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UncleMike
Guest
I was thinking more around 4500rpm. My vibrations only really show between 4-5k.
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I was thinking more around 4500rpm. My vibrations only really show between 4-5k.
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CivilRock
Guest
I need more seat time to figure out exactly where the vibration is the worst. 4-5k is very much in line with a lot of the complaints that I found here and on the web.
Do you sync with dial gauges or mercury sticks?
Am I going to suck mercury into the motor at 4500 RPM?
Do you sync with dial gauges or mercury sticks?
Am I going to suck mercury into the motor at 4500 RPM?
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UncleMike
Guest
I use a Carbtune with sticks, but I've previously used a Motionpro with the liquid mercury on at least 5 other GS models, and I've never had it come even close to sucking the mercury in.
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CivilRock
Guest
I'm going to answer my own question. The vacuum is the most when you rev up the engine and shut the throttle. So as long as you don't do that with the sticks hooked up, you should be fine.
I've done this before on a dozen bikes, I just always question myself.
-Kevin
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CivilRock
Guest
When I was adjusting them this morning, at first I turned #4 about a 1/4 turn and the mercury went right to the top of the glass (plastic). I don't think it would be the end of the world if it happened, but I don't really want to run it through the engine.
There's probably less vacuum at 4500 than at 700.
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UncleMike
Guest
Never thought I'd say this, but perhaps I have a more gentle touch than I thought?
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CivilRock
Guest
I started gently, but then I wanted a definite indicator of which way was which... and I got it.
Thanks for your thoughts Mike. I really have less than 400 miles on this motor, and most of that has been accumulated on the 6 mile journey to work.
When you sync at 4500 does the bike get super hot? Are you syncing RS carbs? Did the sync at 4500 help with the vibration?
Sorry about the 20 questions.
Thanks for your thoughts Mike. I really have less than 400 miles on this motor, and most of that has been accumulated on the 6 mile journey to work.
When you sync at 4500 does the bike get super hot? Are you syncing RS carbs? Did the sync at 4500 help with the vibration?
Sorry about the 20 questions.
Man, I must be older school than I thought. I have no issue with the vibes of the 1150. Granted, my carbs are very well synch'd right now, but the bike has never struck me as being vibey.
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UncleMike
Guest
The bike never seems to get super hot, even when riding in 100-degree heat in traffic. As long as I can get some air moving over it, things seem to stay relatively cool. Dropping a fan on there while you sink should do the trick, and it really doesn't take long to sync once you get the hang of it. Setup and teardown is much longer. If you're familiar with your bike/setup, the actually process of syncing with the engine running can be done in about as much time as a traffic light.
Stock carbs here. And syncing where the vibration is worst definitely helps me. I sync up there and then see how it's running at idle. Sometimes there's a bit of compromise here, but I just go with whatever works best for my riding.
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CivilRock
Guest
Hummmm. Not the way I was doing it.
I think I should just take all the caps off and sync them. That would make it quicker.
I'm going to get some seat time and reconsider.
There's got to be some inherent reason the 1150 vibrates more than its predecessor. Suzuki added rubber engine mounts in the front, and those big bar end weights for a reason, eh? And I'm sure every bike is different.
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UncleMike
Guest
Yeah, it's different for the RS carbs. And from what I've read, the some of the 1150 cranks are balanced more precisely than others.
gs11ezrydr
Forum Mentor
End of the world, possibly, think about it liquid metal (mercury) going through your valves,liquid metal does not compress I have always been told and may cause drastic damages, bent valves etc. if ingested into the engine. I have always stayed away from it due to that factor, I was instructed to never rev the engine up and shut it down quickly while connected to the sticks in order to prevent it from being sucked into the engine where catastrophic damage could occur. Always used gauges myself, I was told sticks were more so for 2 stroke snowmobiles etc.. Again just what I have heard can't say from experience.
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