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1979 GS1000L repurpose

  • Thread starter Thread starter Rockgs1000
  • Start date Start date
R

Rockgs1000

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I bought it on what i consider a steal now that depends on how deep i have to get into it and my cost. which is not a big deal i plan on keeping it when i am done changing it. i am not sure which way i want to go either back to stock looks or make it into something different. i know i am not wanting to go cafe racer and not sure if i want to go to total bobber either. i want to ride it around town as well as on some curve roads and day rides so nothing that is hard tail or sore butt. I am just now getting into it. it runs and sounds good the carbs seem to be rejeted for the pod filters on it but will know when i take them apart and rebuild them for my own peice of mind i don't know what any of the PO have or haven't done. And to face the facts i won't let my safety rest in their abilities but would rather put it in my own. I have started the tear down the front brakes were hanging up and dragging bad to where i could barely push it around and riding it in the shop was a challenge for the motor to get it moving. So i took them off and man the ease. Here is what she looked like when i brought her home.
650E5034-5BA2-4105-9D68-2B6399172FCF-13453-00000DFAC8161D49.jpg

BCB1A205-B228-4B93-A2F2-AE63B5DE8A6A-13453-00000DFAF7329004.jpg

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She is pretty astetically sound no dents in tank fenders and chrome have very minimal pitting if any. and the wiring harness is a train wreck good thing i am not scared to take it out and see what has been cut spliced and hacked on it. My biggest questions i that first of all the fact is the front fork is not the factory for an L model so which is it? and the brake calipers are they factory they look the very same calipers that is on my buddies 82 GS1100GL. and i want to buy the new oring kit for it but it is not offered for the gs1000l on the CRC2 site and not sure where else to look. I also destroyed the reservoir for the front mastercylinder can i get a replacement and where would i look for one? again cant get it on the crc2 site.
I want to get it mechanically sound and ride it some before i go to modifying it. i know that will mean tearing it down twice but thats me. I am going to check all bearings including swing arm, wheel, steering, and all others that may be there and need checked. and get the wiring cleaned up as well. thanks for any help on placed to get replacement parts other than what Basscliff has already provided. i have learned alot already and will only ask questions if i am hung up on something i haven't found the answer to by searching the sight. thanks again Rocky
 
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Rocky,

It's a bit hard to tell, but the L should have the leading axle fork, so maybe that's an E fork

Which leads me to ask, when was the accident? The one that bent up the L fork?

I know you didn't crash it, but what I mean is give it a good look, especially at the the front/headlight/instruments/frame to check for crash damage

Too bad you don't want to cafe it, you've already got the bars, even if the PO put them on upside down!

Everything you'll want to know is on the forum. Go over to BasCliff's and download a factory repair manual
 
the headlight housing is cracked as well. but i rode it the only issues in the front end was locked up front brake calipers. i blew the pistons out today with an air hose at work going to rebuild them. I didn't realize the bars were upside down. i thought they were right side up. I do want it to corner well i like to take curves a little to quick just ask My VTX 1800 i have almost worn through the engine guards on it and foot pegs as well. i have been looking at manuals and downloading the service manual. i am just in need of direction for a replacement master cylinder reservior for the front brakes or can i use another master cylinder from another bike that is preferable metal.
 
Couple of questions .. my gear indicator lights work when going through the gears. My question is there is six gear lights but only five gears in my transmission. Is there a Suzuki that has six gears? Also how far can you lower these bikes without messing the gymoetry of the bike?
 
Couple of questions .. my gear indicator lights work when going through the gears. My question is there is six gear lights but only five gears in my transmission. Is there a Suzuki that has six gears?
Suzuki was pretty good at using the same part for many different bikes. Your bike only has five forward gears, but they used the same indicator panel on the 450 and 550, which did have six gears.


Also how far can you lower these bikes without messing the gymoetry of the bike?
You can't lower it (or raise it) any without messing up the geometry. Besides you said earlier that you were interested in higher cornering speeds. Lowering the bike will reduce your clearance, making it touch down earlier than your VTX.

.
 
Your right my X does sit lower and I see your point. I guess what I really wanna o is make the ride height lower. I like the look of the pan seat low slung. I will have to figure out how to lower the seat and keep the ride height off the pavement. Thanks Steve you know about the front master cylinder replacement I broke the reservoir on mine.
 
I looked at the vin on my bike I read 704793. Checked the title it said gs1000704793. Dont think this is right is there somewhere else I can find the vin?
 
Thanks Steve you know about the front master cylinder replacement I broke the reservoir on mine.
New parts are available at any of the online vendors. Some of the favorites are Boulevard Suzuki, G&S Suzuki, Part Shark and Z1 Enterprises.

Z1 does not show most OEM parts on their website, but can order them if you call them.

Looking at your pictures, though, you might have a problem. The parts fiches that I saw show a round reservoir for your bike, the one in your pictures appears to be rectangular. The rectangular reservoirs appeared on the 1980 models, so yours appears to have an upgrade.

.
 
Thanks for that bit of information I am sure mine had an upgrade or a swap at one point it no longer has the L forks on it so I assume the used the forks, bars, grips and all from another bike so gonna be hard to figure out if it is factory equipment and if so what dad blame year or aftermarket and what brand .
 
