1982 GS550L lean

[mizz0313]

Yes I saw that when I first installed but will use it again to get it reinstalled. I do believe it maybe my coil relay mod but thinking it the actual relay. Not too sure but got down to my solders and they all look okay no melting or broken wires anywhere. I did notice that the battery was back up to 10 volts after sitting since yesterday and I did see voltage to coils and dyna but at one point after the key and kill switch was on for about 5 minutes and also checking relay the voltage seemed to go away to my coils and dyna but still had voltage on the power wire at relay but not to switch wire that should send power to the ignition parts. Going to charge battery again I hope it is still good at this point and possibly look into picking up another relay and trying to bench test the on I have for faults. Yea when trying to get the dyna back in place the test light will come on and stay on but it will be at TDC and not fire mark also can't get light out at full advance instead light stays on and only goes out with rotation of rotor when it should be reversed.

 

[mizz0313]

Hooked battery back up just to check for voltage with key off and it checked out as good. Checked relay voltage with key on killswitch on and voltage was dropping at a very fast rate down to 8 volts after checking battery and that being around 10 volts before hooking back up. Removed relay and battery voltage kept dropping fast with key on. Not sure what that means just yet

 

[tom203]

Pull the headlight fuse....it's using 5 amps with ignition "on"

 

[mizz0313]

Okay Tom I'm getting closer. Got the test light and dyna working with each other and time the bike again after screwing it up. One thing I noticed was a dim light on 1/4 side when timing but nice and bright on 2/3 so I started checking voltages at the wires and 2/3 had 12 volts from dyna while 1/4 is only 2.5 volts. Then noticed if I moved the coil wire light would get brighter also volts are at 12, so it lead me up the harness and at the coil connector I had a loose wire which is why 1/4 would only fire sometimes. Going to get that taken care off and get it all back together and give it another go. Hopefully at this time with carbs bench synced and vacuum close enough I can ride it without it bogging like crazy and also stalling.

 

[mizz0313]

Got it all back together and took it out this morning. it idled good right around 1100, once fully warm i had to turn it down again but from there it pulled nice and drove great. This is at about 2.5 turns out, went on a 10 minute ride getting up in the higher gears and enjoying it. Stopped at parts store it still idled nice did not rise or stall and throttle response was great and came back down fast. Decided to take it to work, got halfway and it stalled on me a few times I'm assuming it got a little hot sitting in traffic but was able to get it started by giving it throttle while holding starter button. After it shut off again I pulled over and checked over everything letting it cool about 5 minutes also turned mixture screws out a quarter of a turn. Bike shut off coming to the next stop but started again and got me to work which was about a mile away and pulled great the whole way but I kept throttle feathered when at a stop scared that it would shut off again. Could it be mixture screws need a little tweaking to keep it from getting hot? Overall I'm more happy with it than I have ever been normally it stalls a lot more and also has a much harder time getting restarted. I'm also still riding with vacuum nipple capped off and petcock in prime should I try reverting it back to stock setup and see what happens? Header temps seemed to be relatively close 2-3 being hotter than 1-4 but within 20 degrees or so.

 

[mizz0313]

Went to take bike out during lunch and got no movement just high rpms in 1st and 2nd. Getting it here was no problem with getting going I could feel clutch engage and bike pulled fine but did have this issue within the last few weeks but it would eventually grab and go, this time it was just screaming and nothing. I had a issue months ago where I would grab clutch handle and drop it into 1st but it would stall so I thought it needed adjustment so I adjusted using manual. Does it sound like my clutches are toasted or should I try re adjusting? Should note that I could also let off clutch handle completely in 1st and nothing happen.

 

[tom203]

This "grab and go" stuff is strange- but now you say the clutch won't engage at all? Any chance the helix gizmo is hung up somehow,so it doesn't release when you let off clutch handle?

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/clutch_odds-n-ends.html

 

[mizz0313]

I will be pulling it into the machine shop and pulling cover off to check it out and adjust. Will report back afterwards. Hoping it's just something hung up and also hoping I didn't fry the clutches.

 

[mizz0313]

Adjusting the throttle cables and adjuster nut has removed my high rpm issue the bike stalls if let out too far and also pulls me forward like it should. A lot of my problem all along just glad I didn't fry the clutches like that. Again thanks for all your help Tom your amazing. Got it home but for a 10 o'clock ride at night with minor traffic and 55 degrees cool it still managed to overheat on me shut off and have a hard time starting again. Got about a mile and a half away from home and had to let bike sit for about 15 minutes then it continued home no problem. Should I be looking into mixture screws for this issue? About 3 turns out now after out after it overheating, doesn't seem to race or stay really high but does sit at about 2000 after riding for a little then if I blip throttle it will come back down to 1100 but has also shut off after getting hotter.

