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1981 Suzuki Gs 650L

  • Thread starter Thread starter lmrmllr89
  • Start date Start date
Got to work on the bike today. Tore the Carbs down some more and have the one soaking in Carb dip right now....removed old exhaust gaskets, have the new exhaust gaskets and new to me exhaust system waiting to be put on,

EA196F65-orig.jpg


The insides of the carbs were not real dirty but decided to dip and rebuild anyhow..

388DEA5E-orig.jpg


After the carbs and exhaust I need to change engine oil and final drive oil, get a new fuel valve, check valve clearances, and then try to run it......
 
Good luck on the project. Hope to see you around chambersburg when ya get it back on the road.
 
one of my coworkers suggested to me that while i have the carbs apart i should go up one jet size since these bikes run a tad lean from factory....is that something i should do or just let it the way it is...(i have stock exhaust and stock airbox with stock filter).
 
Leave it stock. The idle mixture screw settings were what made it super lean so adjust to the highest idle method.
 
Over the last week I have been dipping and soaking the carbs one by one. #3 out of 4 is soaking right now....I'm really impressed by how clean they are getting......pics to come later....

On this parts diagram http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=94351&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1981&fveh=2128

Does anyone know where I could find #79.......mine wasn't leaking but I thought maybe I should replace it since I disturbed it but tearing them apart.......it appears that the part has been discontinued

Is #82 on this diagram the same ?

http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=95217&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1980&fveh=2143


I also took the fuel valve apart and sure enough the diaphragm was ripped a little and allowing fuel through .....so a new fuel valve is in order as I have never had any luck with rebuilds......
 
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Also getting ready to order a new valve cover gasket. Should I get OEM style or a REAL gasket. What about the breather gasket. REAL or OEM style? Thoughts...comments...
 
Also getting ready to order a new valve cover gasket. Should I get OEM style or a REAL gasket. What about the breather gasket. REAL or OEM style? Thoughts...comments...

Some other more experienced guys can confirm, but I'm pretty sure that you can't use the Real Gasket (as I can't either) due to the fact that our tach cable gear plugs in on the valve cover. The Real Gasket is apparently thicker and thus the gear won't mesh up properly.

Mind I've learned all this by reading various posts here, not from experience, but I'm going OEM when I do mine.
 
now that you mention it i do remember hearing that...thanx though i had forgotten

i just ordered oem valve cover and breather cover gaskets....

anyone know the answer to this question

On this parts diagram http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fiche...1981&fveh=2128

Does anyone know where I could find #79.......mine wasn't leaking but I thought maybe I should replace it since I disturbed it but tearing them apart.......it appears that the part has been discontinued

Is #82 on this diagram the same as #79 on the above diagram ?

http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fiche...1980&fveh=2143
 
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Got some time in today....got two of the carbs rebuilt and completedith all screws replaced with Allen head bolts......

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Also took valve cover off and checked valve clearances......most were to tight but after switching some with ones I had on hand I only have two that need new shims.....

ADB83AB8-orig.jpg


I also ordered a new valve cover gasket,breather gasket, and new half moons.......I also bought an auxiliary fuel tank off eBay to make Carb tuning easier:D. And as soon as I get more funds I'll order my Carb boots and fuel valve and assemble everything and fire it up :D:D
 
last night i ordered new carb boots and new fuel valve......now all i have to do is reassemble and install carbs, finish valve adjustment, change the oil, refill final drive oil, install exhaust,and fire it up:D:D

anyone know where i can find a new fuel tee for where the gas line connects to the carbs in the middle??? it seems to be discontinued:mad:
 
Well tonight i got three of the carbs assembled.....

682E041E-orig.jpg


Drained the engine oil

1894E112-orig.jpg


Also cut myself a new ignition cover gasket out of gasket paper

4439A831-orig.jpg
 
well i got the shims and finished the valve adjustment....well sort of..

this had me confused...maybe someone has had this happen before...the one valve had less than .02 mm clearance so i went to the next size thinner and now its at .09 mm so i left it at that figuring it was better loose than tight but why did it jump that much with only changing the shim by .05 mm size difference
 
Did you rotate the engine enough to seat the replacement shim before re-measuring?

Eric
 
i did two complete turns of the cam lobe and i tried it two different time with two different same size shims....same results...
 
i did two complete turns of the cam lobe and i tried it two different time with two different same size shims....same results...
looser is good ,especially if bike has been sitting or ran poorly before, might close down as it runs.
 
Did some work today...installed the new to me exhaust and the freshly oiled air filter......


0C87C2A0-orig.jpg



Also put air box in...just waiting for parts to come in now.....

7D79A6EE-orig.jpg
 
no pics for today(since im at work now).
but friday my last missing part came in and on saturday i assembled the carbs and fired it up....its running great with no hesitation at any point, no smoke or oil coming out tailpipe (like it was before). i rode it about 13 miles saturday and then to work this morning. i will be going over lunch to get the safety inspection don, then other than a few minor adjustments on the carbs she is all done..
 
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