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1150-1229 starter button mod

Carter Turk

Carter Turk

Forum Sage
Charter Member
I was talking with Rapid Ray on the phone about using the starter button to turn over the engine and then hitting the RUN switch to light the thing off. I failed to ask him how to do it.

My starter clutch has chronic snatching problems while initially starting up.

The problem improved with new rollers, pins and springs, but still happens on occasion.

Can anyone describe what color wires need to be fiddled with in the starter button housing on the handlebars?

Thanks for any tips.
 
On my 1100 the starter relay wire (G/Y) goes straight to the clutch safety switch and then the starter button which splits into the kill switch. I would use the starter button just to break the connection to the starter relay by jumping to the open end of the kill switch thus releasing the kill switch from the starter button equation. (Hot side when kill switch is off) I would do this under the tank where the plug connectors are for the right hand handle bar switch.
I'm not entirely sure why you would do this besides the fact Ray knows what he's doing. :-D

I would get a wiring diagram for your bike.
 
I think the solution is to fix the problem rather than jury rigging to get around it. It has to be the starter clutch or the starter and there is a good chance its a faulty solenoid that is cutting in and out intermittently.

Earl
 
starter

starter

Or.... get a nice dyna 2000 ignition with 4 different timing retard modes. use one of those to retard the ignition while cranking. Works real good on a 1500cc 83 GS.
 
I was inquiring about this due to a suggestion from Ray.

I've been in there recently replacing the items mentioned, plus the large gear behind and the roller bearings. The starter always works even when the starter clutch is protesting.

Maybe Ray might chime in.

I have a wiring diagram, but not sure what wires to change around. I have another handlebar switch housing I could try the mod on and just see if the bigger motor prefers this.

Thanks for the replies.
 
Carter, the idea is to be able to get the motor spinning & then turn on the ignition so it will fire INSTANTLY instead of cranking over while it is fighting the ignition. Fighting the ignition firing when it initially starts to spin is what makes them kick back against the starter clutch & break bolts. The guys that run STOCK GSs usually don't have a clue to the issues we have with these motors when we make them bigger. I don't have a wiring diagram in front of me but what you need to do is get a test light & find out which wire coming out of your starter button housing is HOT when the ignition is ON. You then trace this wire back to where it goes into the main harness & splice in a hot wire from the battery so it is no longer switched but always live (DON'T park your bike IN GEAR anymore!). This will enable the starter motor to crank when the ignition switch or kill switch is turned off. To start the bike you push the starter button for 2 seconds & then turn on the key or flip the kill switch to ON, whichever you prefer. The bike will fire almost INSTANTLY & next to never kick back against the starter anymore. I set up ALL of my STREET bikes & my drag bikes this way & have NEVER broken a starter clutch since doing it this way. Call me if you have any issues, Ray.
 
My way will only have the starter button lit when the ignition switch is on. ;-)
 
Yes but you'd also have to have the clutch safety switch bypassed so you don't have to pull the clutch, push the starter button AND hit the kill switch.
Listen to Ray.
 
Wow, Awesome thread! I stumbled across this one a few minutes ago. Sounded good so I thought I'd give it a try. Amazing results. On my bike, a 1980 GS1000G. I just unplugged the connector from the rt. handlebar switch. (located under the coils) In this connector power comes in on the red, goes through the kill switch, to the start button and the coils. This coil pwr wire exits the connector as an O/W wire. So by simply unlocking the pins in the connector (switch side not harness side) I was able to switch the red and O/W wires. Now power is available to the starting button whenever the key is on. The kill switch now only controls the ignition. New start sequence = Key on, push start button 1-2 sec, turn kill on, Success! The best part is no cutting/splicing needed. Also if you leave the kill switch on, the bike still starts normally
 
Jd Powell said:
Wow, Awesome thread! I stumbled across this one a few minutes ago. Sounded good so I thought I'd give it a try. Amazing results. On my bike, a 1980 GS1000G. I just unplugged the connector from the rt. handlebar switch. (located under the coils) In this connector power comes in on the red, goes through the kill switch, to the start button and the coils. This coil pwr wire exits the connector as an O/W wire. So by simply unlocking the pins in the connector (switch side not harness side) I was able to switch the red and O/W wires. Now power is available to the starting button whenever the key is on. The kill switch now only controls the ignition. New start sequence = Key on, push start button 1-2 sec, turn kill on, Success! The best part is no cutting/splicing needed. Also if you leave the kill switch on, the bike still starts normally
Click to expand...
GREAT post JD! Thanks for your response! Ray.
 
Added bonus: I no longer have to disable my ignition to do compression tests! Just crank it over with the kill switch off & holding wide open throttle. I dont even have to remove the gas tank now.:-D And with 40,000 mi on the till I still have 150# in each cylinder.
 
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