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1981 GS650 clutch assembly

  • Thread starter Thread starter fmctm1sw
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fmctm1sw

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Greetings. I picked up a GS650 a few months ago that sat up a very long time. It was found in a storage shed and has a little under 3000 miles on it. I bought new clutch plates but am having a hard time getting them back in. As I surmise, part number 21 in the attached picture pushes against part number 14 to release pressure on the clutch plates. The issue I have is that part has way too far to travel to push that "pre disk" as it's called. It's almost like there too many clutch pates in it but I have exactly what the diagram shows and that's exactly what came out of it.

The 8 friction clutch plates are NOS and the one I measured was 3.17mm thick. The spec I saw in the manual says standard is 2.7-2.9 but I still don't think that will account for how far it seems off. Does anyone have a few close up pictures of their clutch basket that I can compare?

I appreciate your time. I've worked on primarily '70/early '80s model Hondas and racked up many, many posts over on the Honda SOHC forum.
 

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No , I didn't take mine out! Here's my spare. Pic will probably be upside down on your end, as this iPad gizmo has it's own mind.
 

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Gentlemen, thank you. I did get it figured out eventually. I had to pull that little thing with the teeth out toward the pre-disk before I put the cover on. It takes some touch I guess. I got fresh oil in it and cranked it but I'm not getting spark on cylinder #1. I had spark on cylinder #2. I didn't get to check the other side, I'm out of time for the day but I'm figuring it may be like my honda fours, 1/4 share a coil and 2/3 share.
 
Why in the world would you replace a near brand new clutch?

Yes on the coil sharing. Pull the tank and take a look.
 
Nessism said:
Why in the world would you replace a near brand new clutch?

Yes on the coil sharing. Pull the tank and take a look.
Click to expand...

This picture should explain why the friction plates were all replaced. When I changed the oil, the crankcase was full of gas...

I switched the leads into the coils and both coils work. I also switched the signal generator leads to the igniter and that made no change. Looks like that leaves the igniter unfortunately...

I should also mention I ohm'd out the signal generator as well and was within the range specified by the manual. I see there's a thread currently active in the electrical forum about this as well.
 

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