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1166

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Preparing to install my 1166 kit and have a few questions. What do you use to stabilized the inner pistons while installing the cylinder block? What trick do you use to compress the rings? I'm going to use stock head and cams(for now) K&N pods, 4-1 Kerker pipe. The carbs are absolutely tuned in right now. (Using a Dynojet stage 3) Will I have to rejet for the 1166 mod?
 
That ring compressor will not work, it is too tall. I use big hose clamps like this:


product2.jpg


The clamp in the picture is too small but they make them in various sizes and diameters. The clearance between the bottom of the cylinders and the case top (as you lower the cylinders onto the pistons) is only about 15 cm.

It is a BIG help to have a friend assist you...or else grow a couple of extra hands. The friend can work with two pistons while you lower the cylinder block and handle the other two.

Hap
 
I found a jet size increase of one size was required with the addition of an 1166 bore job.
I used an assistant and two small screwdrivers to fit my pistons to the block, do the inner two first ( watch the tensioner blade as you lower the block, dont ask me how I know:oops: ) to hold the pistons up I used paint stirrers.

Dink
 
Dink said:
I found a jet size increase of one size was required with the addition of an 1166 bore job.
I used an assistant and two small screwdrivers to fit my pistons to the block, do the inner two first ( watch the tensioner blade as you lower the block, dont ask me how I know:oops: ) to hold the pistons up I used paint stirrers.

Dink
Click to expand...

I like the paint stirrer idea...

Hap
 
While you lower the cylinder over the pistons the clamp slips off the rings?
 
chef1366 said:
While you lower the cylinder over the pistons the clamp slips off the rings?
Click to expand...

That's the idea. Sometimes the edge of the clamp will slid up into the cylinder about an 1/8 of an inch but I just take a scribe or small screwdriver and pull it down a little as the cylinder slides over the piston and rings. Take your time and go slow and you will get it done. I have done it by myself with no hose clamps, but you have to be very careful, go slowly, and make sure you don't force anything and snap a ring.

Hap

Crud, now I have 5001 posts...Guess I'll have to stop posting when I get to 10,000 posts.:oops:
 
chef1366 said:
PWhat do you use to stabilized the inner pistons while installing the cylinder block? What trick do you use to compress the rings?
Click to expand...

LOL, we were just talking about this last week. You know, I do this all by hand. I have never owned a ring compressor. I start by bringing up 2&3. I normally use some clean rags wrapped around the skirts. I compress the rings with my fingers. I also use a small wooden dowel that I have a point on one end to help along. It takes me a little time but I don't like the idea of things rubbing against my new parts.
 
chef1366 said:
While you lower the cylinder over the pistons the clamp slips off the rings?
Click to expand...

It's important to slightly loosen the clamps as you lower the block over the rings. It may take a few tries to get the feel of how much to loosen.
 
AaaaaHhhhh a 1166 is a piece of cake :grin: :grin: Try a 82mm piston or bigger with teflon buttons that like to pop out just before the sleeves covers them. Fishing them out below the crank is alot of fun too.

Don't tell Earl but I got a few bent flat tip screwdriver's that work pretty good [-X But normally I just grab a few piece of hard balsa wood out of one of my many RC kits.

Next time I'll try that rag thing Mark was talking about :lol:

Good Luck
 
I've always used some 3" pvc pipe. I cut the pipe into short sections and then cut the sections in half plus some off the ends. Short enough so you can pull whats left between the studs with a wrench. then using two of these c shape looking peices to compress the rings. A hose clamp around it keeps them in place. Keep the pvc slightly loose and greased so they will slide. I do all four pistons on the rods like this. Set the pistons at the same height and slip the block down on top of the piston. The pistons should go into the bore slightly and the sleeves rest on the pvc. Then i hold the crank with a wrench to keep it from spinning. Tap on the top of the block with a hammer using a 2x4 to protect the block. Only go down just enough so the rings are in the sleeves and then remove the hose clamps and c shaped pieces of pvc with pliars. I use rages to keep the pvc from falling into the cases. I used to have a pic, but now can't find it on my new computer.
 
RacingJake said:
Next time I'll try that rag thing Mark was talking about :lol:

Good Luck
Click to expand...

I never said I was high tech when it comes to this engine building stuff. I like Ryans PVC pipe idea. I am thinking I could chuck this into the lathe and bevel it to fit into the sleeve. No metal to metal contact.

Good idea, I'll try this next time.

Hey Jake, did you ever get into the 5's this year?? My goal was to get into the 8's but I just havn't been able to pull it off yet. If I just had one more sunny day, that was on a day the track was open, that was on a day that I had nothing going on .........

The finals start Friday. I may head up tonight. I'll see if I can get some good pictures this time.
 
Not yet Mark, the closes was a 6.0051.

The bad new is I bent a few of my intake valves so I'm going back to the 1100 head for the time being until the 1150 head is fix. The good news is I tapped the runners for the foggers this week on both heads. So who know?? still got about 6 weeks to give it a try.
 
Ah man, if you had bent the exhaust I have a set of good stock ones sitting here I would send you for free.

Cam adjustor nut come loose, timing gear slip or did the guide snap?

Your a lot closer to your goal than I am! Did you try it with the nozzels stuck in the boots? Did they blow out? I told you I had my carbs blown off more than once playing around with that stuff.
 
A few weeks ago I over-rev the motor and I guess the high speed chip didn't kick in for some reason and the motor made that funny clanking noise. Bike still ran OK and last week I was adjusting the exhaust cam and looks like I may of jump a tooth on the crank. Maybe a combination of both. It didn't take much to bend these SS intake valves compared to the oem one's.

It gives me a good reason to send it to Schnitz's for some more upgrades.
 
>It gives me a good reason to send it to Schnitz's for some more upgrades.

I did not know Schnitz actually did any machine work. What all are you going to have them do?
 
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