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1982 gs550l dyna s...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Defore
  • Start date Start date
D

Defore

Guest
OK so when installing the dyna s should the spark plugs 1 and 4 spark when the line on shaft connecting to the dyna s is lined up to the idle advance or when its lined up to the full advance? Ppl keep saying line it up to full advance the when I turn it by hand it'll spark. OK so it'll spark when what two are lined up?!
Thanks in advance
 
Took this fromt he guide on Cliffs site:
Turn the engine clockwise until the rightmost mark (full advance) for 1-4 is at mark.
Turn the advancer fully by hand.
You would expect the light to go on, exactly when the advancer is fully turned.
If not loosen the base plate and turn is slightly in the elongated holes.
If you are suspicious, check the black wire for 2-3 as well.
If you don’t get a reading, you probably forgot to turn the ignition-key and/or switch on the killswitch.
Upgrade to electronic ignition – Suzuki GS550 B – DYNA-2
10
Double check, that the white wire leads to the coil, which is connected to cylinder 1-4 (not 2-3) – if
switched the motor will not start, and after a while you will get scared by the noise when the gas is
ignited after all – with the valves open – it is loud – I know.
Click to expand...


Here's the guide: http://members.dslextreme.com/users/cbsaunders/gs/upgrade_to_electronic_ignition.pdf
 
I think, if you're timing by hand, that you want it at the non-advanced (middle) mark. See posts # 3 and 6 in this thread:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=179387

Make sure your advance is free to turn! The rotor + included spacer height is a bit too much on many of the factory EI bikes. I had to sand down the top of the rotor about 0.8mm so the rotor was free to turn.
 
mike_of_bbg said:
I think, if you're timing by hand, that you want it at the non-advanced (middle) mark. See posts # 3 and 6 in this thread:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=179387

Make sure your advance is free to turn! The rotor + included spacer height is a bit too much on many of the factory EI bikes. I had to sand down the top of the rotor about 0.8mm so the rotor was free to turn.
Click to expand...
If you have to sand it down you probably want to check it with a timing light once you have it going, just to make sure the advance is working properly. Just a suggestion.
 
OK thanks a lot. But what exactly should move freely the black piece behind the nut? If so itll only move a few 16th of an inch.
 
The rotor itself should be free to turn about 15-20 degrees clockwise independent of the crank shaft. From about 1200-2500 RPM, the weights on the mechanical advance will swing out and in doing so cause the rotor to advance. The rotor should not be so tight that it cannot turn, but should not be so loose that it could disengage the mechanical advance. Dyna includes a spacer to prevent the too loose, but often in using it makes it too tight...

koolaid_kid is spot on about using a timing light to verify you're at the right marks at both idle and 2500+ RPM.
 
OK its def too tight. I'm going to Lowes now to see of I can find a washer thin and light enough. Just the other day this thing would fire right up the day I got my shims replace, now it won't even try to run not even a back fire.
 
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