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1982 gs1100g volts drop

  • Thread starter Thread starter crpowell67
  • Start date Start date
C

crpowell67

Guest
Okay my ride 82 suzuki gs1100g let me start from begining a couple weeks ago I left key in the ignition and turned on, it was there for a couple weeks like that. I took the battery out last night charged it up or so i thought placed it in and nothing no Lights at all. I hooked up my MM and tested volts it only showed 6.1 - 6.3 and when turned key went to 1.4 - 2.3 I figure I burnt the battery up leaving the key in and on just wondering if this would be other peoples conclusions to or if I should check other stuff to I did take battery out and recharged again till charger said charged and tested with MM again out of bike and read the same. so I do know I need a new battery but with battery bad will this cause drops when key is turned or should I look for a short to
 
did you use a trickle charger or something with an amp meter (2-4 amps)?
Clearly It is not charged and I would not expect a trickle charger to help it. If you did a good charge then it it is history.
 
So, you left key on, so headlight and other lights on for days. That Would run battery flat-no-charge-at-all.
Would not "burn out" the battery.
But while it sits flat with no charge for a time, bad things can happen, like chemical reactions happen, (over weeks) and ... if the case is clear, maybe can see white stuff forming on the plates ... and if so will not charge back up.

Good that you have voltmeter. Your readings indicate that it is was not fully charged. And when you turn on the key, the voltage dropping further would be expected just because the battery is not fully charged.

Now the question is, can the battery be charged.

Yah, a little 1.5amp charger like that you would have to leave on for full day. (14 AmpHour battery, 1.5amps, yah, 10-12 hours at least, 20 better)
And Some of those "maintainers" are such that if the battery is flat dead-no-charge, the chargers reverse-polarity-prevention will not even allow it to even start to charge.

If you are going to now use, say, a 6 amp charger (not recommend), do not leave it on for more than a couple hours. Or better yet, just an hour, then go back to the little one for several hours till it indicates fully charged.

Oh, you did not say anything about checking the fluid, or say anything about what type of battery it is.


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Personally, I would not waste any more time on your new boat anchor. :-k

A battery that has had a several-amp drain for a couple of weeks is now just that, a boat anchor.

Get a new battery. Splurge, get a sealed AGM battery. That is not a brand, that is a type of battery.

You can order one online for about $40 or go to Auto Zone and get one for about $80.

It will be just a bit more ($85?) at Batteries Plus, that is where I get mine.

.
 
Steve said:
Personally, I would not waste any more time on your new boat anchor. :-k

A battery that has had a several-amp drain for a couple of weeks is now just that, a boat anchor.

Get a new battery. Splurge, get a sealed AGM battery. That is not a brand, that is a type of battery.

You can order one online for about $40 or go to Auto Zone and get one for about $80.

It will be just a bit more ($85?) at Batteries Plus, that is where I get mine.

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Click to expand...

Yea it is a slim change, but at this point.................
 
Steve is right except for one thing - they are useless anchors for many reasons not least is killing the fish.
As said already your charger could be refusing to charge because the battery is flat. If you want to experiment there is a lot of stuff out there to try from herbal remedies to deep freezing to hammering to descale the plates ?!?. One way is to rig a good battery in parallel with the flat unit and let the charger see both. You should understand the risks of overheating, gassing out, acid burns and Armageddon in general. I would have a go. Nothing to lose and maybe learn something new. No livestock or children within 100ft.
If successful, most likely you will have an impaired battery which you'll end up replacing after chasing mystery electrical problems.
 
Okay last night I put it on my better charger this one ----> http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-Electric-2-10-50-Amp-6-12V-Battery-Charger/25955532 It supposed to set amps automatically to 2-10-or 50 amp so assuming it set to 2 amps I left it on till the green light came on saying charged I kept it in my view so i could see right when it changed after about 3 hours give or take it switched so I removed charger and tested and same readings 6.1 - 6.3 I am gonna go out later today and pick up a new battery from my local shop instead of walmart (I know Walmart that's my problem...lol)
 
Brendan W said:
Steve is right except for one thing - they are useless anchors for many reasons not least is killing the fish.
As said already your charger could be refusing to charge because the battery is flat. If you want to experiment there is a lot of stuff out there to try from herbal remedies to deep freezing to hammering to descale the plates ?!?. One way is to rig a good battery in parallel with the flat unit and let the charger see both. You should understand the risks of overheating, gassing out, acid burns and Armageddon in general. I would have a go. Nothing to lose and maybe learn something new. No livestock or children within 100ft.
If successful, most likely you will have an impaired battery which you'll end up replacing after chasing mystery electrical problems.
Click to expand...

Brendan is right, except for one thing. When that thing blows up, it won't just be the fish that are in danger of lead poisoning.
tongue.gif.pagespeed.ce.aK_TK6uv0P.gif


The term "boat anchor" was used figuratively, rather than literally. Even if you do see a decent voltage after a charge, you will not have much (if any) cranking power to speak of.

