1981 Suzuki GS650E Project or Money pit?

[SuzukiNoob88]

I have a Silver 1981 Suzuki GS650E that I purchased for too much ($475) that runs, but has obvious oil/carbon buildup on exhaust valves, and bike has been sitting for over 10 years in a mechanics garage.

Frame has minor surface rust, as well as most non-aluminum parts and hardware.

Missing alot of high ticket cosmetic items like the fork cover, original signals and headlight, frame covers, mirrors, seat is duct taped and rear seat cover is broken on left side.

Needs exhaust replacement/upgrade. Was thinking MAC 4 to 1 but also found a stock one on ebay with no holes but plenty of surface rust where it goes under crank case.
Can anyone chime in on the value of a 4 to 1 for this particular bike?
I don't really want to be in this thing more than $1000 (including bike) to get it inspected. Needs the following for this:
- Brake rebuild (entire bike)
- Exhaust is disconnected on left side under case
- Mirrors
- Horn works but signal wire is losing voltage somewhere

Currently have spent another $230 on odds and end things like:
- replacement of the oil pan and gasket due to stripped plug ($45)
- Stock USED fuse holder from similar model ($10)
- Clymer's Manual($22)
- New Chain and Sprocket set ($95)
- front and rear master cylinder rebuild kits ($45, K+L)


Am I stuck with a money pit? I know you cant tell from one (upside down) pic.
Hoping to get running and inspected, then do more detailed repairs/restoration this fall and winter.
Should I worry about exhaust valve ports and oil on spark plugs?

 

[tkent02]

Money pit. Sell me the cylinder head and cylinders.

 

[Rob S.]

Money pit.

Fix the brakes, and ride it or sell it. Not another penny. My $.02.

 

[Charlie G]

650e are pretty hard to find! Are you going to recoup your money out of the bike when you sell it, no. Buy a new bike for 10k, put 20k miles on it and sell it for half of the purchase price or put a $1000 in this one and have a nice retro bike you can sell after 20k miles for $1000, if you don't botch it up......

 

[tkent02]

Or just sell me the head.

 

[hillsy]

Ship it to me in Oz - rare as hens teeth over here!

 

[MechMessiah]

Money pit. I can't see you getting that back in shape for under $1000. If you're going to part it out I'd be interested in the tank and the seat pan if they're not rusted out.

 

[Guest]

Your not that far off. Get her back together and start riding. Yes, these old bikes take some cash but are doable

 

[bobgroger]

You are going to find a lot of other things that need to be done. Electrical, brakes, fork seals, wheel bearings, steering stem bearings, chain and sprockets, etc. I plan on a budget of $1000-1500 over the purchase price to get an unknown GS to the point I feel safe taking a 1000 mile trip on it. The newer or nicer the bike, hopefully the less you need to do. Or get used to calling for a tow.

 

[SuzukiNoob88]

Money pit. I can't see you getting that back in shape for under $1000. If you're going to part it out I'd be interested in the tank and the seat pan if they're not rusted out.

How much do most people put into an old suzuki gs for a decent restoration using some non stock parts from aftermarket or other bike models? Because I have noticed the chain model is harder to find parts for.

Also, I'm mainly doing it now as a rideable but ugly starter bike and will have more down time in the winter to tinker with it.

 

[SuzukiNoob88]

Also, I left out mileage which is 25k, and was put on it most likely prior to the 10+ year storage.

What does that mean as far as engine life?

 

[tkent02]

It's almost broken in.

 

[850GT_Rider]

You are going to find a lot of other things that need to be done. Electrical, brakes, fork seals, wheel bearings, steering stem bearings, chain and sprockets, etc. I plan on a budget of $1000-1500 over the purchase price to get an unknown GS to the point I feel safe taking a 1000 mile trip on it. The newer or nicer the bike, hopefully the less you need to do. Or get used to calling for a tow.

A bike that's been sitting for 10 years is BOTH - a project and a money pit, and cannot be considered an investment where you're going to recoup your money. So the decision is - keep it and drop money in, as with any hobby, or part it out.

The $1000 to $1500 to get it running is a reasonable estimate IF you do all the work yourself.

