Wow, you're a young fella
. Which is cool. Nice to see people from the digital age playing in an analog realm.....
. Which is cool. Nice to see people from the digital age playing in an analog realm.....
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1
1978
Guest
Haha yes sir, 18 years old. I absolutely appreciate mechanical excellence 
eil
Forum Sage
To get the carbs clean on the inside, follow this guide: http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/vm_carb_rebuild.pdf Carb spray is good, carb dip that comes in a 1-gallon pail (Barrymans, I think it's called?) is better.
To get the carbs clean on the outside: Cleaning solution and a good stiff plastic bristle brush! Re the blasting route... people have done it but myself, I would be worried about getting media stuck in the little tiny passages inside the carb bodies. Not sure I would worry about carb costmetics at this point anyway given the state of the rest of the bike.
Buy your carb rebuild kit here: http://cycleorings.com/ Maybe float bowl gaskets if yours are torn or otherwise damaged. If they are not, reuse the old ones.
To get the carbs clean on the outside: Cleaning solution and a good stiff plastic bristle brush! Re the blasting route... people have done it but myself, I would be worried about getting media stuck in the little tiny passages inside the carb bodies. Not sure I would worry about carb costmetics at this point anyway given the state of the rest of the bike.
Buy your carb rebuild kit here: http://cycleorings.com/ Maybe float bowl gaskets if yours are torn or otherwise damaged. If they are not, reuse the old ones.
18 years old and appreciating the GS line....excellent!
Good luck with the resto.
Good luck with the resto.
8
81GS850
Guest
Ok very first... Adjust the valves. Can't get the bike running correctly without this done first. Buy the tool to remove the shims. It's worth it. Look up the shim club for this site when you need new shim sizes. Also search bikecliff on google and click first link for plenty of rebuild tutorials. Be careful with this bike, it could easily turn upside down. Get it running as cheap as possible to figure if it's mechanically sound and worth the money. Watch out for electrical issues. Good luck.
1
1978
Guest
Update -- Valves, carbs, starter?!?
Update -- Valves, carbs, starter?!?
Okay well looks like it's about time for another update!
I'm home from school until the 21st so I have some time to work on the bike. Guys! The carbs are just about ready!!!! I followed eil's advice and bought a 3/4 gallon bucket of Berryman's Chem Dip. Best $23 I have spent so far, for everything cleaned up looking like the "new" carb I posted a pic of a while back. I let the carb bodies soak for 24 hrs as well as the brass parts. They honestly look almost good as new.
Since I've been home, I bought new main jets (currently running 110s for open pipes and pod filters), a new #3 carb body (old one was broke), 42mm pod filters, all new rubber, gaskets, and stainless screws. All the parts came in as I was writing this so I put them all together and put them on the bike!
Hahaha just realized that a few months ago I posted asking if a DJ kit was suitable. Well, everyone learns! Don't worry I did PLENTY of research! Bought the jets the proper way and fiddling about with the needle and all (got it one notch up from center as of now).
Speaking of open pipes, here's a shot of the 4-into-1 with the baffle removed:
I also took off the points cover and valve cover so I could begin to adjust the valves. Honestly I think it was a mistake to do it this early. I know the bike has fair compression because I was already able to get it to start. The problem is that four bolts on the valve cover broke off in the cylinder head of the engine. It's going to be a royal pain to extract those screws without a good bit of disassembly (removing the cams and such). I checked the clearances and they are all more or less within tolerances. What I am going to do for now is put a new gasket on and tighten the valve cover as much as I can, just so I can get the carbs on and balanced. While I'm doing that I'll buy a new thickness gauge and get ready to remove the cylinder head section.
By the way, once I get the cylinder head off, anyone know how to clean this thing??? The whole engine has tons of white residue and stuff on it from years of sitting and it's between the fins. Not really sure where to start to be honest. Is it safe to bolt it all together and sand blast it? Should I take the whole engine apart and clean each section piece by piece? I also have some Simple Green around. Let me know what you think.
