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1980 GS1000S Progress!!

Her's a couple with the Yoshimura pipe:

DSC02183.jpg


DSC02182.jpg


DSC02157.jpg
 
I put a few more miles on it today..... Very nice ride!!!

A few things I need to work on and will most likely require some advice:

1) Not sure I like the feel of the clutch and someone riding with me thought he may have been smelling some clutch. For the most part it shifts, although the pull is fairly hard. It is also very difficult to find neutral....thoughts? We know the clutch itself is in fine shape, as Steve and I pulled it 30 miles ago.

2) Oil leaking down the tach cable. Couple of parts and that should be solved.

3) Suspension....got to work on that. I wish I did it before I put it back together, but I didn't think of it. Bike has less than 22K, weak springs due to age? Once I hit 40 mph, I get a bounce in front. Went away around 60 mph, but that was on a very smooth road. Tires are new and balanced. I put air 14 psi (after replacing a broken valve stem) in forks prior to the ride. Has original rear shocks....I hate to loose them, solely because of the original look, but I also want the bike to handle well. Time for springs? that will be another 1st for me. Difficult newbie project?

Overall, great running and riding bike and I am looking forward to tweaking it as needed.
 
the chain sound might be the timing chain needing adjusted , its prolly still factory set
i fixed a bike that had that sound,man it sounded bad b4 i set it then it sounded fine didnt hear it anymore hope thats whats wrong , easy fix for ya
 
platinum2 said:
the chain sound might be the timing chain needing adjusted , its prolly still factory set
i fixed a bike that had that sound,man it sounded bad b4 i set it then it sounded fine didnt hear it anymore hope thats whats wrong , easy fix for ya
Click to expand...

Hey Platinum,

That was solved some time ago. Turned out it was just a loose clutch basket nut.
 
"A few things I need to work on and will most likely require some advice:

1) Not sure I like the feel of the clutch and someone riding with me thought he may have been smelling some clutch. For the most part it shifts, although the pull is fairly hard. It is also very difficult to find neutral....thoughts? We know the clutch itself is in fine shape, as Steve and I pulled it 30 miles ago.
"





seeing its a oil bath clutch i doubt very much ayone could smell it......difficult to find neutral is usually just adjustment

oz
 
Also Platinum, the cam chain adjuster...if set up right... is constantly self adjusting. The proper way to set it is to turn the center bolt with the slot all the way in till it touches the plunger. Then back it out about 1/3 turn and secure the jam nut.
 
Did you install a new clutch cable? If not, get one. It's amazing how smooth the clutch will feel when changing out a worn cable with a new one. As for difficulty with finding neutral goes, first thing is to make sure the clutch is releasing all the way - use a minimum of free play at the lever. If that doesn't help, then consider checking the plates for warpage. On my second S it was difficult to find neutral, but the problem was solved by replacing the friction discs, and a couple of the warped steel plates. Now I can move between 1 - N - 2 easily, even when at a stop.

As for the suspension, I'd get Progressive springs for the front and use 15W fork oil. For your shocks, I suggest you remove the springs then check for smooth damping in the shocks (it's easier to check this if the springs are off). Soaking the shocks/springs in Evaporust will clean them up too and make them look like new. The shocks have adjustable damping, so maybe move up the damping to a higher setting and see if that helps.

Bike looks great. Keep going...
 
Nessism said:
Did you install a new clutch cable? If not, get one. It's amazing how smooth the clutch will feel when changing out a worn cable with a new one. As for difficulty with finding neutral goes, first thing is to make sure the clutch is releasing all the way - use a minimum of free play at the lever. If that doesn't help, then consider checking the plates for warpage. On my second S it was difficult to find neutral, but the problem was solved by replacing the friction discs, and a couple of the warped steel plates. Now I can move between 1 - N - 2 easily, even when at a stop.

As for the suspension, I'd get Progressive springs for the front and use 15W fork oil. For your shocks, I suggest you remove the springs then check for smooth damping in the shocks (it's easier to check this if the springs are off). Soaking the shocks/springs in Evaporust will clean them up too and make them look like new. The shocks have adjustable damping, so maybe move up the damping to a higher setting and see if that helps.

Bike looks great. Keep going...
Click to expand...

Yes, I did replace the clutch cable. I do believe it isan adjustment with either the cable or the shifter lever, as it was fine before the winter when I took it for a little ride. I am not sure how to make sure the travel of the clutch lever is correct or how to make sure it is releasing all the way. I will keep playing with it.

I realize I need to do the progressive spring upgrade.....the thought of that one has me a little intimidated, but I will tackle it soon.

As far as the rear shocks, am I correct in saying that they cannot be improved/rebuilt? If not, what is a good replacement that best keeps the stock appearance?
 
You'll find that replacing the fork springs isn't that difficult if you use Basscliff's procedures and either use the special tool people recommend OR remove the allen bolt from the bottom of the forks before disassembling them. Be sure to also put it all back together and then tighten everything down. I had an issue re-assembling mine and documented what the fix was in my rebuild thread.

Personally, I think either Progressives or Hagons will give you the look you are after and a better ride. Although I haven't tried my Hagons out yet, I rode a bike with them on last year and they felt okay to me; course I am ALOT more inexperienced than you so you may have a different take on that.
 
cowboyup3371 said:
You'll find that replacing the fork springs isn't that difficult if you use Basscliff's procedures and either use the special tool people recommend OR remove the allen bolt from the bottom of the forks before disassembling them. Be sure to also put it all back together and then tighten everything down. I had an issue re-assembling mine and documented what the fix was in my rebuild thread.

Personally, I think either Progressives or Hagons will give you the look you are after and a better ride. Although I haven't tried my Hagons out yet, I rode a bike with them on last year and they felt okay to me; course I am ALOT more inexperienced than you so you may have a different take on that.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info... I have a couple other issues to work on first, but I will get to it!
 
Sonic Springs are another option that I have in one of my scooters.

Eric
 
That bike is a beauty. I've wanted an "S" since seeing them in the bike mags when they were new. Have thought of cloning my '79 "E". I understand there are repro fairings, or at least something close, but what about the inner fairing or dash? Has anyone had good luck building a clone?
 
FLHGSRay said:
That bike is a beauty. I've wanted an "S" since seeing them in the bike mags when they were new. Have thought of cloning my '79 "E". I understand there are repro fairings, or at least something close, but what about the inner fairing or dash? Has anyone had good luck building a clone?
Click to expand...

Those S dashes (gauge cluster) are hard to come by, and when they do come available expect to pay $$$; same holds true for the mirrors. Bikini fairing and windscreen can be had easy enuf... Airtech sells repros of both i understand.
 
Frank Z. said:
Those S dashes (gauge cluster) are hard to come by, and when they do come available expect to pay $$$; same holds true for the mirrors. Bikini fairing and windscreen can be had easy enuf... Airtech sells repros of both i understand.
Click to expand...

Here is a picture of the dash. There is no inner fairing, it just fits around the dash and a rubber moulding covers where they meet.

I saw a dash go for $600 on Ebay.:eek:

DSC02173.jpg
 
hampshirehog said:
That's the very rare one with the 9k rpm red line tacho. One of mine has got that, the other the more common 8500 rpm red line
Click to expand...

Funny how something like that can matter when it comes to price, if that is truly the only difference.

Was it a case of the first few off the line got the 9k?
 
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