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1982 gs850gl still will not start

  • Thread starter Thread starter kvgarrison
  • Start date Start date
K

kvgarrison

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Hello, I have posted with this problem before and I still have not solved it. My bike will not start cold and the plugs are constantly fouled. I have replaced the plugs 3 times in three thousand miles, I have replaced the battery, I have had the carbs cleaned 3 times, and now I just changed the coils, wires, caps, and plugs again AND NOTHING has changed the problem with this damn thing not starting. I have cleaned all the contacts and grounded the reg/rec directly to the battery which is directly grounded to the block. I have spark on 1 and 2, what do I do, PLEASE![-o<:confused:
 
You didn't mention the rest of the intake system. I've been reading a lot in here about how leaky air passages and tight valves can result in hard starting. So, how long since the valve clearances were checked, and what is the condition of the carb and intake boots and o-rings? Is the air box sealed? Based on what you listed, there's not much else to consider!
 
kvgarrison said:
Hello, I have posted with this problem before and I still have not solved it. My bike will not start cold and the plugs are constantly fouled. I have replaced the plugs 3 times in three thousand miles, I have replaced the battery, I have had the carbs cleaned 3 times, and now I just changed the coils, wires, caps, and plugs again AND NOTHING has changed the problem with this damn thing not starting. I have cleaned all the contacts and grounded the reg/rec directly to the battery which is directly grounded to the block. I have spark on 1 and 2, what do I do, PLEASE![-o<:confused:
Click to expand...

I am assuming that you have explored and acted on all the suggestions on your previous thread. The 3 likely causes of your carbon fouled spark plugs are:

1. Carbs are running too rich through incorrectly set float levels and/or over sized jetting. The throttle response down low and mid range would be poor.
2. Your ignition spark is too weak. Faulty coils or igniters?

3. Your valve clearances are too tight. They should be set at 0.03-0.08mm when the engine is cold. Tight valve clearances are a major cause of poor cold starting.

An additional area to investigate is the choke cable. It may not be fully actuating the choke. This is not likely though, as the fouled plugs suggest that #1 & 2 are the most likely causes of your woes.

The bluing of your #3 exhaut header means that that cylinder has at some stage been running lean. If this was still the case, that spark plug would not be sooty like the rest of them. If it is sooty too, the bluing was done under a previous state of tune, before these symtoms presented.
Are you running the stock airbox or pod filters?

If all else fails, consult a service manuel (Clymer, Haynes) and find out the correct jetting for your model. A PO may have tinkered with the carbs.
 
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49er said:
They should be set at 0.003-0.008mm when the engine is cold.
Click to expand...
NO, NO, NO. :shock:

There are too many zeroes in there. Proper clearances are 0.03mm - 0.08mm OR 0.001" to 0.003".

The fact that measurements in both systems have a 3 in them makes it VERY important to note which system you are using to measure and how many zeroes you are using. 8-[

The rest of the information is good.

Stock jetting for the '82 850 uses 115 mains. That will be good if you have the stock airbox installed and the stock exhaust system. I emphasized the installed airbox because the carbs will not work above idle (and sometimes not even then) unless you have an airbox or pods installed..
 
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Steve said:
NO, NO, NO. :shock:

There are too many zeroes in there. Proper clearances are 0.03mm - 0.08mm OR 0.001" to 0.003".

The fact that measurements in both systems have a 3 in them makes it VERY important to note which system you are using to measure and how many zeroes you are using. 8-[

The rest of the information is good.

Stock jetting for the '82 850 uses 115 mains. That will be good if you have the stock airbox installed and the stock exhaust system. I emphasized the installed airbox because the carbs will not work above idle (and sometimes not even then) unless you have an airbox or pods installed..
Click to expand...

Thanks for the smack around the ears Steve. I must have been working in thou recently.
 
Hello, thanks for your reply. I have done nothing with the valve clearances, I could'nt even begin to figure that out, help.?! The air filter was changed to a K&N last summer and I cleaned the air box and resealed with new weatherstripping but I have not done anything else, any ideas?
 
Valve clearance checks every 4,000 miles are not optional, no matter how frightened you are and how hard you wish they would fix themselves -- in my experience, neglecting the valves for 8,000 to 10,000 miles will result in a bike that is difficult to start and runs like crap.

Do you have a shop manual for your bike? The valve adjustment procedure is explained very clearly and in detail in all the manuals, and BassCliff has posted a series of photos that further illuminate the procedure. It's not at all difficult, but you do need to spend $18 for a tappet depressor, $5 on a metric feeler gauge, and you'll probably need several shims which are normally $5 each from CRC2 or Z1, or about $10 each from Suzuki.

A silicone RealGasket is also a great way to ease future valve checks. This runs about $35 delivered for a lifetime valve cover gasket, breather cover gasket, and postage.

If there are any gs-ers in your area, they may also be willing to help out. Where in Illinois are you?
 
Thank you for your reply, I'm gonna get right on checking the valve clearances, I have a Suzuki dealer right here in town so I'll grab the stuff I need from them, I also ordered the reg/ rec from electrex cause I'm planning a trip around lake michigan in a couple of months and don't wan't to get stranded. I am in Rolling Meadows which puts me about twenty miles northwest of downtown Chicago.
 
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