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I think this is the one as he said it was going up on EBay if he couldn't get interest in the forum:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1981-1982-SU...h=item416e93b274&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_1319
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1981-1982-SU...h=item416e93b274&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_1319
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Bonehead
Guest
I was gonna say, $50 for shipping? haha definitely not US.
Plus, I assume the reserve is $80 or close to so $100 or so for the seat with shipping? That's a little much for me. I still don't know where I want to go with this... If I find a well priced original seat that I can reupholster for not too much, I'm game. Otherwise, I may cafe it
I know the stigma of taking a hacksaw to frames, but it didn't come to me stock so why try to make it stock? Price wise, it may make sense for me to chop off the top locking mechanism from the frame and just get a long fiberglass pan created, relocate the electrics, and maybe even try to locate a left panel if I feel so inclined 
But, aesthetics are far from where I am now so, any of this really doesn't make a difference until I am at that point in the build. I just wanna hear her start
I searched 650 seat in the for sale section and found nothing but wompin's post
Last edited:
It was this thread I was thinking about:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=202057
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=202057
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Bonehead
Guest
Ah. Well, it sold on eBay any-who. I guess I will toy with the idea of making my own seatpan/seat in the future. But for now, BRING IT ON INTAKE BOOTS! :twistedevil::twistedevil:
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Bonehead
Guest
Got the boots off at the cost of one snap-on impact bit. But, have no fear! Snap-On replaces it with warranty. Perks of working at a real garage
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Bonehead
Guest
Haven't been able to work due to the rain, since she is out covered in the rain 
So what do you guys think? If I go all out, I may paint the frame the same color as is on the tank now or close enough.. Or, may just leave it black. I know the seatpan is wayyyy too long, I just did it to cover up the frame/locking mechanism.
So what do you guys think? If I go all out, I may paint the frame the same color as is on the tank now or close enough.. Or, may just leave it black. I know the seatpan is wayyyy too long, I just did it to cover up the frame/locking mechanism.
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Bonehead
Guest
A little cleaning, and a little new stuff
A little cleaning, and a little new stuff
Changed the oil/filter (Shell Rotella 40), cleaned the cylinder head for intake boots soon to come, tried putting the exhaust back on but the center stand blocks it , fit some new plug caps, and re-mounted the coils with new screws.
I also bought some spade connectors, new ring terminals, etc. for when I solder up the bad wires and new positive(+) ring terminals.
In the middle of cleaning the head!
Re-mounted coils with new screws (Old ones were stripped beyond belief)
New plug boots, fresh wire to the boots, and fit perfectly. Just need new plugs now
A little cleaning, and a little new stuff
Changed the oil/filter (Shell Rotella 40
), cleaned the cylinder head for intake boots soon to come, tried putting the exhaust back on but the center stand blocks it , fit some new plug caps, and re-mounted the coils with new screws.I also bought some spade connectors, new ring terminals, etc. for when I solder up the bad wires and new positive(+) ring terminals.
In the middle of cleaning the head!
Re-mounted coils with new screws (Old ones were stripped beyond belief)
New plug boots, fresh wire to the boots, and fit perfectly. Just need new plugs now
G
GS650E_81
Guest
Coming along, nice work thus far.
Are those clubman handlebar's? If so, how do they feel?
Are those clubman handlebar's? If so, how do they feel?
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Bonehead
Guest
I haven't actually ridden it yet so I can't give a definitive answer. But from me just sitting on it for mock ups, they feel awesome. Much better than the stock bars for me. Plus, once I get a set of rearsets, the posture will be perfect for me. If I have some extra money at the end, I may get some clip-ons. But, who knows
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Bonehead
Guest
Update: Fixed some of the faulty wiring that was held together by crimps. Also soldered up the W/B wire from the R/R seeing as how I thought that was just a little important. Took out the clutch safety switch loop (now I can remove those wires as well so it will look cleaner). I tried to get the dents off the tank with the HFT bar to no avail. They are pretty big and quite deep so I understand why. Time to find a small piece of rebar!!
I also realized my clutch cable was extremely tight (it is a damn hard pull, even for me. It requires my whole hand). Took a look at it, and decided to just get a new one seeing as how it should probably be replaced anyways (might still be the original to be honest
). So I'll see if that helps. I'm also getting some brake pads as well as a replacement clutch lever if I need to. I will take the clutch lever off and see if I can clean and polish it well enough, wire wheel here I come!
Wiring question: Can I leave most of the ground terminals on the battery negative? I have one frame and one engine ground, but I just want to see if my kill switch/starter work. Would I ruin anything if I tried? I think its 3 or 4 ring terminals I have hanging but I could be wrong.
I also realized my clutch cable was extremely tight (it is a damn hard pull, even for me. It requires my whole hand). Took a look at it, and decided to just get a new one seeing as how it should probably be replaced anyways (might still be the original to be honest
). So I'll see if that helps. I'm also getting some brake pads as well as a replacement clutch lever if I need to. I will take the clutch lever off and see if I can clean and polish it well enough, wire wheel here I come!Wiring question: Can I leave most of the ground terminals on the battery negative? I have one frame and one engine ground, but I just want to see if my kill switch/starter work. Would I ruin anything if I tried? I think its 3 or 4 ring terminals I have hanging but I could be wrong.
