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1980 Suz GS450E Project

  • Thread starter Thread starter Strycker
  • Start date Start date
S

Strycker

Guest
So I've been on here for a little while. Figured I'd post up some pics of the bike now since everyone loves pics! This is going to take me a while to work on, but have a good start going. Here's what I've been up to.
First Day Home
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Stripped
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Finally Inside
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Removing Parts
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Inside the Stator / Starter Gear area
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Tank Stripped Bondo (First timer)
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Carbs (Missing a few screws)
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More Tank Bondo
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As Is..
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Planning on fabbing up a seat pan from 22ga steel and relocating the rectifier / ignition box. Possibly mounting the start solenoid near the battery box. Want to hack about 6 inches off the rear extensions of the frame. Removed half the rear fender and fit back in place.

To do: Clean & rebuild carbs, fab seat pan, clean inside of tank.
 
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I sure hope you don't value that carpet too much!! :eek::eek::eek:

Definitely not.. it came with the house and there are stains all over it. We've wanted to remove it for a while now and this will be the reason to :D
 
Nice start there... I feel like I've been here before :rolleyes:

What's the plan with the new seat pan etc.? Cafe or some other type of custom?
 
What's the plan with the new seat pan etc.? Cafe or some other type of custom?

Funny you should comment because I just spent over an hour scanning your thread on your rebuild. :) As far as the seat, I wanted to fab my own and model it similar to the tank shape, but today didn't go as planned working with the metal. Will have to figure something out. Want a shorter read section so kind of cafe style. Really didn't want to buy the fiberglass seat unless can't get something else built. I don't have any welding equipment or anything so might be tough.

I'm not going to undertake the engine overhaul (at least yet.) My plan so far is to clean up the carbs. Get those back on the bike. The tank has some rust so I'll have to deal with that. Find and hook up all the fuel lines (those weren't with the bike when I got it.) Needs an air filter for the airbox (inside parts missing too.)

Hoping the engine is good to go. It's been sitting forever, but only has 7,150 miles on it. It has the original tires too! I only paid US$250 for the whole moto, so not too worried it for some reason it doesn't work out.
 
Sounds like some fun is in order then! I have no metal fabricating skills whatsoever, so I'm hoping to find a decent pan that is close to a bolt on to give me a flat scrambler style like in the '60's and '70's. That'll be enough to make me happy.

Mate good luck with it, and hope I didn't bore you too much with my rebuild thread :p

Keep us up to date for sure, keen to see what you do...
 
I do believe I have discovered some tampering though. I can't seem to locate my "main" fuse anywhere. Should it not be located near the battery on the main power line? All the other wiring looks to be right and original, so I can't figure out why someone would rip out the fuse and straight wire it. Hope they haven't burned everything up. Any thoughts?

What size fuse should I place on the line? I've got a Clymer and I'll take a look, but any suggestions would help too.
 
The main fuse should be between the positive terminal of the battery and the rest of the harness, and it should clip into the electrics board along with the R/R, ignitor, etc. It's a 15 amp glass fuse.
 
Glass fuses kinda scare me. Go with a blade fuse. I have an inline fuse holder with a 15 amp fuse. You want it? I have a few extras :).
 
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This is about what it should look like.The fuse goes in the holder in the upper right of the ignitor/RR plate.Hate that glss fuse to.Wonder if a 750 fuse box will fit?My wifes 86 BTW.
 
Single inline blade fuse holders are available and some can even be ganged together with clips on the side. Dump that glass fuse its only going to give you trouble!
 
Nice little bike. You will have fun with it. + + on the fuse replacement. You can get an inline blade type fuse holder to splice in place from the local auto store for a few bucks I'm sure.

On the topic of seat pans, the easiest (and cheapest) type IMHO are the self made "fiberglass over foam". We've chronicalled this a few times so do a search but essentially you use pink or blue rigid foam to build up the shape you want and then cover it with fiberglass cloth and resin. You can also use this method to create missing body parts like side panels. The end result will be a rigid and strong but very light pan.

This method is fairly fast and easy since you don't need to make a "buck" or "mould" to cast from, simply form the shape and glass over. The only thing to know is that the resin used needs to be 2 part epoxy and not regular polyester resin as supplied in fiberglass kits. Polyester will eat the foam. Since epoxy resin is more expensive and sometimes harder to come by you can use regular resin if you first "encapsulate" the form totally so that no resin can get to the foam. You can do this by wrapping it in plastic shipping tape or the like.

This is not difficult for beginners and with a bit of patience a very acceptable seat pan can be fabbed up.

I'm enjoying this build so keep the pics coming.

Good luck with it.

Cheers,
Spyug
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I've been out of the post for a while and just got back into working on the bike a little. I've still got to fix the fuse situation. I'm currently looking one I can splice in, but the wire gauge is proving difficult for some reason. Someone hacked out the original and replaced it with a bullet plug to the rest of the harness, hence no fuse currently. Think that they could have fried anything running it like this? I've still not tested it out. Need to get that fuse in before. I have a blade style holder with a 12ga lead wire, but it's definitely larger gauge than what's on the bike. ugh.
 
Larger than what's on the bike is fine, it's when it's smaller that you need to worry.
 
Larger than what's on the bike is fine, it's when it's smaller that you need to worry.
Exactly. I also have a 12 gauge blade fuse wire spliced in. I think stock was 16 gauge. Bigger wire, no problems.
 
Okay, so I've been busy as of late... I have pics that I will get up soon. So far I've:
1) Stripped the bike down to the frame
2) Checked and re-wrapped the wiring harness
3) Painted the lower fork legs
4) Painted the headlight mount and housing
5) Painted the yoke and triple trees
6) Painted the frame

I finally got the bug and started tearing into it all. Now let's just hope it all goes back together! hehe

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Question.. I have the ignition switch off the bike and it is in the locked position (steering locked) .. is there a way to disengage this without it being installed on the bike? I'm having a hell of a time getting the deadbolt to retract back into the mechanism. The top with key in still pushes down, and it will retract about 1/8" or so, but won't completely disengage... any trick to this?

EDIT: Disengaged! Literally after writing this and still fooling with it at the computer... it popped back in.. I think I will leave this unlocked from the posts I've read as I'd rather not have to replace the whole switch.. all keys (helmet lock, tank and ignition) are one key... I've started to reassemble now, so more pics soon for you all.

Painted the engine flat black too... nice and stealthy.
 
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