If you remember early on, I replaced the spark plugs. This did a bit to help, but the spark is still not as bright and white as it could be. That said, I'm going to spend on the electronic ignition and new coils. Hopefully that'll reclaim a bit of power, but that's a long ways away after this engine gets cleaned up...
Last thing (actually first thing I did when I got home) was I stripped down the brakes. Nothing special to show. I don't think a rebuild is worth it when I can just as easily upgrade to beefier GS1100 or nice new Brembo's. Got the parts here if anyone's looking to buy. I'll post photos in my next post.
OOOOkay. So tonight I just buttoned the carburetors back onto the bike. Closed up the valve cover for testing. Here's the problem, when I try to start the bike, the starter solenoid goes "Bzzzzz, Click!" and the nothing happens. Anybody have some insight on this?
Update -- Valves, carbs, starter?!?
Okay well looks like it's about time for another update!
I'm home from school until the 21st so I have some time to work on the bike. Guys! The carbs are just about ready!!!! I followed eil's advice and bought a 3/4 gallon bucket of Berryman's Chem Dip. Best $23 I have spent so far, for everything cleaned up looking like the "new" carb I posted a pic of a while back. I let the carb bodies soak for 24 hrs as well as the brass parts. They honestly look almost good as new.
Since I've been home, I bought new main jets (currently running 110s for open pipes and pod filters), a new #3 carb body (old one was broke), 42mm pod filters, all new rubber, gaskets, and stainless screws. All the parts came in as I was writing this so I put them all together and put them on the bike!
Hahaha just realized that a few months ago I posted asking if a DJ kit was suitable. Well, everyone learns! Don't worry I did PLENTY of research! Bought the jets the proper way and fiddling about with the needle and all (got it one notch up from center as of now).
Speaking of open pipes, here's a shot of the 4-into-1 with the baffle removed:
I also took off the points cover and valve cover so I could begin to adjust the valves. Honestly I think it was a mistake to do it this early. I know the bike has fair compression because I was already able to get it to start. The problem is that four bolts on the valve cover broke off in the cylinder head of the engine. It's going to be a royal pain to extract those screws without a good bit of disassembly (removing the cams and such). I checked the clearances and they are all more or less within tolerances. What I am going to do for now is put a new gasket on and tighten the valve cover as much as I can, just so I can get the carbs on and balanced. While I'm doing that I'll buy a new thickness gauge and get ready to remove the cylinder head section.
By the way, once I get the cylinder head off, anyone know how to clean this thing??? The whole engine has tons of white residue and stuff on it from years of sitting and it's between the fins. Not really sure where to start to be honest. Is it safe to bolt it all together and sand blast it? Should I take the whole engine apart and clean each section piece by piece? I also have some Simple Green around. Let me know what you think.
If you remember early on, I replaced the spark plugs. This did a bit to help, but the spark is still not as bright and white as it could be. That said, I'm going to spend on the electronic ignition and new coils. Hopefully that'll reclaim a bit of power, but that's a long ways away after this engine gets cleaned up...
Last thing (actually first thing I did when I got home) was I stripped down the brakes. Nothing special to show. I don't think a rebuild is worth it when I can just as easily upgrade to beefier GS1100 or nice new Brembo's. Got the parts here if anyone's looking to buy. I'll post photos in my next post.
OOOOkay. So tonight I just buttoned the carburetors back onto the bike. Closed up the valve cover for testing. Here's the problem, when I try to start the bike, the starter solenoid goes "Bzzzzz, Click!" and the nothing happens. Anybody have some insight on this?
G
GSX1000E
Guest
You didn't buy that nasty, rusty exhaust that someone posted for sale with no baffle did you???? After you spend tons of time and money making it nice,
you can buy a new muffler insert for about $50-75.00 plus shipping. Or, you could have bought a NEW V & H for about $360.00 plus shipping.
you can buy a new muffler insert for about $50-75.00 plus shipping. Or, you could have bought a NEW V & H for about $360.00 plus shipping.
1
1978
Guest
Thanks! Will do. I'll probably send each bit out to a shop to get blasted, probably painted as well.