Welcome to the asylum. :topsy_turvy:

 

[MechMessiah]

Also if you don't already own tools that factors into the cost. There's also things like carb cleaner, liquid wrench, replacing fasteners, and all sorts of other things that can nickle and dime you. I'm just doing a top end rebuild on my 650 and I've been keeping a spread sheet of how much I've put into just parts and so far it's around $600. I'm still not done either. That thing needs a whole lot more.

I'd recommend starting with a bike that's in better shape. Maybe if you can find another 650 keep that as a parts bike but other wise part it out and try to make some money back for a running bike.

 

[ShadowFocus603]

I'd make it a project. Who buys motorcycles as an investment? I don't regret a dollar I have spent on any of my numerous bikes.

 

[Buffalo Bill]

If $1000.99 is a money pit, maybe you're lucky to have food and shelter.
Can't imagine how to find a running bike for $999.

 

[850GT_Rider]

If $1000.99 is a money pit, maybe you're lucky to have food and shelter.
Can't imagine how to find a running bike for $999.

True and so I'll edit my response.

By his own admission, the OP is already into it for $705 ($475+$230). An additional $1000 to $1500 would not be a surprise.

 

[SuzukiNoob88]

If $1000.99 is a money pit, maybe you're lucky to have food and shelter.
Can't imagine how to find a running bike for $999.

I'd make it a project. Who buys motorcycles as an investment? I don't regret a dollar I have spent on any of my numerous bikes.

Sorry folks, I guess I am bad at communicating. I definitely didn't buy this to "flip" for a profit after a quick oil change. What i mean when I say "money pit" is the same thing folks mean when they buy a $200 car to commute that wont pass inspection (which this bike doesn't).

Btw, thanks to all of your honest opinions on the matter, because I was afraid to hear some of it, but glad to get straight up answers.

No original plan, because I know that it's rare to find a bike this old (or any bike for that matter) under $1000 ready to ride, was to get it SAFE and Inspected, and then worry about thoroughly running through the mechanical when the fall and winter hits.

I had an 82 Honda CB650 (paid $1300 but was in very good shape, almost no rust) when I got my License 8 years ago, and loved the style of these older Japanese bikes. I really can't see myself riding a crotch rocket, or a laid back cruiser.

I'm definitely not worried about riding more than 50 miles at a time, and maybe an occasional commute if I can get it SAFE and road-worthy.

UPDATE: I have currently torn into the calipers and don't need pistons, just seal kits for all 3 at the most, and pads in front look almost new.
Both master cylinder kits on the way and also have swing arm bearings coming.

 

[SuzukiNoob88]

Found that front calipers, after opening them up, have almost perfect pistons, seals seem spongy, they weren't leaking originally, and all slide boots and dust seals are in good shape. Would anyone recommend putting the originals back in, or is that a taboo thing? It's 50 bucks i would save, but I bought them with my safety in mind.

Also, found one of my swing arm needle bearings was completely shot, so i decided to remove both of them and throw in a grease fitting near top weld to pivot for future greasing.

Tomorrow I plan on rebuilding both MC's, putting in OEM fuse box from a gs450, replacing positive terminal lead with proper crimp fitting (currently has oversized terminal connector).

Anyone with a good source for hardware other than EBAY or McMaster-Carr let me know, need to replace some frame mount bolts, exhaust bolts, and small JIS screws.

 

[jdvorchak]

I use Ace Hardware for Metric fasteners. Occasionally I'll check the local Suzuki dealer for parts I can't source otherwise. More than that I use eBay and look for free shipping and a "power seller" status. I get my metric tools at Harbor Freight and any specialty tools on eBay and look for Motion Pro brand.

PB Blaster is the best penetrating oil I've found for rusty fasteners. I clean chrome with plain white vinegar and crumpled up aluminum foil. Cheap window cleaner is what I use to clean all of those surfaces under the tank and side covers etc. The local O'Reilly auto parts store sells me their house brand brake cleaner in case lots (12 cans)for less than $2 per can. I also search google for carb dip and then get a local store to price match. All of the auto parts chain stores price match.

Get a small container and fill it with vinegar and let all electrical connectors soak for 15 to 30 minutes. They come out looking new and the wires are clean and shiny and you can actually see the color and stripes. Get a plastic cup filled with tap water and swish them around for a few seconds and blow them dry. Vinegar won't hurt a single surface on a motorcycle but will clean everything.