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1982 GS850 not running right after carb cleaning

  • Thread starter Thread starter gregoryrailroad
  • Start date Start date
G

gregoryrailroad

Guest
First off, the bike was bought not running. After a few months of rebuilding and cleaning the carbs, I've made progress, but not quite there yet.

After first cleaning, I had problems with carbs 3 & 4 puking pretty heavy. After re-setting the float heights yesterday and re-cleaning the needle and seats thoroughly, I've conquered that demon. However, now I can get the bike started, but it won't run without the choke. As soon as I let the choke go, it dies immediately. Since the bike is in rebuild mode, I have a IV setup while waiting for my petcock rebuild kit to arrive. Tank is supported high above the bike with inline filter and I have the vacuum line in between carbs 3 & 4 blocked. The port between carbs 1 & 2 is open. This is the port that goes to airbox. I have removed the box and have pods now. Since this port goes to box and then box to breather port on top of cylinder head, should I run a line from carb port directly to breather port? Would this line not being there make bike run bad? I'm running out ideas at this point. I am wanting to get the bike running in the next 2 days for a rally run.
Please help. TIA.
 
You can not run pods without extensive carb rejetting.

The Newbie Mistakes thread linked in my signature mentions such issues, plus others, so you might want to review.
 
So, you think my problem is going to pods without rejetting? The only reason I went to pods was the bike didn't have the airbox cover. I suppose I could make one somehow, with either thin sheet metal or fabbing up some plastic. The rest of the box is there and in pretty good shape. I will attempt something if you think this is my main problem.
 
Ok. I may be a newbie here, but I've been riding my whole life. But I got away for a while and I'm back. I know when you increase air, you must increase fuel, that's a given. But I also know that carbs can act differently than others of the exact same kind. 2 identical bikes can have differing carb traits. And when you factor in environment, elevation, etc, a lot of "givens" don't always apply.
So....does your Lurch impression give away the fact that you think I should attempt a makeshift airbox cover?
 
Why not get a real one?
One that fits and looks decent and everything?
You might want to learn what the different lines and hoses do. There is no vacuum line between 3 & 4.
The idle not idling without choke means something in the pilot circuit is clogged, or leaking badly.
It's all in the links Ed provided.
 
I wouldn't bother trying to make a cover. Search ebay and place a Wanted To Buy thread looking for the airbox part. The 1982+ 850 and 1100G shared the same airbox so you can expand your search with this information.
 
I have the same bike as you, and in my case, the bike doesn't want to run even with leaks in the stock airbox with the stock jets.
It ran properly until the boot on #1 gave up. Very finicky when it comes to extra air that's for sure
 
You need to step back and read that Newby list. You probably have a multitude of issue's including bad engine to carb boots/orings, improper carb cleaning, ect
 
Tkent overlooked that the vacuum line is on the top front of your #2 carb

Trying to start the bike with that open will cause issues

The ports between the carbs are vents

Did you follow the tutorial to clean the carbs?
 
I tried opening Nessism's carb rebuild tutorial, but its says it's a bad link "404 not found"
 
I tried opening Nessism's carb rebuild tutorial, but its says it's a bad link "404 not found"

Not sure what's going on. Must be a website issue. Hopefully someone around here saved a copy because I lost the original in a computer crash.
 
I had no trouble getting my 850 to start and run with no airbox at all. But it certainly wasn't rideable. Any tiny airleak around those CV carbs will cause trouble, especially bad riding with a crosswind blowing. Sealed up tight it runs great. I tried pods years ago on my 16 valve 1100 and never got it settled. I don't use pleated pods at all now but have had considerable success with foam pods on a couple of XS650 Yamahas and 2 Moto Guzzis. The Guzzis however, are slide pulls, not so touchy.
 
Mine is a similar experience to wymple's.

Even with the crappy old intake boots that didn't even survive removal of the carburettors, the bike would run.

I toyed with pods and re-jetting but the general consensus was that it was very tricky to get right and there are no hard and fast rules and to what size jets to use.

I went back to standard set up with new rubbers all round and after sealing up the air box, and much cleaning with carb cleaner and an air line and careful balancing it runs beautifully.
 
Not being able to idle is not a pod issue. You have a clogged pilot circuit and you need to remove the plug on the #3/4 connection. As stated earlier, it's a vent line. You also need to plug the #2 carb vacuum line. Like others have said, you need to read the newbie mistakes link. You can find it in the Greetings link at the bottom of my post. Then go to Bikecliff's site and read some more.
 
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