 

[tom203]

This critter should not overheat in 55 degree traffic. Nor should it have a high hot idle,since you got new boots and o-rings. I'd suspect it's running too lean on the idle circuit so it gets too hot. 3 turns out doesn't seem to be delivering enough mixture, so I'll go on a limb and say your idle circuits are not clean . Maybe a good dose of carb cleaner in the gas and an italian tuneup might help. Find some long downhills where you can ride safely- head down fast pening/ closing the throttle puts a lot of vacuum on the idle circuits.

 

[mizz0313]

Okay so I went out this morning started it up and went for a ride down to parts store for berrymans carb cleaner. Went out put that in fired bike up and pulled off to a light that was not functioning correctly and stayed red for about 5 minutes within that time my idled was at about 1100 then it started to fluctuate a little before dying and not wanting to restart. Let it sit in parking lot for about 10 minutes and got it to fire back up also after turning mixture screws in to 1.5 turns it was at 3 turns driving down. Noticed that the 1.5 was not any better I could feel the bike was lean and my idle at stops would be 3000 and after turning it down if I didn't keep on throttle it sounded like it would die. Gonna get it out later to drive around home and do the italian tune up getting the carb cleaner through the system. One thing my co worker noticed while looking over the bike was that my baffles have been removed. Wouldn't the baffles being removed cause a lean condition?

 

[tom203]

I don't think baffles having anything to do with your issue - no baffles might let bike run too lean at wide open, but your problem is erratic idle and hard-to-start hot which suggests clogged idle circuits (assuming ignition is now working correctly)

 

[mizz0313]

Okay I will get it out this weekend and run it hard a few times also after getting hot will be checking voltages to ensure ignition is operating correctly and no faults once hot.

 

[tom203]

Keep at it-you'll get it solved. I haven't touched my idle stop screw in 6 years - always drops down nicely to 1200rpm.

 

[mizz0313]

Set screws out 3 turns and figured I'd let it idle till warm, cleaner would be working through and I can check ignition if it shuts off. Maybe close to 15-20 minutes I noticed the idle going up to about 1500 so I figured it's probably getting a little hotter. Turned it down to 1100 and it started missing sputtered and died. Started back up and died and didn't want to restart. Had 11 volts at the coils and 12 going to ignition system so that all checked out. Hooked up test light and checked my 1/4 pickup wire while holding starter and light was very dim, checked 2/3 and light was bright while holding starter. Sent dyna a email but won't hear anything till Monday. Started it again doing the same thing and it is hard to tell if ignition is at fault or not. I know the screws Could be the issue but even cause a hard restart? For 5 minutes? Mind boggling. Although at 3.5 turns out bike rode crappy and plugs 2/3 now show fuel where I have not seen fuel on those plugs before so I'm assuming the idle circuits are becoming more clean. Will get it back out tomorrow adjusting the screws in and testing and will continue till it no longer drops idle and dies. Think I'm putting too much thought into other things and need to focus on getting screws set correctly

 

[tom203]

I recall some folks having issues with a dyna module, but yours is new - but this business of fiddling with idle as bike gets warm suggests that one or more cylinders might be cutting out.

 

[mizz0313]

contacted Dynatek this morning and was told to send it in for testing but he stated he doesn't think it sounds ignition related, thinks its fuel related. I have no choice but to send it but that puts a dent on me riding at all this season, I just purchased two months ago so i have sometime to do a little more trouble shooting before sending. Wanted to know could the wet plugs i saw after it shuts off be a issue at all? could i be over fueling cylinders? I have never seen black plugs only wet if anything. Replaced plugs a few months back but they have been through alot of testing could they be fouling out casing these kind of issues? Lastly the only part of ignition i have not replaced is the spark plug caps, i do remember checking resistance and getting 5ohms but can that cause me issues once hot if they are bad? They are original and i have snipped back about 1/2 off wires. If none of these would cause misfires/idle issues then i will just send it now but figured id give this a shot. My mind is being tested with this wacky adventure lol.

 

[mizz0313]

Sound like an ignition issue? This is the last video i recorded after bike ran for about a half hour and shut off a few times, mixture screws set at 3.5 turns i believe. Bike didnt sound this bad in the previous vids it broke up a few times but came back before shutting off but in this vid its easily missing. Dont mind the test light was hoping i would get a slower pulse when missing but not sure how effective this was.

 

[mizz0313]

this is one video before the last one i posted where bike ran better with some breaking up around idle but doesnt sound as bad as the last one. Bike shuts off at the 1:47 mark you can hear the breaking up a few seconds before, i start it right back up and it runs till about 3:20 also breaking up a little before. not sure if in this video plugs got fouled or if ignition just got hotter and caused it to totally misfire in the other video or if its just a bad ignition system im dealing with here

 

[tom203]

Sure behaves like ignition dropoff....can't see a new dyna failing this way. How about the wire running from dyna up to 1 and 4 coil, any chance that it's pinched or grounding out along path somehow when bike gets hot?

if you can measure 5kohms over plug caps, they should be fine