If you reuse any of the crash bar bolts be cautious, as they may be a bit to long without the crash bars in place and bust/poke a hole in the cases. Thanks for the pictures and welcome!
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If you reuse any of the crash bar bolts be cautious, as they may be a bit to long without the crash bars in place and bust/poke a hole in the cases. Thanks for the pictures and welcome!
J
jibledso
Guest
pretty clean eh?
J
jibledso
Guest
The only carb that had much residue was number 4, funny enough the plug was kind of blackish lookingThanks for the advice Charlie, I actually noticed where someone almost drilled into the case when putting in the crash bar. I have no plans on re-installing them.
J
jibledso
Guest
Also, the mains are 105
gwyon
Forum Apprentice
If you're thinking about major rewiring, here is a link to some color wiring diagrams that one member kindly made and shared.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?193730-Colored-wiring-diagrams
There is a diagram for the '78 750 which should be the same as your '77 (separate regulator and rectifier, one fuse protecting the whole bike). And there is also a diagram for the 750 that includes lots of wiring mods. I made a new harness for my bike, and I used the coil relay mod and the headlight relay mod, and I think I did the horn relay too. With each relay I included a fuse, so now I have more than one circuit.
If you're thinking about sourcing carb parts, I think Jets R Us is widely respected. If your jets are different than stock, it may be because of the 4 into 1 exhaust. But I know nothing about re-jetting.
Enjoying your thread.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?193730-Colored-wiring-diagrams
There is a diagram for the '78 750 which should be the same as your '77 (separate regulator and rectifier, one fuse protecting the whole bike). And there is also a diagram for the 750 that includes lots of wiring mods. I made a new harness for my bike, and I used the coil relay mod and the headlight relay mod, and I think I did the horn relay too. With each relay I included a fuse, so now I have more than one circuit.
If you're thinking about sourcing carb parts, I think Jets R Us is widely respected. If your jets are different than stock, it may be because of the 4 into 1 exhaust. But I know nothing about re-jetting.
Enjoying your thread.
J
jibledso
Guest
Yeah, that's a great link. I haven't gotten too much into it yet. Would you recommend taking off the entire harness to check, lube, and change? Or just do it on the bike? I remember the guy I bought it from did something with the rectifier, maybe buy a new one? I'll text and ask him again. I was reading a previous thread where one member said a polaris rectifier worked well but maybe it was for later bikes?
I re-jetted my GSF 1200, but was a very easy kit to put in, it had really nice tapered needles that worked very well. I was going to ask or find a thread about tapered needles if they do exist for the older VM carbs. I'm sure someone else has put a factory replacement K&N filter with a 4-1 so just gotta find that thread and see what works well.
Thanks! I'm enjoying this too, it's great motivation.
I re-jetted my GSF 1200, but was a very easy kit to put in, it had really nice tapered needles that worked very well. I was going to ask or find a thread about tapered needles if they do exist for the older VM carbs. I'm sure someone else has put a factory replacement K&N filter with a 4-1 so just gotta find that thread and see what works well.
Thanks! I'm enjoying this too, it's great motivation.
Great refurb project, well documented!
gwyon
Forum Apprentice
I'm new to motorcycles, so I don't consider myself experienced enough to recommend anything yet. My main harness was cut up, brittle, and nasty. While I had the tank, seat, carbs, and air box off, I made a new harness right on the bike. I had zero faith in my ability to do it, so I used cheap wire and relays from AutoZone. But it works perfectly, so I'm thinking of doing it over with mil-spec wire, mini relays, and Weather Pack connectors.
The Polaris SH775 is the reg/rec most people use. I've got one on my bike. There is a thread here, somewhere, that will advise you where to find it at the cheapest price. Or you can find used ones on ebay. Beware of imitations though.
The Polaris SH775 is the reg/rec most people use. I've got one on my bike. There is a thread here, somewhere, that will advise you where to find it at the cheapest price. Or you can find used ones on ebay. Beware of imitations though.
4:30 am, wow. You've got the new bike infatuation I suppose. I had a real hard time relaxing and trying to sleep with thoughts of all the things I needed to do to get my bike on the road. Fortunately that passed, or maybe I ran short on things to worry about, hmmmm.
Z
Zagg
Guest
Carbs look good! I would probably do new bowl gaskets and at least pull some of the o-rings for inspection while you are in there. May be of benefit just to get a look at the condition of things.
