1977 GS750 Carb Boot Removal

[LA2SD]

Hey Guys -

Looking for some tips on removing the carbs from their respective boots (see pic, circled in green). I searched the forums, and downloaded the link to the carb rebuild guide, but didn't find anything.

I don't want to force anything, and rip the boots. I already loosened the boot clamps (see pic, circled in red), throttle cables, and screw for the throttle stop plate above carb #1.

Any tips?

 

[1978GS750E]

Have you removed the airbox? They should just pull out. Make sure your clamps are very loose.

 

[LA2SD]

Thanks for chiming in. Yes, I removed the airbox, and the clamps are loose enough where I can remove them.

Unless it's my imagination, the boots seem kind of stiff though. I'm also wondering if the previous owner slathered some type of silicon in there. It looks like silicon was used where the boots meet the head.

I guess I'll just keep trying...

 

[chuck hahn]

Heat gun to soften the rubber and a pry bar wedged strategically to get them out. 77,78, and 79 GS 750 and 78 and 79 Gs 1000 intake manifolds are the same. JBM sells new intakes for around 100.00 a set of 4. The silicone was because they were deteriorating and seperating from the flange causing vacuum leaks. You need to replace those intakes. get your carb rebuild orings and intake orings here. Measure the ID of the oring groove in the intakes and order accordingly.

http://cycleorings.com/

Also heres a site youll need to bookmark and on the right side youll scroll down and see the VM CARB REBUILD TUTORIAL. In the service manual menu sellect the 8 valve 750 manual.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

http://jbmindustries.com/RubberFlange.html

 

[LA2SD]

Heat gun to soften the rubber and a pry bar wedged strategically to get them out. 77,78, and 79 GS 750 and 78 and 79 Gs 1000 intake manifolds are the same. JBM sells new intakes for around 100.00 a set of 4. The silicone was because they were deteriorating and seperating from the flange causing vacuum leaks. You need to replace those intakes. get your carb rebuild orings and intake orings here. Measure the ID of the oring groove in the intakes and order accordingly.

http://cycleorings.com/

Also heres a site youll need to bookmark and on the right side youll scroll down and see the VM CARB REBUILD TUTORIAL. In the service manual menu sellect the 8 valve 750 manual.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

http://jbmindustries.com/RubberFlange.html

Thank you! I'll have a chance to wrench on my bike tomorrow, and try it out. The carbs look really clean inside. Hopefully I can just replace the orings, and not have to soak them in a carb cleaner, which was the original plan. But I priced a bucket of carb cleaner at pep boys, and it was like $40 bucks. I don't remember it being that expensive a few years ago...

 

[ukjules]

Agree totally on the heat gun / hair dryer method to make
the boots flexible !! Essential.
If stuck on try some penetrating oil .

Also on my GS550 the putting the boots back is a
nightmare -

One tip is a bent coat hanger to carefully
allow to pull the remaining boot section over
the bodies.

I am too poor for soaking in carb cleaner ...
and unltrasonic cleaning .... and I
remove all the bits from the carbs ( still
connected in a bank of 4) and simmer in a
solution if water and lemon juice for 30 minutes.
Clean the jets properly and blow out bodies etc.

This has worked faultlessly for me on 3 recons
from terrible gunge to working perfectly.
I do this as like to test if far cheaper ways work.

 

[chuck hahn]

Save yourself the repeat of removing them again once you see it runs like schitts because you didnt do a full tear down and soaking the first time. Tear them down and follow the tutorial and youll be very glad you did so. Doing it right the first time saves a lot of grief down the road for you.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/vm_carb_rebuild.pdf

 

[Redman]

The more difficult part will be removing the boot screws from the engine when you replace the boots (which you should)... and o-rings (most definatly).
And do get the o-rings kit and the screw kit from cycle o-ring (a fine member here).

 

[LA2SD]

The more difficult part will be removing the boot screws from the engine when you replace the boots (which you should)... and o-rings (most definatly).
And do get the o-rings kit and the screw kit from cycle o-ring (a fine member here).

Geez. Hadn't realized how long it's been since my last post. Life kind of happened. But, I finally got the carbs off. Thanks for all the tips. Used a combination of a heat gun and a ball joint remover to wedge them off. And yes, the boot screws were a real pain! I still have to remove the 2 lower screws on the #1 and #4 boots at this point. Just kind of waiting for liquid wrench to work it's magic.

 

[LA2SD]

Here are the boots. Them seem like they're in okay condition. What do you guys think? I can only post 1 pic at a time...

 

[LA2SD]

And another...

 

[LA2SD]

Last one...

 

[Steve]

Let's just say that you will need to remove them to replace the o-rings behind them, anyway, why not just replace them?

They really should be replaced every 25-30 years, it appears that yours have not been done yet. :-\\\

And when you hold the carbs up to the new boots, it will almost seem like the get sucked into place, they go in that easily.

.

 

[LA2SD]

You're right...some things just aren't worth skimping on. Especially if it makes working on this puppy easier. I might even spend a bit extra and use the NOS stuff.

 

[chuck hahn]

GS1000 ones at top left...same as the 750s.

http://jbmindustries.com/RubberFlange.html

 

[Redman]

And another...

View attachment 53257

Ew, looks about like what I saw the first time I took off such. (although did not have the extra sealant in there).

I had heard people mention the orings and I saw them on the microfish, but it took me a while to notice the orings on my boots... beacuse they did not at all look like orings, just looked like a darker area of the boot, somewaht like yours. THat darker area there is what used to be a rubber oring, yah. And that is why someone had to add the sealant.

Do find the Cycle O-Ring web site (a fine GSR member providing us that service) . ANd get a set of replacement screws from him also.

ALso concider replacing the boots.
THose may crack on reinstall(if they aren't already).
Will be expensive, like, 35-40 bucks each.
And with fresh boots the install and any subsequent carb removal will be so much easier.

.

 

[LA2SD]

GS1000 ones at top left...same as the 750s.

http://jbmindustries.com/RubberFlange.html

Thanks, they look almost identical to the originals. How have yours held up?

 

[LA2SD]

Ew, looks about like what I saw the first time I took off such. (although did not have the extra sealant in there).

I had heard people mention the orings and I saw them on the microfish, but it took me a while to notice the orings on my boots... beacuse they did not at all look like orings, just looked like a darker area of the boot, somewaht like yours. THat darker area there is what used to be a rubber oring, yah. And that is why someone had to add the sealant.

Do find the Cycle O-Ring web site (a fine GSR member providing us that service) . ANd get a set of replacement screws from him also.

ALso concider replacing the boots.
THose may crack on reinstall(if they aren't already).
Will be expensive, like, 35-40 bucks each.
And with fresh boots the install and any subsequent carb removal will be so much easier.

.

That's exactly what I thought when I pulled 'em off...I was trying to figure out where the o-rings went There seems to be a consensus among you gents that replacing the boots is the best move. So yeah, I'm going to replace 'em. I definitely want a nice seal, and not have to pry those carbs off again if I can help it.

 

[Redman]

........... So yeah, I'm going to replace 'em. ............

You will be surprized at how much easier it will be to install and/or remove the carbs. And most likley engine run better too.

.

 

[hannibal]

Definitely recommend dipping the carbs and following the tutorial. I had to clean my carbs twice before they were ready to go. The first time I dipped for 24 hrs and still had issues. I think I dipped 36 to 48 hours the second time and finished with carb cleaner and a can of air.

I would certainly suggest a minimum of 36 hours in the dip if the carbs/bike are new to you.