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1979 GS1000E caf? refresh

  • Thread starter Thread starter Throttlejock
  • Start date Start date
T

Throttlejock

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Just picked this up the other day from a kid that neglected it for 3 years. He kept it running, but only rode it 300 miles during that time. No service, no repairs, nothing. I rode it home about 10 miles mixing highway and residential. The engine feels down on power. Before I get to taking it apart for basic stuff, I took a few pictures. I noticed oil leaking from somewhere on #1 carb, and the petcock, cam covers? and probably the head gasket/tach cable as well. Does anyone have ideas on why it would be coming from the carb? Also the intake boot is too large and doesn't seal over the box, but it all looks factory so I don't understand.

Im going to need a lot of tips on this thing. I've owned old bikes before, but never had them long enough to do any maintenance other than a carb rebuild I did on my CB750.

Picture red of oil on carb and petcock.

image.jpg
 
Thats shellaced fuel from the petcock gasket behind the lever leaking on the petcock and the carbs are from leaking fuel tube orings and / or bowl gaskets. What you need to do is rebuild the carbs and get new orings for the fuel tubes from our member Robert Barr. 1 kit does the entire rack of carbs. New bowl gaskets are in order as well. Do the full 24 hr soaking of the carb bodies and jets in Berrymans carb and parts cleaner..available at Walmart for like 20 bucks. remove the plastic bucket and you can do 2 carb bodies side by side in the can.

heres some info.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/vm_carb_rebuild.pdf

http://cycleorings.com/VMkit.html

http://cycleorings.com/intake.html
 
Oh thank god. That is something I can handle. It's only letting me attach one image per post, so here's another engine shot.
 

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chuck hahn said:
save this website and the service manual PDF. get the carbs rebuilt, the valve ( tappet) clearances within spec new oil and filter, get it running and check the timing per the manual. this should get it running well and get you started on the rest of the bike.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

http://zeus.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/GS1000_C-E-S-L_Manual.pdf
Click to expand...

I just grabbed 4qts of Castrol 20w50 part synthetic and a K&N filter with o rings from cycle gear along with new grips and bar end mirrors.
 
Use the Shell Rotella 10/40 diesel oil. Has a higher Zinc content that helps with heat management..and on sale its only 13.00 and change at Orielleys.
 
I'll do that next time. Right now I'm just trying to flush out the old gunk and do another oil and filter change in 500 miles or so.
 
Oil stains that high on the cam cover is usually a leaky cover gasket ( which will be replaced when you do the valve adjustments ) or leaky cam end plugs. The rubber half moon things. The half moons can be reused. What I do is clean them and the U shape in the head with some carb spray. Then a thin skim of Ultra Black RTV in the U and reinstall the plugs with the lip to the inside of the engine. I also put a little RTV across the top flats of the plugs so the gasket doesnt leak there as well...just a preventative measure when reusing the plugs. And it doesnt take much. Just a thin wipe is sufficient. We know thats not how Suzuki out them in, but reversing them with the lip in prevents them from sliding out..which has been know to happen.

I would also suggest replacing the tach drives oring as well. Just to be sure its good and not leaking. May even want to replace the breather cover gasket. Im throwing things at you that are known to be problematic at some point, so if your gonna get into it you may as well do it all and be done.
 
We have a shim exchange club also...so dont buy shims. Do the checks and record what ones are within specs and which are not. then remove the shims on the ones out of spec and see what numbers are on them. Do the math and see what new shim sizes youll need and get ahold of Ray via a PM. When the new ones arrive, swap them out and send them to Ray.

DO NOT NOT EVER rotate the engine without a shim in the buckets!!!! Motion pro sells the tool for depressing the buckets for aroun 9 or 10 bucks. there is also a tutorial on how to use a Zip Tie to hold the valve open so shims can be removed This is an 850 but its a 2 valve engine which is the same process as yours.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/gs850valve_adjust.pdf
 
I wouldn't doubt if all of those are leaking. Are there any gasket brands to avoid?
 
I personally order OEM. A few bucks one way or another doesnt concern me...performance does.
 
Awesome info, thank you very much. Now I just have to figure out how to get the bike in the air. I have a motorcycle jack, but I can't get to the drain plug with it in place, and there is no center stand.
 
Have a small floor jack?? Lay a 1X4 (or similar ) board across the jack and under the pipes a little back of the bottom bend. Hold the bike upright and jack the board up against the pipes...if its a stock exhaust. If its a 4 into 1 like a Vance and Hines its a little more difficult and the board trick wont work.
 
The only other jack I have is the roadside scissor jack from my car. I have no idea what exhaust it is. It's hacked off by the brake pedal, looks like a former 4-2-1.
 
Maybe use some straps over the rafters to each side of the bars to hold it upright???? just trying to throw ideas at you to spark that inner McGyver!! LOL
 
I want to try that, but I don't want to pull my garage down, lol. They already look a little bowed in the middle. I may see if someone local can spare their sport bike stands for a few days. Hopefully they fit.
 
Get one of those buddies to come by and hold it up so you can loosen the plug. Now your gonna need to stand there a while to let it drain good. If you got your buddies favorite beers on hand he may hang around a while...LOL
 
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