A
Andrew Stano
Guest
first time on-line 2 quick questions #1 what is the engine oil capacity on 1982 GS 1100 GL-Z? and # 2 how hard is it to change the clutch on this model ?Any help appreciated !!Thanks Andrew
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S
saddlewarmer
Guest
3 liters for oil capacity, clutch changout isn't too hard, just look at a service manual. the one for a 850 will darn near give you all the info for the 1100. i own both, 82- gs850glz and gs1100glz.
B
BassCliff
Guest
Hey howdy hey!
Hey howdy hey!
Hi Mr. Andrew Stano,
The crankcase capacity is usually embossed right there near the oil fill plug. My manual says to add another 600ml or so if you change the oil filter too. Check your manual to be sure.
I can see by your post count, and by your own admission, that you are new here. So that entitles you to your very own reformulated, reconstituted, bio-degradable mega-welcome! \\
/
Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)!
Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr. And if your bike uses shims for valve adjustments, send an email to Mr. Steve requesting a copy of his Excel spreadsheet that helps you keep track of clearances, shim sizes and other service work.
These are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Carburetor maintenance:
Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:
http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html
Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:
http://cycleorings.com/intake.html
You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:
http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm
***********************************
Every GS850 has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.
These common issues are:
1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
***************************************
OEM Parts/Online Fiches:
I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.
Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:
http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Additional parts/info links:
GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php
http://www.electrosport.com/
The Rice Paddy (salvage/used)
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com
Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com
MR Cycles
http://www.mrcycles.com
Moto Grid
http://www.motogrid.com
If all else fails, try this:
http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/
Used bike buying checklists:
http://www.amadirectlink.com/roadride/Riderresc/checklist.asp
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html
Lots of good info/pictures here:
http://www.suzukicycles.org
http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Wiki
Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)
Hey howdy hey!
Hi Mr. Andrew Stano,
The crankcase capacity is usually embossed right there near the oil fill plug. My manual says to add another 600ml or so if you change the oil filter too. Check your manual to be sure.
I can see by your post count, and by your own admission, that you are new here. So that entitles you to your very own reformulated, reconstituted, bio-degradable mega-welcome! \\
/Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)!
Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr. And if your bike uses shims for valve adjustments, send an email to Mr. Steve requesting a copy of his Excel spreadsheet that helps you keep track of clearances, shim sizes and other service work.
These are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Carburetor maintenance:
Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:
http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html
Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:
http://cycleorings.com/intake.html
You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:
http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm
***********************************
Every GS850 has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.
These common issues are:
1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
***************************************
OEM Parts/Online Fiches:
I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.
Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:
http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Additional parts/info links:
GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php
http://www.electrosport.com/
The Rice Paddy (salvage/used)
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com
Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com
MR Cycles
http://www.mrcycles.com
Moto Grid
http://www.motogrid.com
If all else fails, try this:
http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/
Used bike buying checklists:
http://www.amadirectlink.com/roadride/Riderresc/checklist.asp
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html
Lots of good info/pictures here:
http://www.suzukicycles.org
http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Wiki
Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)
Andrew,
Welcome to GSR.
Changing clutch plates, is not hard. If you have changed oil, changed sparkplugs, changed air filter and such, I would say that changing the clutch plates is the next on the list as far as mechanical dificulty. Is definitaly well ahaead on the list of valve shim adjustment or head gasket replacement. So clutch plates repalcement is the next thing you might try.
Most difficult part of clutch plate replacment will be getting all those screws to break loose on the cover without breaking or compltely messing up the screw heads. Most likley are not going to do it with just a screw driver, will want at least one of those impact drivers that you hit with hammer - big hammer. ANd plan on replacing a lot of the screws maybe (some folks would recommnd the kit of allen head screws). And then then other fun part is keeping track of which screws go where as some are longer than others.
You do want to do this yourself. The charge for this at a shop would be quite a lot. If you are going to have an old bike like this, you need to do these things yourself (or have a buddy help out, or find a new buddy here on GSR).
So, yah, get a manaul (I prefere Clymers). And post any other problem you run acroast.
Other comment: if you have the least suspecion that you need to replace the clutch, you notice the rpm increase but not the speed .... it is probably slipping even more than you can tell. After you replace it, you will almost have to learn to ride it all over again, will be soo much better.
Further comment: You seem to question the Z in the GS1100GLZ. The G is for shaft drive model, the L is for the cruiser style, and the Z is the year desingnation for 82 (other years have other letters, like T is for 1980). Often the year designation letter isnt listed in catalogs, is redundant to the year.