Okay, sounds about right! I had killed the battery running the starter a while back, charged it up a bit, must still be a little low.
For the jets I went up to 110 based on this:-
http://motorcycles.wikia.com/wiki/Rejetting
and this:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...Pipes-Panic!-(Help!-Your-Bike-has-Pods)/page8
But nothing's stopping me from going up even further! (I currently have 95's, 100's, 110's, 120's, and 142.5's)
1
1978
Guest
You didn't buy that nasty, rusty exhaust that someone posted for sale with no baffle did you???? After you spend tons of time and money making it nice,
you can buy a new muffler insert for about $50-75.00 plus shipping. Or, you could have bought a NEW V & H for about $360.00 plus shipping.
Nope, all came with the bike. I'm going to probably get a reverse cone for it later on
1
1978
Guest
Okay, so got some new information. I bought a new starter relay for the bike. Most of the electronic parts are long overdue to be replaced anyway. The battery definitely needed to be charged. I'm not sure exactly what is going on, but the sound of the starter is not as sharp and loud as it was when I first hooked up the battery. It seems like it's turning slower now. So I think it just needs to be charged up a bit more. The new starter relay definitely helped also.
So where I am now, is that the bike "wheezes". It hasn't coughed yet, but it makes a "pshhh" sound out of the carbs every once in a while while I'm using the starter. What should I do with the vacuum lines on the carbs? Not sure if that has anything to do with it. I think it's really close to starting. I've been starting it with choke full open as well. So any idea what the "psshhh" noise means (how I should adjust to better start it) and what I should do with the vacuum lines?
So where I am now, is that the bike "wheezes". It hasn't coughed yet, but it makes a "pshhh" sound out of the carbs every once in a while while I'm using the starter. What should I do with the vacuum lines on the carbs? Not sure if that has anything to do with it. I think it's really close to starting. I've been starting it with choke full open as well. So any idea what the "psshhh" noise means (how I should adjust to better start it) and what I should do with the vacuum lines?
1
1978
Guest
Thanks! I'll plug that then. The valves are good. Unfortunately, I was unable to get the bolts out. Once I can get the bike to start, I'm going to balance the carbs, and then once that's all done, I'm going to tear down the engine, go at it piece by piece with Simple Green, and by that point it will be easier to remove those bolts.
C
commandorando
Guest
So Im building a 79 1000, and you are going to help me a lot
Im going to sync my carbs soon. What are you using to sync them? Also interested in what jets you go with because i want to run pods as well...
Im going to sync my carbs soon. What are you using to sync them? Also interested in what jets you go with because i want to run pods as well...
So Im building a 79 1000, and you are going to help me a lot
Im going to sync my carbs soon. What are you using to sync them? Also interested in what jets you go with because i want to run pods as well...
There's about 200 threads on sync tools and probably 500 on jetting
So, read up a bit, post up Indidual question in the appropriate forum, then start a project thread
C
commandorando
Guest
just curious what he specifically was using. Not really looking to start my own project thread, not much of a photo guy myself.
1
1978
Guest
I don't mind sharing what I used. I bought this carb sync gauge: http://www.ebay.com/itm/151518608429?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
and a set of jets from SiriusConInc: http://www.siriusconinc.com/search_...el=GS1000&part=&partno=&x=0&y=0&search=search
On a side note, I tried to plug the vacuum port on the carbs, fill them with gas, and run it, but it didn't start. It turns over just fine, but the starter motor sounds really really sluggish. Even when I charge the battery up to like 12 or 13 volts. I also replaced the starter relay, which helped a little bit, but it definitely does not sound as strong and fast to turn over as it did a long time ago (when I originally shot that video). I might buy a new starter motor.
C
commandorando
Guest
There is a screw on the very bottom of the float bowl, back it out very slow until gas drips out of it and then tighten it back up. It helps fill the carb with gas. Also, check and name sure the carb is securely attached, if it isn't perfect around those rubber boots it can't suck in gas. Did you check for spark?
No need to open the float bowl screw if the vent line is working. Tapping the float bowl will help to seat a leaking seat though.
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