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1980 gs1000e ........ TROUBLE .....

  • Thread starter Thread starter oldgrumpy
  • Start date Start date
O

oldgrumpy

Guest
hi guys well i,ve just finish changing my pilot jets on my cv standard carbys from 40 to 42.5 and my mains from 108 to 117.5.. and i raised the needles to the last groove as well ,and thororoughly clean the carbys ,,,now the are back on the bike and its set at about 1300-1500 idling it idles nicelly i,ve gotNGK B8ES,,ALL NEW , it runs straight up to 7500 without coughing ,, then if i let it ease back to idle again before reving it again with a couple of revs ,,,it fluters and coughs...i,ve done this 3-4 times to know something is not right ,,, i turned it off later came back and repeated this AGAIN,,, i was going put thr ngkb7es back in and the see if there,s a differnce... the air screws set at the standard setting ,, should i adjust them , oh, i am running good oval pods and 4 into 1 system ..... when i repeatly rev it from 2500.. to 6800 or so it flutters ,,,, if i let it go back to idle it will rev straight back up to 7500 as long as i don,t keep reving it repeatedly . it start as every time nicely ... i am deserately keen on advice PLEASE !!!!:o:o:o:o:o
 
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How to do carb boots look? More importantly, did you replace the o-rings where the carb boots meet the head?
 
tom203 said:
How to do carb boots look? More importantly, did you replace the o-rings where the carb boots meet the head?
Click to expand...
............ hi yes about 8 months ago ireplaced the carby "o" rings ,,, the boots origion o ring were hard and flatish ,,,,, thanks for your suggestion ,,,,, i think i may have my needle on my cv carbys toooooo high ,, which is to rich,,,, as the fluttering is mid range if i rev it 2-3 times quickly ... if i let it go back to idle and rest it will rev straight up to 7500 -8500...... i have the feeling as the mains and needle range do normally overlap maybe i should go ,,, maybe 3 up from the bottom regards oldgrumpy :)
 
Forget the revs when things are happening - it's the throttle position that we need to know. Will it, for example, rev cleanly if you just give it 1/4 throttle?
 
Don't mess with the spark plugs.
I'd lower the needles one notch at a time until you lose most of the stumble. With the stock needle you may never lose all of it with the pods.
I recommend a Dynojet kit if you want a smooth running bike through all the fuel circuits.
 
hampshirehog said:
Forget the revs when things are happening - it's the throttle position that we need to know. Will it, for example, rev cleanly if you just give it 1/4 throttle?
Click to expand...
............. it revs at 1/4 throttle reasonably nicely ,,its when i open it up and do it 2-3 times quickly it flutters regards oldgrumpy :o
 
oldgrumpy said:
............. it revs at 1/4 throttle reasonably nicely ,,its when i open it up and do it 2-3 times quickly it flutters regards oldgrumpy :o
Click to expand...

I know you've got adjustable needles on the non US carbs, and I have some of those needles and have tried them as well. They help, but still have flat spots. They're just too fat all along the taper. A Dynojet kit, Factory Pro needles, and recently I found in a stock set of BS32s from a pre 80 XS adjustable needles with some nice taper and point to them I'm keen to give a shot. When I measured them with calipers they're similar in diameter at the top but taper off to a point in the last 1/2" of the needle. Might be harder to find than a kit, but migh be cheaper and worth a shot..
 
TheCafeKid said:
I know you've got adjustable needles on the non US carbs, and I have some of those needles and have tried them as well. They help, but still have flat spots. They're just too fat all along the taper. A Dynojet kit, Factory Pro needles, and recently I found in a stock set of BS32s from a pre 80 XS adjustable needles with some nice taper and point to them I'm keen to give a shot. When I measured them with calipers they're similar in diameter at the top but taper off to a point in the last 1/2" of the needle. Might be harder to find than a kit, but migh be cheaper and worth a shot..
Click to expand...
That is some very good info!
 
If she runs cleanly on 1/4 throttle that would indicate that your problem lies with either the needles or the mains. Do you know how to do plug chops?
 
hampshirehog said:
If she runs cleanly on 1/4 throttle that would indicate that your problem lies with either the needles or the mains. Do you know how to do plug chops?
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hi yes i do ,,,know how to chop plugs regards oldgrumpy :)
 
tom203 said:
How to do carb boots look? More importantly, did you replace the o-rings where the carb boots meet the head?
Click to expand...
hi the "O " rings and the boots are good ,,,, ,and i did replace the O rings about 8 months ago regards oldgrumpy
 
chef1366 said:
Don't mess with the spark plugs.
I'd lower the needles one notch at a time until you lose most of the stumble. With the stock needle you may never lose all of it with the pods.
I recommend a Dynojet kit if you want a smooth running bike through all the fuel circuits.
Click to expand...
cheff,,,, i think that down the short track i will probably go with the dynojet kit ,,,,,,, which kit for my 1980 gs1000e regards oldgrumpy :)
 
1980 gs1000e,,,, cv carbys /????

1980 gs1000e,,,, cv carbys /????

hi guys i,m in australia,,, in a little tiny mature people town ,,, so there is NO HELP ,, on my standard cv carbys on my gs1000e,,, there is a small screw on top of the inlet alloy part of carby its only about 3-4 mm dia ,,, i was told they are vents to balnce the carbys with your gauges its the little recessed screw on top pf carby alloy inlet manifold just before the butterfly please help me here guys regards oldgrumpy :o
 
gs1000e trouble

gs1000e trouble

could you briefly tell me the set up for adjustment of those ??? please regards oldgrumpy :o:o:o
 
oldgrumpy said:
could you briefly tell me the set up for adjustment of those ??? please regards oldgrumpy :o:o:o
Click to expand...
Briefly... be careful. The mixture screws are delicate with soft point eagerly anxious to break off- see item marked "pilot fuel screw" in stolen pic.With bike OFF, Get a good fitting screwdriver, SLOWLY screw each screw in till it bottoms out, counting the turns, it should be like 2 to 2 and a half turns till you feel it bottom out. After you determine/check this, back all screws out about the same - 2 to 2 and a half turns out.
Now wait for someone to give you link to what you do next!

Edit; of course, unless you remove and inspect the screws, you won't be sure that someone has not damaged them! beware little parts!
 
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This from Ninja site - similar carb design- basic advice to point you in right direction. (I don't want you to be sitting idle in "little tiny mature people town")




Once the screws are exposed, turn them all the way in (gently - not too tight!) then back them out 2 1/2 turns each. This is the basic setting. It can be further modified after you put the carbs back on the bike. (With a Muzzy/pod filters setup the screws will be opened a little more.)
So, put the carbs back on the bike; go for a ride. Come home with a warm engine. Park and leave it idling. Put on a jersey glove or something to protect your hand from the heat. Use a small screwdriver to turn in each screw until the cylinder for the screw being adjusted starts to miss, then turn it back out 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Alternate method: Set the screws out to 2 turns, then back them out 1/4 turn at a time while blipping the throttle. If it hangs at all, it's too lean. Turn the screw out, which richens the mixture. If it drops below idle when returning, it's too rich. Turn the screw in, which leans out the mixture
 
which dynojet kit ?????????????

which dynojet kit ?????????????

guys on my 1980 gs1000e which has cv carbys standard in australia ,,,,if i keep having problems ,,,, which dynojet kit would you recommend please .... should i go down that way ... regards oldgrumpy :)
 
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