Z
Zagg
Guest
The sleepless nights and days filled with motorcycle fantasies will pass enough that you can lead a (mostly) normal life. Now that I have some disposable income to put into the bike I am back to obsessing about it, but it ebbs and flows just like everything in life.
J
jibledso
Guest
I'm definitely going to get an order of new o-rings from the forum's favorite place. Maybe some boots too? Mainly because the bike idled higher when it was warmer and I think I read this was common if there was an air leak.
The float bowls never leaked when I rode it, actually no fuel part was leaking. I've scraped old float bowl gaskets before I don't feel like I need to in this situation. Like I said before if I had easy access to harsh, well typical carb chemicals in the U.S. I'd do a complete dip and re-build of the carbs. I never once completely rebuilt the CV carbs on my 2002 bandit, if it set for a month or two I'd just take the carbs off and take all the little pieces in the float bowl, spray, put them back in, put the carbs on and it would always start back up. My rational right now is a running bike is a running bike.
I guess I should of been more clear with my work lifestyle, I work in a bar/restaurant that closes at 2 am, so it's not uncommon for me to be up till 4 am. But, yes since getting this bike indoors has motivated me. I just read Cliff's page and it's reassured me with the things I need to do regarding the airbox and adjusting the valves. I've adjusted SOHC bikes, but never a DOHC, and I have heard guys complaining about the shims, but after reading his file I feel good about doing it right.
The only real pain with this project is access to parts, and having to wait on them, don't take for granted the access you have to old GS parts living in the U.S.
The float bowls never leaked when I rode it, actually no fuel part was leaking. I've scraped old float bowl gaskets before I don't feel like I need to in this situation. Like I said before if I had easy access to harsh, well typical carb chemicals in the U.S. I'd do a complete dip and re-build of the carbs. I never once completely rebuilt the CV carbs on my 2002 bandit, if it set for a month or two I'd just take the carbs off and take all the little pieces in the float bowl, spray, put them back in, put the carbs on and it would always start back up. My rational right now is a running bike is a running bike.
I guess I should of been more clear with my work lifestyle, I work in a bar/restaurant that closes at 2 am, so it's not uncommon for me to be up till 4 am. But, yes since getting this bike indoors has motivated me. I just read Cliff's page and it's reassured me with the things I need to do regarding the airbox and adjusting the valves. I've adjusted SOHC bikes, but never a DOHC, and I have heard guys complaining about the shims, but after reading his file I feel good about doing it right.
The only real pain with this project is access to parts, and having to wait on them, don't take for granted the access you have to old GS parts living in the U.S.
Keep in mind, that many of us are more than willing to help you find things you may need. The world is a much smaller place than once it was.
J
jibledso
Guest
Thanks, I appreciate it.
J
jibledso
Guest
I just called the old Swedish guy, Clutch Lever Assembly #'s correlated with him, cost 700 kroner, that's $76, so more than half the price of U.S. 
J
jibledso
Guest
I found this in a box of parts that came with my 750. It's identical to the perch on my bike, so it should fit yours. Pretty mugly though. The bolts and cable adjuster are rusty. Yours free if you want it.
Looks like the right one, I still have no idea what the perch came off of that is on it. I ordered one here in Sweden already, it was over half as much for one in the U.S., but yes in the future it will be a good idea to figure out how much shipping cost here. I really appreciate your offer, thanks!
J
jibledso
Guest
Well, the sun is finally showing it's face here in Sweden, and even though it's still cold for U.S. standards I've been trying to get back into the GS750e and get it out of the basement bike room at our apartment.
Sorry for such a long delay in post, but like most of us I've just been working a lot.
I dropped some serious money yesterday after realizing I had several small holes in my header and exhaust. When the bike was running it was loud, but not so much that would make me think I had holes in the exhaust, it just sounded mean. So, I bought a Vance and Hines complete exhaust, it's basically the only one I can get here.
Also, I ordered new o-rings for the the intake runners, bolts that hold the runners, and new air intake box tubes, the ones that go on the back side of the carbs. I know everyone recommends getting the intake o-rings from a specific place, but time and distance is really constraining me, so I bought OEM o-rings, I'm I going to seriously regret this later?
Also, my battery is completely dead, you can barely see the neutral light. I was kick starting it when I was riding it last and it was very easy to start. If my battery is dead does this make it impossible to get a spark to start the bike? I was spraying starting fluid and getting nothing, the carbs are fine and should really matter with the starting fluid, it just doesn't have any spark. I didn't do the lights off test to see if there is a spark.
I'll get some pictures of all the new stuff when it arrives, I think it's going to a couple of weeks for the exhaust to reach here from the states.
