it up this evening. I'll get new wires tomorrow along with some oil to replace what I spilled when I torqued the clutch nut. Actually I'll just change it, I have a new filter. The bike has been ignored for 11 years so it's going to need a little TLC to get back on the road.
Again.....Thanks for all the help and feedback
Rich
 
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