1978 GS 1000 - Video Tech Support Request

[SandPVRR]

Perhaps the oil level is too high so you couldn't see the level in the sightglass? Adding 2 qts to it would have allowed you to see the level at some point unless it was over the sightglass.

Just after I did an oil change - the oil was in the sight glass and was a light brown color (through the glass) and was right next to the F line.
140 miles later - the color is gone and even after putting two quarts in - it hasn't come back.
Here is the weird part - If I was burning that much oil - you'd think I'd be putting out a smokescreen - but although its hard to keep my eyes backward and still ride forward, I haven't seen any noticable oil slick, neither have I observed any major oil slick below the bike. I did just put down cardboard last night and have yet to check it.
-Joey

 

[Eli69]

whatever you have to do to get that bike running will be worth it. i went through all that stuff you've described on mine. it did take time though. since i got my first gs i've brought 5 more gs's back from the dead. it gets easier every time.

that bike's 33 years old. possibly older than you. it's basically an antique. but it's also as sturdy as an old john deere. problem is probably more than just one thing though.

i also think you might have too much oil in it now.

good luck , you'll get it.


jeez, it's snowing again wtf?

 

[rustybronco]

Here is the weird part - If I was burning that much oil - you'd think I'd be putting out a smokescreen -

You would.

 

[Nessism]

The GS1000 takes roughly four quarts of oil when changing the filter. To check the oil on a GS the bike needs to be on a level surface, the engine cool, and the bike on the centerstand. You start up the engine and let it run for a min. or so then shut down. The level should be checked after one min. more. The exact times are not critical but the point is for the oil to be cool, and the bike on the centerstand.

It would be unprecedented for a bike to burn two quarts of oil in 140 miles. I seriously doubt the bike would run in a condition like this; there would be a massive blue cloud of smoke behind the bike all the time and the plugs would foul very quickly.

 

[SandPVRR]

The GS1000 takes roughly four quarts of oil when changing the filter. To check the oil on a GS the bike needs to be on a level surface, the engine cool, and the bike on the centerstand. You start up the engine and let it run for a min. or so then shut down. The level should be checked after one min. more. The exact times are not critical but the point is for the oil to be cool, and the bike on the centerstand.

It would be unprecedented for a bike to burn two quarts of oil in 140 miles. I seriously doubt the bike would run in a condition like this; there would be a massive blue cloud of smoke behind the bike all the time and the plugs would foul very quickly.

Ed,
That would explain the black spark plugs wouldn't it though?
I do get a blue cloud out the exhaust when its cold - but - it clears up and there is no constant blue cloud that I can see. I'm checking for leaks and such now.
Heres the thing - the bike is older than me - as a matter of fact I've never owned a motorcycle that was younger than I am. I put a 1982 Honda Nighthawk (450) into my Dad's shed in 2005 - In 2010 I got the bike bug again and brought it out. I put a new battery into it, changed the oil and filter and put 5,000 miles on it last year. What I can't wrap my head around is why this bike, slightly older, more miles, but ridden as recently as June 2010 is now having all these problems. It didn't sit very long - 10 months before I rode it home - and now its chewing through oil like you wouldn't believe.
I think its obvious where my frustration is coming from.
-Joey

 

[rustybronco]

Ed,
That would explain the black spark plugs wouldn't it though?

I think its obvious where my frustration is coming from.
-Joey

Black plugs usually indicate excess fuel. oily black plugs is oil fouled. what does the oil in the crankcase smell like?

drain the oil, pour it into a gallon jug and measure the amount of oil.

 

[niclpnut]

I used to have a 78 honda civic that would literally go through 1-1.5 quarts of oil after 50 miles or so.

Needless to say, cars that followed me were covered in oil

If you were using that much oil, I'd expect you to be getting the finger quite often.

