1980 GS1100E Igniter

[meds2]

Hi all first post here, although been around from time to time reading and checking out pics for a few years. It looks like this is a pretty beaten to death topic here so sorry about that....but I'm pretty sure my igniter is done. From what I've gathered from the forum here the way to go is put on Dyna S rather than try to source a new one? The rest of the components are stock except the R/R. Would something else wrong cause it to fail or do they just go with age? I can't seem to find a short or anything else wrong. The bike was running like a dream when I parked it last fall and now blows the 15A....(or is it 10A) ignition fuse when you turn the kill switch on except when the igniter is not hooked up. Thanks for any feedback.

 

[posplayr]

Personally, I would not bother with a Dyna-S if you have a stock ignitor. I have an ignitor that was working fine when I parted out my GS1100ED. If you are in the US I can ship it for $30.
The Dyns S is mainly popular for the guys with points. If you already have electronic ignition, they are generally more reliable than the Dyna-S. The Dyna-S sits in a very tough environment whereas the ignitor is mounted to the battery box which his much more benign.

 

[meds2]

hmmm...I live just north of Montana so sometimes ship things there just have to check if anyone is going down. Any thoughts on the dyna 2000 kit as an upgrade seems like more of a race option? Would you ship to Canada?

 

[posplayr]

The dynamic 2000 gives you a rev limiter and a timing retard to help with starting. The unit is pretty large but can be made to fit.

i can ship to Canada but costs have gone up considerably. The small domestic flat rate is about $7 but it is probably $20-$30 to Canada.

 

[posplayr]

I should mention if you are not aware that there is a tendency for the 1100’s to kick back and damage the sprage clutches. Basically if the engine is cranking slowly when the ignition fires in advance the engine can reverse pitting great force on the clutch. Best solution is to have strong starter/battery and make sure engine is turning strong when ignition comes on. Retarding advance is another precaution. You can rewrite the start switch so engine can be cranked separate from powering the ignition.

 

[meds2]

Thanks for the help. I think I will take you up on your offer for the stock igniter.....just have to figure out where I am going to send it. Might even be able to wrangle a trip to Montana out of the deal! (if my wife buys my logic). Do you want me to p/m you with the shipping info ect? Last thing, I was not aware of the kickback issue so when you say "you can rewrite the start switch" I wam assuming you mean with the Dyna ign?

 

[posplayr]

I would recommend modification Option #2 which is a slight mod to #1 (RapidRays original recommendation). They are both functional the same.

Otherwise, on my GS1100ED which was a 1166 with 10.25 CR, I never did this switch modification, but I would sure have kickback issues if my battery was down. It sounds like someone is taking a hammer to your stator cover.

For an 1100 I would get some hot coils and good wires, like the Accell setup or Dyna 3 ohm coils. This gives a great blue spark. I ran NGK iridium plugs which will clear any fouling very quickly (for example a large change in altitude with change the AFR significantly and load up the plugs at 8-10Kft from sea level).

https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...Clutch-Disaster-Modification&highlight=Clutch

https://www.keepandshare.com/doc/7535897/rapid-rays-starter-button-mod-revd-pdf-458k?da=y

PM me your info for shipping.