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1981 GS850 float settings

  • Thread starter Thread starter DaveDanger
  • Start date Start date
D

DaveDanger

Guest
Newbie to the forum, hope to absorb incredible amounts of useful info here :) I have ordered a Clymer's Service Manual for this model, but it has yet to arrive in the mail.
I've recently traded some work for an '81 GS850GLX that needs a small amount of work. It will crank and run, but initially gushed fuel out into the airbox while running. I pulled the entire carb-set and disassembled and cleaned thoroughly with M.E.K. and a fine wire and blew out with compressed air. Reassembled completely with Marvel Mystery? oil for initial lubrication. Reinstalled the carb-set and cranked right up again... still pumping fuel out the small air passage to the right side of the back (airbox end) of the intake of the carbs (all 4). After reassembly, I had plugged a pair of vent T's between the outer pairs of carbs on the advice of a supposed motorcycle carb expert. He claimed they were simply maintenance taps that should be capped during normal operation. After pouring quite an impressive quantity of $3.00/gallon fuel onto the ground outside my shop, I decided to uncap the vent T's. The leakage stopped. I can now crank and run the engine fairly smoothly with no leaks. I'm pretty sure however that the float levels aren't as accurate as they should be. There's a tiny shudder on first acceleration and a bit of an uneven exhaust note. I would greatly appreciate the float height specs on these Mikuni Kogyo C.V. Carbs and any specific suggestions that relate. Also, Can anyone give me an idea where those vent T's should be connected? It seems that maybe there should be a tube routing to the airbox or something of that nature, but until I have that manual in hand, I'm guessing. Right now, I have a 6" long hose attached to each vent T, standing straight up alongside the frame backbone. It works, but very inelegant.
 
I usually make my own float gauge thin piece of plastic or cardboard, just a U shaped to fit over the floats & rest on the carb body. IF YOU DID NOT replace the float valve O rings ?? that is where I would start
 
I replaced all o-rings, seals and gaskets as I reassembled. Also had to repair all the intake tubes on this engine as well. When I first removed the carb-set from the intakes, three of the rubber tubes were still attached to the carb throats. The other one was still attached to the intake base by a small amount. I removed all 4, glass-bead blasted the aluminum base plates, and the end of the rubber tubes as well where they contact the aluminum. Mixed and applied a two-part fuel tank sealing compound that I use for sealing the rivets and lap joints inside an aircraft wing, and glued the parts back together. They're tighter'n socks on an elephant now :) I did receive a direct e-mail from a forum member, giving me the float specs. Re-set those last night. They weren't far off, but I wanted them as perfect as possible before I completed reinstalling all the parts and pieces. Cranks and runs like a fine (Japanese) sewing machine :) I'll be riding around a bit over the next few days on the airport, whilst I await my tag & title paperwork to go through so I can legally cruise the local streets pick'n up wimmin (wife, daughter) and arousing the admiration and envy of the slack-jawed male population (co-workers).
I did finally realize while setting the idle last night that the tachometer wasn't indicating. Pulled the cable housing and extracted the tach cable... in two pieces. The drive coupling at the camshaft end had not stayed crimped to the cable itself, so will order a new one shortly.
Also permanently disabled that incredibly aggravating safety switch built into the left hand grip (Hold clutch to start? I don't think so!)
 
the float level heights should be between ...21.5 and 23.5mm i believe.
 
Thanks Poot, That was basically the spec I was given by another member. Appreciate the follow-up :)
 
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