 

[SandPVRR]

Ok so I'm an idiot.
Or at least I did something stupid.
Long story made short - the bike is not losing oil. It is now overfull - I will be draining out the entire crankcase and refilling.
Project this weekend is to drain the tank - pull the tank off -
clean the entire petcock assembly - replace the fuel line and install
an inline fuel filter in the progress. Then we'll see where we're at.
-Joey

 

[rustybronco]

Ok so I'm an idiot.
Or at least I did something stupid.
Long story made short - the bike is not losing oil. It is now overfull - I will be draining out the entire crankcase and refilling.
Project this weekend is to drain the tank - pull the tank off -
clean the entire petcock assembly - replace the fuel line and install
an inline fuel filter in the progress. Then we'll see where we're at.
-Joey

Figured you over filled it. do yourself a favor and pull those carbs while your at it.

 

[niclpnut]

You don't really need the filter. The petcock has a screen.

As long as the tank is clean, you are fine.


The filter can sometimes actually inhibit flow and cause additional problems.

 

[SandPVRR]

Well thats precisely the reason I'm putting in a filter - the tank isn't clean. The previous owner let the inside of the tank get some rust and I'm convinced this is part of my carb problem - it isn't the carbs - its probably a plugged up petcock (screen and all) or some loose piece of junk that got sucked into the carbs. I'll know more when I've got it torn down.
-Joey

 

[Guest]

Well thats precisely the reason I'm putting in a filter - the tank isn't clean. The previous owner let the inside of the tank get some rust and I'm convinced this is part of my carb problem - it isn't the carbs - its probably a plugged up petcock (screen and all) or some loose piece of junk that got sucked into the carbs. I'll know more when I've got it torn down.
-Joey

Welcome back! That is a really nice Skunk you got there, very desirable
bike to have, appears to be in great condition.
Your petcock has a two tier upright tubular screen, several inches long that plugs into the bottom of the petcock , once you see it, you'll understand why it would be hard for it to get plugged and why you don't need an in-line filter. If you take that petcock apart, pay close attention to the little hole on the diaphram, the diaphram block, and the hole where it mates to the outside of the petcock, all those have to line up. I wouldn't tear your petcock apart unless you have to, they can be really frustrating to get working. Just check it to make sure that it has good flow and doesn't leak internally or externally. It should have good flow in the "Pri" position (gravity flow without vacuum), and in Reserve when vacuum is applied to the vacuum line, and if you have more than a reserve's amount of gas in your tank, good flow in On when vacuum is applied. No fuel should flow from your petcock in the reserve or on position without vacuum applied.

Here's a pic of a '78 GS1000 petcock on E-bay (watch someone here buy this!)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150593892147&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

 

[SandPVRR]

It should have good flow in the "Pri" position (gravity flow without vacuum), and in Reserve when vacuum is applied to the vacuum line, and if you have more than a reserve's amount of gas in your tank, good flow in On when vacuum is applied. No fuel should flow from your petcock in the reserve or on position without vacuum applied.

Ed - can you give me an idea of what 'Good Flow' should be out of the petcock - I pulled the drain plugs out of the carbs to flush them - and the gas flow seemed a bit weak to me.
Currently when I have the bike up to highway speeds it does not want to accelerate - its like its fuel starved - hence why I ask. It could easily be an ignition issue as well - I plan to rip out the points and replace with electronic ignition at some point.
-Joey

 

[Guest]

Ed - can you give me an idea of what 'Good Flow' should be out of the petcock - I pulled the drain plugs out of the carbs to flush them - and the gas flow seemed a bit weak to me.
Currently when I have the bike up to highway speeds it does not want to accelerate - its like its fuel starved - hence why I ask. It could easily be an ignition issue as well - I plan to rip out the points and replace with electronic ignition at some point.
-Joey

Properly clean the carbs.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

My tank used to look like this:

I cleaned it and now it looks like this:

I don't use an inline fuel filter.

I also repaired my air intake system, cleaned my carbs, adjusted my valves, sync'd my carbs, repaired my charging system issues (click HEREand HERE), and lots of other fun stuff like new stainless steel brake lines, rebuilt calipers, installed Progressive fork springs, etc. My bike starts instantly with the touch of a button. It's all there on my little website.

