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1982 1100 E - TEMPERATURE Question

Gregory

Gregory

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
I have a friend who just got a 1982 1100e and told me that he was sitting at a stop light yesterday and felt a lot of heat off the engine and noticed the temp gauge was up to 280 F.

It stayed up that high even after getting going down the road. He said the gauge only goes to 300, so he is worried that with the coming Texas heat, he may have problems.

The bike is stock with no oil cooler. What is the normal operating temp for his bike? Is there anything he should watch out for?
 
Mine ran at that temp stock. When I installed a cooler, temps dropped dramatically. A must do, IMHO, but opinions vary.
 
Are the 1100E's water cooled???
I rode a GS650 in Phoenix and remember hot legs, not the sexy kind either!!!!
 
Badooka said:
Are the 1100E's water cooled???
Click to expand...
:-k

If its TX HOT (100F) that does not seem out of the question. Mine has gone that high in slow traffic on a hot day. Tell him if hes in traffic that often he should stay on top of the oil recommend for high temps. GSRs recommends Rotella T15W40

I work with airplanes whose engines (air cooled) typically climb out, full power, on a hot day at 400f.
 
Yep- I used Valvoline 20W-50 and added an STP oil treatment to that in AZ- 120 ambient wasn't uncommon- like a hair dryer in the face. Bike had zero issues. Changed it every 1K miles. Use Rotella in everything now.
 
Mine runs about 220-230 depending how you read the scale, actually runs with that horizontal needle about 0900 (9 o'clock). I run cooler plugs in it now. It used to run very hot, so hot that it bothered me, but it was very hot outside anyway, 100 degrees or so. It hasn't been that hot yet this year so I would expect a little more upside to what I'm getting now. But these engines run very hot normally I've come to believe.
 
sedelen said:
Mine runs about 220-230 depending how you read the scale, actually runs with that horizontal needle about 0900 (9 o'clock). I run cooler plugs in it now. It used to run very hot, so hot that it bothered me, but it was very hot outside anyway, 100 degrees or so. It hasn't been that hot yet this year so I would expect a little more upside to what I'm getting now. But these engines run very hot normally I've come to believe.
Click to expand...

It gets worse with 1166, A cooler helps. Also (and this has been contested by many without any evidence) the Compufire dramatically lowered my operating temp. Alternatively if you mount an oil sprayer onto the stator the temp will also drop.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=161397


you will notice the sprayer location here (approx 8:00). You need to get between the rotor and the stator without hitting the rotor. There is an oil line running from my top end oiler distribution block. With 750 gears I run a reduced sized orifice (about 0.100" as I recall located at the block)

IMG_5827_zps36153cc1.jpg
 
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250 to 280 is about where the Cooley guage falls in the 95 to 100 degree days. And you have rode the Cooley Greg..do you think that not having an oil cooler has had any adverse effects on the bike??? LMAO. I thought you would say no!!!
 
I wouldnt trust the stock sensors and gauges too much. I swapped gauges on mine and temps shown dropped 100 deg or so:rolleyes:
 
gearhead13 said:
I wouldnt trust the stock sensors and gauges too much. I swapped gauges on mine and temps shown dropped 100 deg or so:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

I verified the resistance measurements of both the sensor (v.s. temp) and the gauge according to the manual.

And without a change of the gauge, the indicated temperature did drop substantially. I also have a VDO temp gauge, not sure I want to add it to the mix.
 
The gauges are not accurate. My 11E runs @ 190 ish area in 75-80 deg temps. It probably is NOT 180. It is more like 210/220.

I would check the oil pick up screen on that hot bike + use heavier oil, & an oil cooler if going south
 
I tested the gauge in my first 1000S as shown below. Used boiling water. The gauge needle indicated a little above the 200F mark. Pretty darn close if you ask me.

 
Was wondering if one could get an accurate temp reading by shooting a running engine with an infrared thermometer... and where on the motor would offer the best read (casing, head, exhausts...)?
Have an oil cooler that will be added this summer, as i've experience 300? + temp gauge readings :eek:
 
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Frank Z. said:
Was wondering if one could get an accurate temp reading by shooting a running engine with an infrared thermometer... and where on the motor would offer the best read (casing, head, exhausts...)?
Have an oil cooler that will be added this summer, as i've experience 300? + temp gauge readings :eek:
Click to expand...

I have one of those nifty little gauges, it looks like a ordinary tire pressure gauge except shorter. It's good for a ballpark reading, but the temps vary greatly depending where you shoot it. I use it on my exhausts but those readings are all different depending on which pipe you shoot.
The stock sending unit just uses the oil temperature as I'm sure you know.
 
sedelen said:
I have one of those nifty little gauges, it looks like a ordinary tire pressure gauge except shorter. It's good for a ballpark reading, but the temps vary greatly depending where you shoot it. I use it on my exhausts but those readings are all different depending on which pipe you shoot.
The stock sending unit just uses the oil temperature as I'm sure you know.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Steve. So, maybe get a reading close to the sending unit on casing is the way to go(?) Have access to a good quality infrared thermo and will give 'er a shot this week... when TX temps hit a balmy 100?
 
Not looking to start another Oil Thread, but high sump temps are why I use synthetic oil. Synthetic thins less at high temps, so it protects better when the oil gets really hot.

Regarding Jim's claim that the stator heats up the oil significantly, I have both a shunt and series R/R, and plan to do some comparison testing this summer. It's hard for me to imagine that the R/R is running hotter than the engine oil, but proof is in the testing. Coming soon...
 
Proof is in the PUDDING Ed...problem is they dont specify what flavor gives the best proof.
 
Nessism said:
Not looking to start another Oil Thread, but high sump temps are why I use synthetic oil. Synthetic thins less at high temps, so it protects better when the oil gets really hot.

Regarding Jim's claim that the stator heats up the oil significantly, I have both a shunt and series R/R, and plan to do some comparison testing this summer. It's hard for me to imagine that the R/R is running hotter than the engine oil, but proof is in the testing. Coming soon...
Click to expand...

Ed, I have repeated this several time that the temperature changes appear to be most with big block engines. Specifically a 1075 will not see the same temperature drop as the amount on an 1166. I have already posted my findings.

If you do this on a 1000 I'm not sure you will see as much but I'm sure you will construct a suitable test. rereading Wheat dogs thread, he has a stock 1100 and he got about 20-30 degree reduction so that is probably an upper bound for the smaller engine.

Posplayr
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FOR A Warm Running 16V GS1100/1150. For you naysayers out there. There is a significant temperature drop if you are running stock in the 250-270 degF range (My 1166 went down to 210-220 degF max).
Click to expand...


Installed Compufire RR - Way Cool!!
With stock shunt RR engine temp was usually around 200-210 deg F. Installed Compufire Series RR per Posplayr's tutorial and am showing large engine temp drop. My '83 1100E temp gauge now has the needle showing just above the first line at the 160 deg F end of the gauge. 180 deg maybe?? Anyhoo, the install was not hard and mucho gratis to Posplayr for the instructions. The Compufire works better than an oil cooler. Hoping this allows long stator life as well since it appears it's no longer smoking hot.

Mike
Click to expand...

P.S. Nice test to confirm the 210 degF level. ;)

I think I used a cooking thermometer :(
 
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Frank Z. said:
Thanks, Steve. So, maybe get a reading close to the sending unit on casing is the way to go(?) Have access to a good quality infrared thermo and will give 'er a shot this week... when TX temps hit a balmy 100?
Click to expand...

Remove the oil fill cap and shoot down inside of there, easiest way to get an internal reading.
 
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