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1150 starter not disengaging

Carter Turk

Carter Turk

Forum Sage
Charter Member
Added photos at end of thread. Trying to fire up the bike for the first time since June. Fresh oil, plugs, rings, piston, left end, starter clutch, used rotor....and the starter or starter clutch is staying engaged.

My Proto torque wrench only goes up to 800 in/lbs, so I heard the click and went further with a 1/2 drive socket. They say max is 126 ft/lbs

on the rotor nut. Which is what?-1512 inch/lbs. New thrust washer against the crank and new copper shim inside the starter clutch. Rather bummed, but I

wasn't expecting it to go smoothly for some reason. I did notice the larger starter clutch gear was turning one way like it's supposed to, but had a fair amount

of resistance. It's been pouring rain, but let up, so plan was go break-in the motor this afternoon. Not gonna happen now.

Any thoughts, advice appreciated, thanks.
 
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My guess is one of the springs popped out when you were fitting the rotor/clutch or the rotor is too far in on the crank taper.
Weird since the rotor had no wear at the taper and the crank end is new.
Did you use the dowel on the rotor? Did it seat all the way?
Are the bolts the correct length and not eating your stator?
 
chef1366 said:
My guess is one of the springs popped out when you were fitting the rotor/clutch or the rotor is too far in on the crank taper.
Weird since the rotor had no wear at the taper and the crank end is new.
Did you use the dowel on the rotor? Did it seat all the way?
Are the bolts the correct length and not eating your stator?
Click to expand...
Chef thanks for responding
All the above was done, however, when I just pulled the rotor off minutes ago, it appears the large starter gear was pressing firmly into the copper shim or whatever you call it in the SC. The dowel was too long at first, but I grinded it down, so that appeared to be seating properly. Actually, I told the mechanic it was riding high in that spot and he ground it down some more. Still not enough maybe???

The copper thrust washer that fits behind the larger starter clutch gear, appears "proud" of the the recess it fits into behind the gear which I think is correct.

It was relatively easy to remove the rotor, compared to previous recent attempts. I was worried that my partially stripped rotor puller was going to damage the

rotor I just bought from you. Eventhough it doesn't appear worn, I wonder if shimming the taper with floss or pop can might help matters?
 
main bearing then thrust washer then one piece needle bearing...correct?
you should not be having these problems.
 
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so you can pull the idler pin and gear and the SC rotates smoothly one way and the other way it locks up tight as to turn the engine when engaged?
 
Pull the rotor/starter clutch assembly back off to look at EVERYTHING before you hurt something that will cost you a LOT of money!! Call me if you need to.
Ray.
 
blowerbike said:
so you can pull the idler pin and gear and the SC rotates smoothly one way and the other way it locks up tight as to turn the engine when engaged?
Click to expand...
Yes... I care to share. Was almost just tempted to bump start it and do my break-in the hard way on a flat road.
 
if you choose that way then do it with the SC and rotor removed.
now tell me...
so you can pull the idler pin and gear and the SC rotates smoothly one way and the other way it locks up tight as to turn the engine when engaged?
 
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Is this a trick question? I thought I tried that when I pulled the rotor for inspection, although the rotor bolt was not on, so the rotor was spinning with the SC.

I'll try again in the AM.
 
very simple...
with your complete assembly installed...all but the idler gear..
will your large SC gear spin one way easily and smoothly and when spinning in the opposite direction does it engage and lock into place(will not turn).
try this several times just to confirm.
this can be checked off the bike but with your continuing problems...they need to be checked on the bike after it is impacted down.
what is causing the binding? that is the question.
 
Maybe not relevant but I have about 60 - 80 thou axial float on the SC ring gear. Wondered if that was normal as the washers either side of the pinion were missing - replaced now. No hijack, just sharing :)
 
Brendan W said:
Maybe not relevant but I have about 60 - 80 thou axial float on the SC ring gear. Wondered if that was normal as the washers either side of the pinion were missing - replaced now. No hijack, just sharing :)
Click to expand...
Years ago I made the mistake of using washers on the idle gear, having previously owned an 80 1100ET, when in fact the 1150 does not require them.

An aside I did not mention yet, is a ring mark on the inside of the rotor, as if the narrowest part of the tapered end is planted firmly against the inside of the rotor. Also, when the rotor nut is tightened, a thread or two is showing out the end, past the nut.
 
Blower, I spun the SC gear with idle gear removed. Turns freely clockwise, locks anti-clockwise. Torqued rotor back on, can still turn the SC gear with big teeth on idle gear. Don't mind all the bare case spots, those are from previous SC woes. Also, I take back the claim of a ring on inside of rotor, it was just some "gook" (Fletch). Here are a few shots


 
Are you running an 1100 starter with an 1100 idler gear? Idler gears are different for the 1150-1100
Does the starter move smoothly?
Terry wants you to turn the idler gear and see if it turns the SC smoothly in one direction. I would remove the starter for this test.
 
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