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1150 carbs on 1100

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Can't find anything using search. I want to know what jets I should be using for main, pilot & air on my 80 gs1100 that will be using 36 mm carbs off an 1150. The bike has pods & a free flowing pipe but is otherwise stock.

Thanks, Paul
 
Taken from CafeKids posts, and i run the same n it works well for me.

On my 1100Es I ran stage three, 138DJ main (there's a conversion formula to get Mikuni numbers out of them By the way) stock pilots, DJ air jet (150 or 160 I believe) mix screws 3 turns out, needle clip in the 2.5 position from the point (you can shim to a half step, which is what you'll probably have to do to get it perfecto) 36mm 1150 carbs Yosh full race exhaust, ape pods. Ran like a scalded rat... Awesome.
 
Yeah I only changed mine because I had a Yosh race only pipe on it which had massive header diameters. Like almost 2" iirc. They barely fit between the frame tubes. Changing the oil was a bitch. As greg78gs750. He has it now. Oil cooler has to come off etc to get the pipe off to change the oil. Anyway it was back popping through the exhaust, even with my mix screws 4.5 turns out. I didn't want to change the pilot jets because larger pilots made it idle like crap and the bottom end was wet and sloggy, and fuel mileage around town went to hell. So I put smaller air correction jets in. Worked quite well. Nice crisp throttle response from bottom to WFO, and the popping was 95% gone, ocassionaly it would pop once or twice, but that was it. Pulled like a Cummins on PCP.
IMO those 36mm carbs on an 1100E that's otherwise stock are the best bang for the buck mod you can do, and SHOULD have come in the bike in the first place. Really wakes that engine up. With some head work, and your bore kit and some cams that bike would likely need some frame bracing to keep it from balling you up in the hay bales coming out of a corner. ;)

Did you have the head worked on nasty? Limiting factor there...big carbs and big pistons are great, but the head is the bottle neck. If it can't breathe you're not getting the best out of all that money you spent...
 
Katarat said:
Mikuni = 93.75 X dynojet numbers http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64769
Click to expand...

I though it was DJ times .9375?? Maybe I have that back-ards...

No I don't... Someone got their math wrong in there or you misplaced a decimal point.


DJ size times .9375= Mikuni (round up to nearest size.)
Ex. DJ138 x .9375 = 129.3 or a Mikuni 130...
By the formula you show it would be
138 x 93.75 = 13,161.06!!! Don't think they make em that big :p
 
Last edited:
Yeah TCK, your math is correct & as far as the head goes, no work done yet. I do have the great book "Performance Tuning in Theory & Practice" by the master A. Graham Bell.

Cheers, Paul
 
Ok, got 36mm carbs taken apart & cleaned & ready to re-assemble with new jets, etc.
Stock jetting appears to be .114 main, 45 pilot & 115 air jet.
So according to the previous threads I'm going to 130 mains, 160 air jet, leaving the pilot alone & shimming the needle to 2.5

Sound like a good starting point?
 
nastyjones, is that the original tank on your bike? I've been looking for a Harley XLCR tank (very rare and expensive when you find one). Your tank doesn't look too far off. Are the sides flat or rounded? Could you measure some dimensions for me? Thanks!
 
nastyjones said:
Ok, got 36mm carbs taken apart & cleaned & ready to re-assemble with new jets, etc.
Stock jetting appears to be .114 main, 45 pilot & 115 air jet.
So according to the previous threads I'm going to 130 mains, 160 air jet, leaving the pilot alone & shimming the needle to 2.5

Sound like a good starting point?
Click to expand...

TCK- Are we talking about using the stock needles or the DJ stage 3's when using 36mm carbs on my 80 gs1100?
 
Stock 1150 carbs have a 125 pilot air jet.
Get a Dynojet kit.
138 Dynojet main jet
Needle third from bottom
47.5 pilots
This is with K&N pods and an aftermarket 4-1 pipe.
 
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