I would encourage you to do all of the necessary maintenance items up front, and do them correctly. Don't be in a hurry to put a band-aid on it just so you can ride it. It will only continue your frustration. Get a new petcock. CLICK HERE to see the recommended maintenance lists.

To quote an unknown GS philosopher, "Yours is a story that has been repeated in these hallowed annuls countless times. New owners of vintage motorcycle machinery all experience many, very similar, seemingly mystical conundrums trying to enjoy their newfound mechanical Pegasus. At first they will dance, they will chant, toss beads, smoke pipes, and curse. After these efforts have failed they will resign themselves to actual, proven, time-tested repair procedures that have been performed on these classic steeds for decades. I am here to point you down the path of enlightenment. Any shortcuts from the path of enlightenment will leave you stranded on the side of the road of life. When you can snatch the valve shim from my hand, you will then be free to soar through this existence on your Suzuki GS. Now, gather up thy tools, gird thy loins, and steel thyself for copious amounts of GS knowledge."


Thank you for your induklgence,

BassCliff

 

[Guest]

He won't listen. Good luck.

If he'd done it when this thread first started he'd be riding a good running bike right now. As it is he's gonna do some damage if he keeps avoiding it.

 

[Big T]

If he'd done it when this thread first started he'd be riding a good running bike right now. As it is he's gonna do some damage if he keeps avoiding it.

Yep. go back a week and look at post #2

 

[Guest]

Yep. go back a week and look at post #2

Heh, this one?

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/GSR_Greeting.html

 

[Guest]

Hi, Try part# 18-4358 at Z-1 for GS1000 petcock.

OK, I tried, think I've stumbled on this previously, says it's for the GS1000GLX/SZ models.

 

[SandPVRR]

Hello All,
Guess what. I have a sweet running GS-1000.
You know what? I owe it to this forum - specifically sedelen - for mentioning the screen on the petcock, prior to me tearing it apart.
Heres what I think happened - the previous owner had an inline filter installed the last time he had the bike serviced, and forgot that he did it. (His comment to me was 'I was gonna get one put on there, but I never got around to it')
I rode it over to my Dad's house (who had a 1981 1000L and has been doing his own bike maintenance since his first bike in the 60s) and we started really looking at the fuel system. Dad spotted it first - there was an inline filter already in the system. We pulled the tank off - replaced the entire fuel line and removed the filter - the filter was either clear or very very close to it. Proving the theory that if it gets through the filter in the tank, its not going to get stopped by anything else.
A new fuel line and a few frustrated words later (I'm sure I don't have to tell anyone how hard it is to work a clip hose clamp with needle nose pliers through one of two access points in the frame, dodging vacuum lines) we were ready to put the tank back on.
Before we did - Dad figured it was a good time to pull the petcock and have a peak at it. I ran the bike over on reserve - no draining required by the time I got over there. Pulled the petcock out, blew it out with compressed air, checked for clear, unbroken screens and reinstalled. New washers and gaskets later, we reinstalled the tank, all the lines, and gave her a test fire.
WOW - what a difference - fired right up - idled much higher than it had been even with the choke on - ran much better immediately.
We shut it back down and she spent the night at my Dad's. (It was a rain / snow mix when we finished - Spring in Maine!) I went back over today to ride it home and took it for a 30 mile test ride instead
Long story made very short - she has more power - idling better - still hitching a bit when I roll onto it, but I think that has more to do with the carb cleaner I have in the tank. Once I get that through it, I think it'll be fine.
I should mention, as I admitted to overfilling the oil by two quarts (whoops) I dropped the oil upon arrival at my Dad's place and replaced with Shell Rotella T - 10w40. I was a little concerned that the bottle doesn't specifically mention being JASO / MA certified, but, thusfar things seem to be fine.
Overall - things are good - I'll be taking it to work tomorrow - we'll see how she does!
-Joey