Sorry for such a long delay in post, but like most of us I've just been working a lot.
I dropped some serious money yesterday after realizing I had several small holes in my header and exhaust. When the bike was running it was loud, but not so much that would make me think I had holes in the exhaust, it just sounded mean. So, I bought a Vance and Hines complete exhaust, it's basically the only one I can get here.
Also, I ordered new o-rings for the the intake runners, bolts that hold the runners, and new air intake box tubes, the ones that go on the back side of the carbs. I know everyone recommends getting the intake o-rings from a specific place, but time and distance is really constraining me, so I bought OEM o-rings, I'm I going to seriously regret this later?
Also, my battery is completely dead, you can barely see the neutral light. I was kick starting it when I was riding it last and it was very easy to start. If my battery is dead does this make it impossible to get a spark to start the bike? I was spraying starting fluid and getting nothing, the carbs are fine and should really matter with the starting fluid, it just doesn't have any spark. I didn't do the lights off test to see if there is a spark.
I'll get some pictures of all the new stuff when it arrives, I think it's going to a couple of weeks for the exhaust to reach here from the states.
J
jibledso
Guest
Welp, got my head lamp on and layed on my side, turns out one of the exhaust screws is broke off in the head but it looks like the break is past the flange if that makes sense. Luckly I bought a "very, very, nice German Impact" according to the old Swedish guy who sales parts to me over the phone.
Got the new clutch cable hooked up and working, finally, after getting a collection of other clutch handles.
Bought a new Gel-battery, the guy at Biltema just said "it's better" and it was only $10 more than a normal battery. Once I get everything together I can test the stator. I got some electric grease from the old Suzuki guy, so I'm waiting for that in the mail with the other parts.
The bike started up with some starting fluid, so I tired putting the air box back on and for all that was in me I could not get the airbox tubes onto the end of the carburetors, it's like once you take them off you can never get them back on? I'm assuming they're so old and not flexible, and if they move a little in a rotating direction they can never align with the carburetors again. Those along with intake runners and O-rings are on their way, including new hardware. It just stinks because if I could get the airbox on I could at least take it out for a ride, it was such a nice day.
Also, I did some serious sanding, priming and painting. I bought a rattle can of the closest thing that looks like the red 77' color. I tried cleaning the engine with some engine cleaner, but the Swedish idea of "harsh" engine cleaner is pretty lame. I'm probably going to get the 77' red reproduction decal kit to make it look as original as possible, and get some side badges since whoever else had this bike just tossed them. It's kind of like the bike was bought brand new, then someone saw a 83' GS1100 and wanted that burgundy color, and they painted the chrome fender that way too. If I can get the engine to clean up, and the new vance and hines pipe should be coming I think I should buy an original chrome fender.
but it looks like the break is past the flange if that makes sense. Luckly I bought a "very, very, nice German Impact" according to the old Swedish guy who sales parts to me over the phone.Got the new clutch cable hooked up and working, finally, after getting a collection of other clutch handles.
Bought a new Gel-battery, the guy at Biltema just said "it's better" and it was only $10 more than a normal battery. Once I get everything together I can test the stator. I got some electric grease from the old Suzuki guy, so I'm waiting for that in the mail with the other parts.
The bike started up with some starting fluid, so I tired putting the air box back on and for all that was in me I could not get the airbox tubes onto the end of the carburetors, it's like once you take them off you can never get them back on? I'm assuming they're so old and not flexible, and if they move a little in a rotating direction they can never align with the carburetors again. Those along with intake runners and O-rings are on their way, including new hardware. It just stinks because if I could get the airbox on I could at least take it out for a ride, it was such a nice day.
Also, I did some serious sanding, priming and painting. I bought a rattle can of the closest thing that looks like the red 77' color. I tried cleaning the engine with some engine cleaner, but the Swedish idea of "harsh" engine cleaner is pretty lame. I'm probably going to get the 77' red reproduction decal kit to make it look as original as possible, and get some side badges since whoever else had this bike just tossed them. It's kind of like the bike was bought brand new, then someone saw a 83' GS1100 and wanted that burgundy color, and they painted the chrome fender that way too. If I can get the engine to clean up, and the new vance and hines pipe should be coming I think I should buy an original chrome fender.
J
jibledso
Guest
So, what do you guys think? It's actually pretty close to the 77' red color. I'm not really a fan, after looking at it I realized that having 78' wheels doesn't really go well together, and the color just makes everything else look dirty.
