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1979 GS1000E caf? refresh

  • Thread starter Thread starter Throttlejock
  • Start date Start date
set it close to the wall and lean it against the wall. Then kick a 2X4 under the side stand maybe???? Wall wont let it fall to the right and the board should let it rest like it would do anyway??? long as its stable and relatively close to be upright good it should be ok I would think.
 
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That's actually a great idea, lol. Plenty of ground clearance on this old thing.
 
I may hold off on that until my buddy gets off work in a few hours. But I need to do SOMETHING tonight. Gunna try and swap the grips and put the mirrors on. Riding without mirrors on this was terrifying in rush hour.
 
leaving it in gear and wrapping a bungee around the front brake to apply the brakes will also provide some safety against it rolling off the side stand.
 
chuck hahn said:
Use the Shell Rotella 10/40 diesel oil. Has a higher Zinc content that helps with heat management..and on sale its only 13.00 and change at Orielleys.
Click to expand...

Zinc has nothing to do with heat management. It's a friction reducer WHEN heated for reducing wear on areas like flat tappet camshafts, like the GS engine.

The Rotella oil has less friction reducers/additives that the wet clutch does not like, so these old engine designs really like Rotella.
 
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Now I can't get the grip off of the throttle. Worried about breaking something if I grab a mallet.
 
Also, I'm trying to get the gas tank off, but the fuel gauge wires are stopping me. What are my options? If I unscrew the bracket holding them in, will I have to drain the tank?
 
The wires should plug into the main harness. Maybe some pictures of the setup thats there will help....but slow down and dont get yanking on things just yet. You dont take the sending unit screws out to remove any wires!!! Look around in the left frontal area after you wiggle and pull back then tank to remove it off the cushions it seats on.

Grab the rear of the tank and the front U shaped area of the tank at the top front. Lift the rear slightly and wiggle side to side as your easing the tank toward the back of the bike. Now yopu should find the two wires plugged into the main wire harness in the area of the left tank cushion.
 
It looks like they were crimped and taped up into the main harness. No unplugging them without ripping all of the tape off or cutting the wires again.

image.jpg
 
OK. I would cut them close to the crimp ons and redo them with male / female bullet connectors. Just be sure the connections once the bullet connectors are on are shields so they dont short against the frame..this will cause the dash guage to malfunction. Long as they are shielded they will be ok. The PO screwed the pooch there for sure.
 
I may just cut them out altogether. The gauge isn't accurate and I plan on swapping for either smaller analog gauges or one digital gauge of i can find one cheap. Or maybe someone on here has one and will trade me a stock seat with no rips and a luggage rack. Guy threw them in with the sale and I have no use for them.
 
To calibrate the sending unit, I do the following. Tank holds 5 gallons so i buy 2 1/2 at the pump and then turn on the key and give it a few minutes to settle the needle. Should read at the 1/2 tank mark. Say it read below the half mark..then you drain the tank and remove the sender and bend the arm DOWN just a little and run the test again. If it reads above the half mark, you bend the arm UP a tad and try again. may take a few tries but once its set its a very reliable set up.
 
Even if it jumps around? It was reading full when I looked at it last week, 1/2 tank when I bought it, then after a quick pull down the street it dropped to 1/4 and hasn't moved since.

Also, is the push/pull throttle necessary? I'm going to have to rip it all out to get this damn grip off and the pull cable is frayed. I know a lot of the CB750 guys switched to a single cable but I'm not sure what the thoughts are on these bikes.
 
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If the connections in those make shift crimps are bad, the gauge is gonna be squirrely. Correct that and at least see what happens afterwards. And the sending unit itself may needs some love. Old gas may have caused lapses in the slider making good contact with the circuit board inside the cover. Heres the clean up tutorial for the sending unit. I use Q tips and carb spray to clean them up. NOTE: Youll see a very fine wire leading from a soldered point on the unit base to the circuit board..be super careful not to break that wire!!!!!

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/GSfuelguagesendunitrepair_by_mr_jethro.pdf

To get the cables off easily, what I do is remove the carbs and remove the cables at the carb end first. Then take the switch box screws out and the cables will have free play to be removed from the throttle grip. Ive never had to use the pusher cable in 30 years of riding bikes. guess if you just wanted the puller cable its your call.
 
chuck hahn said:
Use the Shell Rotella 10/40 diesel oil. Has a higher Zinc content that helps with heat management..and on sale its only 13.00 and change at Orielleys.
Click to expand...

Yep, that's what I just paid (except at AutoZone.) The bike does seem to run a bit cooler.
 
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