1982 GS1100EZ Phase II

[slayer61]

I was just about to post this and I thought of two more things I've done.

The bike doesn't really look that outrageously modified, does it? This seems like a long list.

-Kevin

**I just bought the rearsets last night on eBay. Might take me a while to get them installed.**

You, sir, are a very brave man! My wife has very little idea what I spend on bike parts!

 

[posplayr]

You, sir, are a very brave man! My wife has very little idea what I spend on bike parts!

It is a smoke screen; it actually much worse.

 

[CivilRock]

You, sir, are a very brave man! My wife has very little idea what I spend on bike parts!

A. my wife will never see this.
B. I think the $ part of the adventure is important. It's part of the hunt.
3. What this doesn't show is the profits from all the stock parts that I sold.
IV. For instance, I sold my 1100 motor for $600, bought the 1150 for $700.
~. At one point in 2010 I sold the bike for $1950 and bought it back 3 months later for $450 crashed.
G. I have not paid for one set of tires on this bike. All are free DOT race take-offs from race buddies.
7. Compared to road racing, this is peanuts.
iiv. I support this by making stuff in my garage at night. www.forkrack.com

-Kevin

 

[Rob S.]

I support this by making stuff in my garage at night. www.forkrack.com

-Kevin

Is that a rumble seat?

 

[CivilRock]

Well, successfully mounted my eBay ZX12R rear sets, and now I have a kickstand problem because of it.

I also mounted the bottom hole of this one just a little back and it's tilting the whole rearset up a little. I thought that it wouldn't make much difference, or that I wouldn't notice. It's about 3/4" higher than the other side. If I never would have noticed or measured it, I probably wouldn't ever care. Now that I know about it, it's going to bug me! But that's the beauty of working with heavy steel, I can just weld on an extension and redrill/tap the bottom hole.

Here's my problem. The kickstand interferes with my toe when I try and put my shoe under the shifter. The whole time I was setting it up, I had the kickstand out of the way. Not sure what I'm going to do to remedy the situation. I don't want the kickstand to drag on the ground. The best solution would be to cut the mounting bracket from the frame and move it back about 8 inches. I was about to remove the center stand as well, because with the extra ride height (added longer shocks) now the chain rubs on the center stand. I should just delete both and lean my bike stuff when I need to ride.

 

[CivilRock]

Found another use for my mini lathe. These button head bolts were just a hair too wide to sit down in the recesses of the rearsets. Voila!

 

[Rob S.]

As a fellow 1100EZ owner, I say ditch the centerstand. I bought my Suzi six months ago without one, and I don't miss the extra weight one bit. I bought a cheapo ("Trackside") rear paddock stand for $29.99, and everything is groovy.

Now the sidestand, that I would miss. A lot!

PS I love your bike! More pics! More pics!

 

[CivilRock]

Thanks Rob. I'm sending off the seat today to get recovered. Sucks because the weather here is freaking awesome right now. I might be bundling up some towels as a seat. If I knew I wasn't going to buy another Corbin, I wouldn't have sold the one I had!

Here's a pic for you. I have stands. I'm just a center stand kind of guy. But now that I raised the ride height in the rear, the bike sits better on the side stand. Before it was kind of sketchy.

I found the front stand buried in my shed and bought a rear for $50 off craigslist.

Oh, and I am going to ditch the center stand. I'll just keep the rear stand handy in the garage. I can't wait to see how much weight I shed with these rearsets. The massive aluminum passenger peg mounts are huge.

-Kevin

 

[CivilRock]

I filled, drilled, tapped, and re-cut the plate twice on the right side, and no less than 5 times on the left side before I got it where I wanted.

I thought I was going to nail it the first try. I don't need no stinkin' plexiglass facsimiles. Whoa, was I wrong. The biggest problem is that the rearsets are not symmetrical. The V-shape is, and they look the same, but upon closer examination, the left peg is 1/2" higher. This was driving me cray-cray until I figured it out.

Pegs are with in 1/8" height now, and look like almost the same mounting height if you don't look at both sides at the same time. Which will only happen on the internet.

I'm going to just add a little spacer at the kickstand hinge to drop the kickstand arm down about 1" when it's in it's retracted position. That gives me enough room to get my toe under the shift lever, and still keep the kickstand high enough to keep from scraping. And yes Rob S., I ditched the center stand.

I sent off my seat and tail section for a new cover/shape. Really glad it started raining here or I'd be super jonesing for a ride. Really anxious to get it back, and hoping to be amazed.

A good eye will see a missing critical bolt. Not to worry, it's in my pocket so I can find a better looking one at the hardware store.

I still need to fabricate an exhaust hanger, but I know exactly how I'm going to do it.

-kevin

 

[MK3Brent]

Kevin,

I too ran into a kick-stand issue.
My purposed solution is to either A. Cut off the mounting point and relocate the kickstand farther to the FRONT to totally clear the assembly, or 2. Buy something like this:

Simply clamp it around the lower tube, and position it in a place that won't interfere.