Welcome to GSR.
Changing clutch plates, is not hard. If you have changed oil, changed sparkplugs, changed air filter and such, I would say that changing the clutch plates is the next on the list as far as mechanical dificulty. Is definitaly well ahaead on the list of valve shim adjustment or head gasket replacement. So clutch plates repalcement is the next thing you might try.
Most difficult part of clutch plate replacment will be getting all those screws to break loose on the cover without breaking or compltely messing up the screw heads. Most likley are not going to do it with just a screw driver, will want at least one of those impact drivers that you hit with hammer - big hammer. ANd plan on replacing a lot of the screws maybe (some folks would recommnd the kit of allen head screws). And then then other fun part is keeping track of which screws go where as some are longer than others.
You do want to do this yourself. The charge for this at a shop would be quite a lot. If you are going to have an old bike like this, you need to do these things yourself (or have a buddy help out, or find a new buddy here on GSR).
So, yah, get a manaul (I prefere Clymers). And post any other problem you run acroast.
Other comment: if you have the least suspecion that you need to replace the clutch, you notice the rpm increase but not the speed .... it is probably slipping even more than you can tell. After you replace it, you will almost have to learn to ride it all over again, will be soo much better.
Further comment: You seem to question the Z in the GS1100GLZ. The G is for shaft drive model, the L is for the cruiser style, and the Z is the year desingnation for 82 (other years have other letters, like T is for 1980). Often the year designation letter isnt listed in catalogs, is redundant to the year.
Last edited:
Steve
GS Whisperer
Just a quick heads-up that might save you a bit of money ...
You might not need clutch plates, only springs. It might keep the bike out of service longer, but take the clutch apart, as Redman has suggested, then measure the thickness of the friction plates with calipers or a micrometer. Chances are they are not very worn. If that is the case, you can get a set of clutch springs for $20 or less, toss in a gasket and some improved retention hardware (get a set of stainless, allen-head bolts from Z1 Enterprises) and you will be good to go.
.
You might not need clutch plates, only springs. It might keep the bike out of service longer, but take the clutch apart, as Redman has suggested, then measure the thickness of the friction plates with calipers or a micrometer. Chances are they are not very worn. If that is the case, you can get a set of clutch springs for $20 or less, toss in a gasket and some improved retention hardware (get a set of stainless, allen-head bolts from Z1 Enterprises) and you will be good to go.
.
Yes, this. The clutch plates last dang near forever unless you frequent the local dragstrip.
All you need is a set of stock clutch springs. Don't even disassemble the rest of the clutch -- just replace the springs one at a time and see where that gets ya.
After 25 years under tension, the stock springs sag a bit. That's all.
8
82Shafty
Guest
Is it slipping and have you checked the cable adjustment?
I ended up scuffing my steels, installed new OEM springs with new hardware and stacked washers for a bit of extra measure; all has been well this season.
My hub nut was loose which I installed a new OEM nut and washer. If you order new screws, order washers as well.
I ended up scuffing my steels, installed new OEM springs with new hardware and stacked washers for a bit of extra measure; all has been well this season.
My hub nut was loose which I installed a new OEM nut and washer. If you order new screws, order washers as well.
A
Andrew Stano
Guest
WOW,what a warm welcome thanks to all for the valuable info, will definitely help with maintaining this bike !!! Not quite ready for the clutch job yet but all the info helps.
2 more questions
#1- I put Castrol 20W50 engine oil in my rig it has 40,000kms as opposed to recomended 10W40 is this OK-do you fore-see any problems using the heavier oil??
#2- I need to order an air filter and a pet-cock for the 82 GS 1100GLZ, where is the best value for money to order these items?
2 more questions
#1- I put Castrol 20W50 engine oil in my rig it has 40,000kms as opposed to recomended 10W40 is this OK-do you fore-see any problems using the heavier oil??
#2- I need to order an air filter and a pet-cock for the 82 GS 1100GLZ, where is the best value for money to order these items?
S
seuadr
Guest
only problems i could foresee would be your clutches are wet and may be affected by it slightly when cold.. same for your upper engine. When starting from cold the oil will take longer to circulate than a thinner wright range oil. i would imagine as long as you were not full throttle starting and giving it a chance to warm appreciably it wouldn't be a huge issue. i'm by no means an expert, though!