Re: points....
Re: points....
OK Lori, this is the easy part.
Since the problem is on the 2 and 3 cylinder, we will only adjust and time those.
Take off the round cover on the right end of the crankcase that the points are underneath.
You will see two sets of points. One located at the 9 oclock position and the other located at the 3 oclock position. The 3 oclock set is the set for cylinders 2 and 3. The points are mounted on a circular plate about 6 or 7 inches in diameter and at the 12 oclock position you will see about a 5/8" hole in the plate, That is your timing window. Through that hole you will see another plate behind. On that "behind" plate you will find the timing marks. There are four timing marks on the plate. The one you need for static timing the right hand set of points will have a mark that looks like
F2| The line on the right side of the F2 is the static timing mark for the right pointset
Now, forgetting about the timing marks for a minute. Take a 19 mm wrench and rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the right pointset points are at their widest gap. If you pass the widest gap, just go around again.
When you have the crank turned so the points are at their widest, look at the contacts closely. (the contacts are the small round cylinders on the end of the arm) The mating surfaces should be flat. There should be no ridges or lumps on the surfaces. If there are, file the lumps off.
Now loosen the single screw that holds the pointset and take a feeler guage and set the gap to 14 thousandths. Tighten the screw back down that holds the points.
Take a continuity light and clamp the lead on it to the electrical connector/clip of the black wire on the right pointset. Take a clamp and clamp the probe tip of the continuity light to ground either on the bike or to the battery negative terminal. (this will leave both your hands free rather than trying to hold the light and do three things at once)
Look through the timing window and in alignment with the left edge of the bolt head that is above the window, (12 oclock) you will find a mark on the engine case. That is the static timing mark. Take a 19 mm wrench and rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the plate you will see through the timing window rotates to show F2| The line following F2 must be aligned with the mark on the engine case.. If you do not have a mark on the engine case, align the F2 mark with the left edg of the bolt head located at the 12 oclcock position.
Once you have these two marks aligned, switch on the ignition.
(do NOT start the bike, we just want the ignition switched on)
The continuity light will be on/lighted.
Very lightly press the points together, the light should go out.
If the continuity light is out, you will need to open the points very slightly.
Loosen the screw on the right pointset and lightly tap the points in either direction as needed to get the continuity light to just go out.
Usually I get them close enough that the lightest touch on the points pressing them together with my finger will cause the test light to go out.
The light indicates when the points will "break" and you want that break to occur at the same time the timing marks are aligned .
Once you have the points set so the light flickers out, tighten the pointset mounting screw down.
Youre done. Remove the continuity light and you should be able to start the bike.
(If you do not have a continuity light, you can make one with a 12 volt bulb and a couple wires)
Let me know how things work out.
Earl
Lori8099 said:
I am not exactly how to set them...if you wouldn't mind... :lol: .. Any help is greatly welcomed.. I was told it was the carbs so spent the money to have them cleaned..grrrr... anyways.. you have NO IDEA how much of a help you have been ...thanks !! Lori