If you have the time and initiative, go ahead and play with it, but please do it safely.
righton.gif.pagespeed.ce.-r7mnTcTEv.gif


.
 
crpowell67 said:
.....................
................................................................I left it on till the green light came on saying charged I kept it in my view so i could see right when it changed after about 3 hours give or take it switched so I removed charger and tested and same readings 6.1 - 6.3 I am gonna go out later today and pick up a new battery ........
Click to expand...

Good.


. . . .
 
Okay got my new battery closes to what service manual says it is supposed to be, it said YB14L-A2 I got a CB14L-A2 I was figuring the YB and CB are manufacture specific and all the technical stuff matched up charging now in my view after it charges I will let you know of outcome.
 
crpowell67 said:
Okay last night I put it on my better charger this one ----> http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-Electric-2-10-50-Amp-6-12V-Battery-Charger/25955532 It supposed to set amps automatically to 2-10-or 50 amp so assuming it set to 2 amps I left it on till the green light came on saying charged I kept it in my view so i could see right when it changed after about 3 hours give or take it switched so I removed charger and tested and same readings 6.1 - 6.3 I am gonna go out later today and pick up a new battery from my local shop instead of walmart (I know Walmart that's my problem...lol)
Click to expand...

At the risk of oversimplifying it you could rationalise this result by saying that the discharged battery allowed sulphate crystals to stabilise and form a conducting sludge in the bottom of some cells effectively shorting them. You could then say that at approx 2V per cell you have lost three leaving you with only three functioning cells.
 
Brendan W said:
At the risk of oversimplifying it you could rationalise this result by saying that the discharged battery allowed sulphate crystals to stabilise and form a conducting sludge in the bottom of some cells effectively shorting them. You could then say that at approx 2V per cell you have lost three leaving you with only three functioning cells.
Click to expand...


Or it is a boat anchor.................
 
Steve said:
Brendan is right, except for one thing. When that thing blows up, it won't just be the fish that are in danger of lead poisoning.
tongue.gif.pagespeed.ce.aK_TK6uv0P.gif


The term "boat anchor" was used figuratively, rather than literally. Even if you do see a decent voltage after a charge, you will not have much (if any) cranking power to speak of.

If you have the time and initiative, go ahead and play with it, but please do it safely.
righton.gif.pagespeed.ce.-r7mnTcTEv.gif


.
Click to expand...

Just been looking at pics of a badly burned 'busa. Batteries blew up. Checking around the web I might be rethinking my have a go approach when you see the injuries and damage. They can't all have been one in a million.
 
well this really sucks I put the battery in and went to start it and would not start I seen smoke and stopped time to find the short or if anyone has a gs1100g or close I could use a picture of the left side3 by the solenoid to make sure I have wires hooked up right I took all them off when I was checking wires while the battery was charging
 
crpowell67 said:
well this really sucks I put the battery in and went to start it and would not start I seen smoke and stopped time to find the short or if anyone has a gs1100g or close I could use a picture of the left side3 by the solenoid to make sure I have wires hooked up right I took all them off when I was checking wires while the battery was charging
Click to expand...

Hum... might the difference between CB14L-A2 and YB14L-A2 battery be which side has the positive and the negative....?




Red Cable from Solenoid to Batt+

Black Cable from back of engine and maybe small black/white wire to Batt-




or you looking for picture for more than the battery connections...?




.
 
Check that the lugs on the cables on top of the solenoid are not touching the battery box or solenoid backing plate. It's easy to let the one on the left ( forward) side rotate into the box as you tighten it up.
Where exactly was the smoke coming from? Check that the post on the starter motor is at two o'clock. I've seen motors reassembled with the post at twelve , shorting out to the cover plate. Take off the cover on the starter motor and check that the power cable hasn't worn insulation any where on it's run down from the solenoid.
Afaik the position of the pos and neg terminals is the same for CB14 and YB14. Neg forward left. Pos rear left.

PS Should have asked do you get lights and oil warnings with ign on , does it make any attempt to crank, does the solenoid click with the start button and is the smoke before or after the start button is pressed.
 
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Redman said:
Hum... might the difference between CB14L-A2 and YB14L-A2 battery be which side has the positive and the negative....?




Red Cable from Solenoid to Batt+

Black Cable from back of engine and maybe small black/white wire to Batt-




or you looking for picture for more than the battery connections...?





.
Click to expand...
The battery terminals are positive on right what I have on solenoid is red wire from battery and fuse box on same post ( not sure if that is right) and the ground from battery to other post.
 
Here is some pics that might help the one with writing in it used to be a black with white stripe wire all i had was different wires to try and piece it together

DSC_0822.jpg

guess i can only put one photo per post
 
DSC_0824.jpg hope it is okay to post multiple but i think it might help in finding problem
 
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