B730E7BA-8F03-4B36-9F1B-6A1E6A62E0CE-888-00000053AEBC88E6.jpg

Starting to chase down all the wiring wrong doings.
ECC2E3A4-A5C9-4939-A7D7-4BF80C40895D-888-00000053A10C5D53.jpg

FBF0BE0C-ED94-4AF8-A524-ED9B67FFAC4B-888-00000053946CD558.jpg


I didn't know where this connector went but figured out it is the rear lights connector. They had made it the direct power for the coils bypassing the on off switch
E9CDB154-4CCB-4D0C-90AF-48CA0F55BD7A-888-000000538BB2F5E3.jpg
 
Thanks for that bit of information I am sure mine had an upgrade or a swap at one point it no longer has the L forks on it so I assume the used the forks, bars, grips and all from another bike so gonna be hard to figure out if it is factory equipment and if so what dad blame year or aftermarket and what brand .
If they simply slid "new" fork tubes in the standard triple trees, it will upset the steering geometry and your bike will not handle like it should.

Please show us a picture of the upper triple, taken from above the gas tank, looking down the fork tubes. Does not matter if the handlebars are still attached, we should be able to see if you still have the "L" triple or if it has been changed, along with the forks.

.
 
I didn't know where this connector went but figured out it is the rear lights connector. They had made it the direct power for the coils bypassing the on off switch
E9CDB154-4CCB-4D0C-90AF-48CA0F55BD7A-888-000000538BB2F5E3.jpg
I am not so sure that you are correct in assuming that is the "rear lights connector". With those colors, it appears to be the wires to the gear position indicator and the starter solenoid.

.
 
wiring harness removed

wiring harness removed

i got the harness off last night after testing the charging system. finding out that the after market or incorrect R/R that is installed is wrong. i will take a picture from atop the triple tree tonight. the best i can tell is that the caliper for the front brake match up to the microfiche of the 82 1100gl. but not completely sure it don't match up with any others. I found the **** indicator and starter solenoid they were still connected and working. the only wire out of place is the Yellow Green wire that is actually spliced in to another wire a little down the harness. The PO really did a number on the harness gonna take a couple days to figure it out but got the majority of it worked out and labeled now to repair the nicks and cuts and crimps in it oh and all the jerry rigging to it. I am adding up all the connectors and going to go to a junk yard and start collecting the GM weather proof connectors off wiring harnesses in junk cars. I can't afford to buy the crimp tool and all the connectors might as well get them off junk. here is a few pic of where it stands now taken the batttery and little side panel off that held the fuses, solenoid, and R/R going to relocate and clean it all up.
BEF97037-0AB5-4720-85FF-E14E0A49C741-4032-000003EFAB0325F3.jpg

B18D85D8-680E-4BE9-8387-8B349CA07A6C-4032-000003EF933DDBFF.jpg

6C241A48-5C8E-465A-9085-81BDFE158215-4032-000003EFB571765C.jpg

3B91E933-7B06-40EB-A1DA-825E3AB060DC-4032-000003EF85914FBE.jpg

thanks for the information on the serial number.
 
i am not sure though about that connector i am going to run it out on the diagram and try and figure it out.
 
6FFCC304-4745-454D-BC80-0BFD36DFD075-353-0000007D3C2ADACC.jpg

79FA3FD7-226B-4534-B9A4-9952DB884037-353-0000007D4A193E84.jpg

Here is from stop the triple tree for the verification if it ya been changed or f I still have the L. Also not sure if it helps but the headlight had a black plastic housing.
 
6FFCC304-4745-454D-BC80-0BFD36DFD075-353-0000007D3C2ADACC.jpg


79FA3FD7-226B-4534-B9A4-9952DB884037-353-0000007D4A193E84.jpg

Here is from stop the triple tree for the verification if it ya been changed or f I still have the L. Also not sure if it helps but the headlight had a black plastic housing.
Note the straight-across angle of the rear edge.
Your first picture shows me that the headlight mounting ears are not correct. They are still the L ears, but have been twisted outward for the larger headlight that was installed, then the tips were bent to line up with the mounting bolts. Note the angle that the turn signals are forced into.

Kudos to somebody for installing a larger (probably better) headlight, but they did it incorrectly.


Compare your second picture with these pictures from the 1000E service manual. They are not the best pictures, but should show what you need to know.
Note the angle of the rear edge.
GS1000Etoptriple.jpg


Here is a drawing (from the same manual) that shows cable routing, but note the rear angle here. Might be a bit exagerated, but definitely NOT straight.
GS1000Ecablerouting.jpg



Personally, I think you still have the L triples on there. :o

Since your axle has been moved back, your wheelbase will be shorter, meaning possible quicker steering, but it also increases the "trail" measurement, meaning that it will be harder to steer. It's kind of like giving you sports car steering, but turning off the power assist.

.
 
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Best bet is to find an 80 model G or E or S triple for it then....will it fit the frame?
 
getting her nerves back in order

getting her nerves back in order

I got her all laid out on the carpet at the house. well her electrical part anyway fixing all the shade tree electrical tape by passes and cut throughs. Looking for new connectors for the four and six pin connectors and trying to decide how to wrap it. I am going to leave all the bullet connectors on till i put it back on the bike with all the components moved around where i want them. I am going to put it back together as is before i do anything and get it riding and running good before i cut or do anything i just want to clean up the electrical first. oh yeah get some new tires as well they in dire need. My brakes are about back together with rebuild kits all the way around and braided SS lines. got a few more parts i am waiting on to get it so i can put them back together. here is a few pics of the work lately . i moved my key switch down to around the battery. as far as wire lengths i am leaving most of them long so i can cut them to length when i get all my components where i want them then route wires to them accordingly and cut to length.
ABBADC97-9B52-4431-8EE1-7A16E281FECC-508-0000002459994B0C.jpg

4B82D726-0D2B-46DF-952F-D0DA242D09B0-508-000000244A76A339.jpg
 
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