B
Bonehead
Guest
Update: Intake boots are on, and now it is on to the wiring harness. I will post some pictures/ questions I have about them since I had the wiring diagram with me and I was still stumped.
Things to do to get it running/ test:
- Make an aux. fuel tank
- sort the wiring harness
- spark plugs
- exhaust gaskets
- re-mount exhaust
- replace brake pads
- replace clutch cable
- get the dents out of the tank
- find a new seat/seatpan
Things to do to get it running/ test:
- Make an aux. fuel tank
- sort the wiring harness
- spark plugs
- exhaust gaskets
- re-mount exhaust
- replace brake pads
- replace clutch cable
- get the dents out of the tank
- find a new seat/seatpan
B
Bonehead
Guest
Update:
BRAKES
I was going to just replace the brake pads, but I took a look at the calipers/pads and they had so much crap in the body of the caliper it was disgusting. I have decided to do a full rebuild for all the calipers since I took a look at one of them. Better to do it now, rather than have a troubled time doing it half-assed. Might also go with SS lines, but I may not have enough cash.
WIRING
Put the battery on for a few minutes to check if my killswitch worked. Well, after it didn't I checked voltages at the coils/killswitch and they were 0.00 even when I jumped the solenoid. So, figuring this was a problem I will be tracing the wiring in the harness. I also think that my ignitor may be at fault. But, it was a drained battery going for max 10V across the posts. This is my electrical post in the forum if you want to see what's up
CLUTCH CABLE
Replaced, but feels the same. So, it may just be a hard clutch. Oh well, the cale still looked rusted and old and probably needed to be replaced regardless.
BRAKES
I was going to just replace the brake pads, but I took a look at the calipers/pads and they had so much crap in the body of the caliper it was disgusting. I have decided to do a full rebuild for all the calipers since I took a look at one of them. Better to do it now, rather than have a troubled time doing it half-assed. Might also go with SS lines, but I may not have enough cash.
WIRING
Put the battery on for a few minutes to check if my killswitch worked. Well, after it didn't I checked voltages at the coils/killswitch and they were 0.00 even when I jumped the solenoid. So, figuring this was a problem I will be tracing the wiring in the harness. I also think that my ignitor may be at fault. But, it was a drained battery going for max 10V across the posts. This is my electrical post in the forum if you want to see what's up
CLUTCH CABLE
Replaced, but feels the same. So, it may just be a hard clutch. Oh well, the cale still looked rusted and old and probably needed to be replaced regardless.
eil
Forum Sage
Good decision on rebuilding the calipers. On a used bike, I would never trust a set of brakes that haven't been rebuilt by myself or someone I know to be competent.
You can save almost 50% on the price of SS brake lines if you build them yourself following the instructions on BassCliff's site and threads around here. I haven't done it yet (waiting on parts), but lots of people say it's pretty easy and based on what you've done so far, I think it would be well within your grasp. But if you decide to go rubber, only get brand-new lines since they have a limited life span.
Good to replace if it looked dodgy. A broken clutch cable out on the road is no fun. Maybe PO put some stronger aftermarket springs in the clutch? I've read that the OEM ones give the best feel and won't slip until they get really old and loose their springiness.
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Bonehead
Guest
True. With the clutch, I will investigate on the springs and go through the plates as well when I get in there. I need to remember a few things though since I wanted to drain oil only when I need to.
With the brakes, I agree. I took a single look at the front right caliper and thought there is no WAY I trust these brakes to sto
B
Bonehead
Guest
True. With the clutch, I will investigate on the springs and go through the plates as well when I get in there. I need to remember a few things though since I wanted to drain oil only when I need to.
With the brakes, I agree. I took a single look at the front right caliper and thought there is no WAY I trust these brakes to stop me anymore so better to be safe
T
T8erbug
Guest
Seat, tank, fender mockup
It looks amazing just like this! Just figure out a way to refine it a bit. A cut here a blend there and whammy! Keep the frame black. If you paint the frame to match the body work it will make the bike look bulky and strange because the tank and tails' lines will blend with the off angles of the frame (contradictory/vertical+horizontal lines=unpleasant to the eye). Plus that paint scheme is pretty sweet. Just my two cents. Sweet bike/project!
It looks amazing just like this! Just figure out a way to refine it a bit. A cut here a blend there and whammy! Keep the frame black. If you paint the frame to match the body work it will make the bike look bulky and strange because the tank and tails' lines will blend with the off angles of the frame (contradictory/vertical+horizontal lines=unpleasant to the eye). Plus that paint scheme is pretty sweet. Just my two cents. Sweet bike/project!
B
Bonehead
Guest
Seat, tank, fender mockup
It looks amazing just like this! Just figure out a way to refine it a bit. A cut here a blend there and whammy! Keep the frame black. If you paint the frame to match the body work it will make the bike look bulky and strange because the tank and tails' lines will blend with the off angles of the frame (contradictory/vertical+horizontal lines=unpleasant to the eye). Plus that paint scheme is pretty sweet. Just my two cents. Sweet bike/project!
I was leaning towards the black frame anyways
Maybe even a dark grey possibly... huh that'd look cool. I'd definitely need some help if I wanted to paint the tank, tail, etc the same... Or just give it to someone haha. I may try to cut the frame at the rear if I cannot find a good seatpan, but I want one so I can ride double up if I need to. Also, don't REALLY want to chop the frame if I do not have to.
