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Hi and welcome.
Those connecting pieces generally have o ring seals and are known leakers after time especially after a carb rebuild. Parts fiche will show it up. Carbs have to come apart or be ' de-ganged ' to get at them.
In case you haven't yet found it.........
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
PS there should be a vent pipe on that link and it's opposite number. Put it back on before reassembling the carb set as it's almost impossible to do afterwards.
Those connecting pieces generally have o ring seals and are known leakers after time especially after a carb rebuild. Parts fiche will show it up. Carbs have to come apart or be ' de-ganged ' to get at them.
In case you haven't yet found it.........
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
PS there should be a vent pipe on that link and it's opposite number. Put it back on before reassembling the carb set as it's almost impossible to do afterwards.
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vicjr24
Guest
Thanks guys, I figured there was one. is it as easy as unscrewing the plate that goes across and pulling it apart? your links didn't work
Sure
First off those screws on the rack look original. That means they will not give up without a fight and they are not Phillips head but JIS. They will get damaged pretty quick if the wrong tool is used.
You need to have a close look at how the choke and throttle are locked to their respective operating rods as they have to be opened up too.
This would be a good time to consider a thorough clean and replace o rings inside the carbs.
Steve
GS Whisperer
There are TWO 'plates' that hold the carbs together. And, if you are going to take them apart even a little bit, it only makes sense to take them ALL the way apart and refresh the innards, as well.
The leaky area in question is the fuel transfer tube (not a vent as suggested above), hence the leak. A full set of new o-rings can be purchased very inexpensively from cycleorings.com, which is run by one of our members. While at that site, also seriously consider getting the intake o-rings and the stainless screws that hold the intake tubes to the engine. Do NOT waste your money on "rebuild kits". They frequently contain inferior parts and not all the parts you need to do a refurb.
Apparently the links are down to the carb rebuild tutorial, will have to find an alternate source for it.
.
The leaky area in question is the fuel transfer tube (not a vent as suggested above), hence the leak. A full set of new o-rings can be purchased very inexpensively from cycleorings.com, which is run by one of our members. While at that site, also seriously consider getting the intake o-rings and the stainless screws that hold the intake tubes to the engine. Do NOT waste your money on "rebuild kits". They frequently contain inferior parts and not all the parts you need to do a refurb.
Apparently the links are down to the carb rebuild tutorial, will have to find an alternate source for it.
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Just go here: Rebuild Tutorial and you'll have all your questions answered.
I'm sure you are smart enough to take close up photos of the rack and mechanisms before you separate the set
this is very unfortunate - and on a scale of 1 to 10 it is over an 8 - beware a mistake will not only hurt the carbs functionality but screws getting sucked into the engine is a very strong possibility after a set is separated. - You really should never reuse the spiked throttle plate screws - and maybe ask the experts where to obtain them.
this is very unfortunate - and on a scale of 1 to 10 it is over an 8 - beware a mistake will not only hurt the carbs functionality but screws getting sucked into the engine is a very strong possibility after a set is separated. - You really should never reuse the spiked throttle plate screws - and maybe ask the experts where to obtain them.
G
Guest
Guest
Take those carbs and send them off to Steve (if your in the USA) and have them pro cleaned and forget about it. Once they are professionally cleaned they'll be good to go for another 30 years if you take care of your fuel system. Sometimes is worth the $$$ to just have it done correctly. Also put in your signature where you are located
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vicjr24
Guest
thanks everyone for the help. I just traded my 03 636 ninja for this bobber style 83 gs830 and the carbs were just rebuilt but had that 2 leaks. 1 leak was from the a bowl that was not tightened all the way and the other is from the fuel transfer tube from the far left carb so hopefully I only have to take that 1 off along with the gang plate and idk if the choke will be able to stay yet.
"....and the carbs were just rebuilt but had that 2 leaks. 1 leak was from the a bowl that was not tightened all the way and the other is from the fuel transfer tube from the far left carb so hopefully I only have to take that 1 off along with the gang plate "
Do you feel lucky? Best to assume carbs were improperly rebuilt before your arrival. Only way to know is to do it yourself - these carbs don't like quickee fixes.
Do you feel lucky? Best to assume carbs were improperly rebuilt before your arrival. Only way to know is to do it yourself - these carbs don't like quickee fixes.
G
Guest
Guest
Sure
First off those screws on the rack look original. That means they will not give up without a fight and they are not Phillips head but JIS. They will get damaged pretty quick if the wrong tool is used.
You need to have a close look at how the choke and throttle are locked to their respective operating rods as they have to be opened up too.
This would be a good time to consider a thorough clean and replace o rings inside the carbs.
Do yourself a favor and replace every one of those JIS screws with SS allen head fasteners. On the carbs, gang plates, every where. Make sure and use lock washers in the right spots as well. They have kits available to replace every thing on the engine.
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vicjr24
Guest
Ok so I fixed the leaking o ring but after I got it all back together all my carbs are leaking from the intake side out of the bottom right hole as shown in my picture.
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vicjr24
Guest
tap on the bowls..may be a stuck float from turning the carbs around.
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vicjr24
Guest
Tapped in the bowels but still a no go. What is that small hole for anyways? Is their anyone who can shine some lite on that bottom right hole?
Did you open that carb??? Was it good before got into the fuel tube problem? Were you turning the carbs all sorts of positions?? I say the float is jammed up against the needle and it wont let loose. If you look at the floats youll see a tiny tab bent at a 90* angle that rests against one of the float hinge posts.
That tab is to prevent the float from dropping too low when the bowls are empty. If the float drops too low, the needle jams into the float and thats the end. I would open the bowls ( all of them ) and check for proper float and needle movement by lifting and dropping the floats. Adjust the tab so that the needles move smoothly up and you down and dont feel any sort of slight "pinching" as you work the floats.
That tab is to prevent the float from dropping too low when the bowls are empty. If the float drops too low, the needle jams into the float and thats the end. I would open the bowls ( all of them ) and check for proper float and needle movement by lifting and dropping the floats. Adjust the tab so that the needles move smoothly up and you down and dont feel any sort of slight "pinching" as you work the floats.
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vicjr24
Guest
I will take a look at it after thanksgiving but that problem didn't exist until after I took them of his time and un ganged them
I totally understand...but it happens which is why i advise that you check each carb and be well sure the float stops stop the needles from getting jammed. The needles dont need to drop more than like an 1/8 inch to allow sufficient fuel flow anyway. Thats a common misconception..it didnt do that before. But now it is so the cause needs to be investigated.
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vicjr24
Guest
So I fixed the leaking carbs . Not sure exactly what was. I think it was just the floats not acting acting right.now I think my carbs are all tuned wrong because I turned of my ignition and it kept running lol. Then I pulled the positive on the battery and it still kept running. It finally stopes after I pulled it spark plugs. It never did that until this last time I took the carbs off. Any ideas?