Could even put it on the right side to be English.

 

[CivilRock]

That's a good idea. I'm wondering if that shorter and straighter kickstand would bolt right up to the OEM spot and solve the issue. The stock stand has quite a sweep to it.

I like your numbering system.

I was thinking that I just ride sans stand and have my race crew follow me everywhere I go, jump out of a van, and put me on the rear stand every time I pull into a coffee shop or something.

I put a dab of weld on the contact point of the kickstand. It's down a little, but I'll have to test ride to see if it's enough. I'm sure I can find a happy medium between dragging and cramping.

-Kevin

 

[MK3Brent]

That's a good idea. I'm wondering if that shorter and straighter kickstand would bolt right up to the OEM spot and solve the issue. The stock stand has quite a sweep to it.

I like your numbering system.

I was thinking that I just ride sans stand and have my race crew follow me everywhere I go, jump out of a van, and put me on the rear stand every time I pull into a coffee shop or something.

I put a dab of weld on the contact point of the kickstand. It's down a little, but I'll have to test ride to see if it's enough. I'm sure I can find a happy medium between dragging and cramping.

-Kevin

What I'm doing right now is, take out the kickstand and put it in my backpack. When I need to park, just take it out, and throw it in with a screw driver through the hole. Works fine for now.

 

[CivilRock]

What I'm doing right now is, take out the kickstand and put it in my backpack. When I need to park, just take it out, and throw it in with a screw driver through the hole. Works fine for now.

That's keepin' it real.

I think I'm going to try and fabricate just the stand arm. If it doesn't have that sweeping arc to it, I think it will tuck up in there nicely. I took a long look at it this morning, and even if I moved it all the way forward or back on the frame rail, it's still going to be in the way. And I'd rather not cut/weld on the frame right there and ruin my powdercoating if I can avoid it.

Brent, can you do some engineering analysis and design for my kickstand? Is cast iron stronger than mild steel? I'm going to assume nearest the pivot point needs to be the strongest part.

I might have to really think about this, as I don't want to test my fabrication skills and have my bike laying on it's side in a parking lot.

-Kevin

 

[CivilRock]

I could build something like this pretty easily.
Or shoot, for $34 buy this one and cut it to length.
-K

 

[MK3Brent]

That's keepin' it real.

I think I'm going to try and fabricate just the stand arm. If it doesn't have that sweeping arc to it, I think it will tuck up in there nicely. I took a long look at it this morning, and even if I moved it all the way forward or back on the frame rail, it's still going to be in the way. And I'd rather not cut/weld on the frame right there and ruin my powdercoating if I can avoid it.

Brent, can you do some engineering analysis and design for my kickstand? Is cast iron stronger than mild steel? I'm going to assume nearest the pivot point needs to be the strongest part.

I might have to really think about this, as I don't want to test my fabrication skills and have my bike laying on it's side in a parking lot.

-Kevin

Hi, Kevin.
Sorry I didn't see this post until now.

Carbon steel has (generally) less shear strength properties vs. cast iron.

But really, consider the forces. Either materials should work fine, as long as you're not shocking the kickstand mounting tab. Remember, your interface is still going to be carbon steel if welded to the tube of the bike.

Hope this helps.

 

[GSX1000E]

Why not just weld a bead on the kickstand rest and grind to finish so that the kickstand rides just a wee bit lower in the seated position?

 

[Rob S.]

What I'm doing right now is, take out the kickstand and put it in my backpack. When I need to park, just take it out, and throw it in with a screw driver through the hole. Works fine for now.

And I thought I was 'roughing it' by riding without a center stand!

 

[MK3Brent]

And I thought I was 'roughing it' by riding without a center stand!

Please don't get me wrong... this is a huge pain in the ass and is getting old quick! I think I'm going to get a bolt on affair much like posted above. might put mine on the right side because of clearance being the best there.

 

[CivilRock]

Why not just weld a bead on the kickstand rest and grind to finish so that the kickstand rides just a wee bit lower in the seated position?

That's exactly what I did. It's still not low enough, and I sat there for quite some time trying to figure out how low it needs to be and not only will it look weird with the kickstand 25% deployed, it will probably scrape the ground.

I even thought that I could just nudge it down with my toe as I shifted, but it's too hard, and it takes too long. That might sound super picky, but adding 1 second onto a .125 second action is too long.

I'm going to build a new kickstand that will tuck under the frame better and use the existing mounting tab. That's the plan anyway.

On a different note, one of my long time buddies was looking over the list of parts my bike has, noted that the list of original parts is much shorter than the list of existing parts. I thought that was amusing... and true.

1. Frame
2. Tank
3. Body
4. tail light
5. headlight

There's more little stuff, but not much.
-Kevin


2004

2014

 

[T8erbug]

I haven't had a chance to go through the whole build thread but the first page looks good, man! I dig the bike so far. Keep up the good work