1983 GS 1100 left end crank diameter

[gs11ezrydr]

Would any one know the left end crank diameters on the rotor side on the 83 large taper cranks I measure 25.01 mm on the one crank end and 25.02 mm on the another. And they are both the small end cranks. What diameter in mm should the 83 left crank end be ?If any one knows it is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. I just purchased what was supposed to be the 83 big end crank and it measures the same as both my small 25mm crank ends Thanks again

 

[bonanzadave]

"You need to slide the gear & bearing off that are still there & measure the diameter of the flat area. If it is 29mm it is a big end. 25mm is a small end. Ray."

 

[blowerbike]

for what it's worth if needed...
small puller threads for large taper crank and visa versa.
if you have a double row set of needle bearing in the SC gear then you have a small taper crank.
large taper has a single bearing.
so 25mm for small and 29mm for large.

 

[gs11ezrydr]

This is the crank in bought it was indexed, welded and trued came with flywheel, starter clutch, gear, ect. and was all supposed to be the large 1983 29mm left end, He swore. But it was not, All the mains are in great shape (no galling at the oil holes) all the rods have perfect deflection, and the welds look professional, The index rod slides through effortlessly through all for rod ends, I know I over paid for it being perfect or not for a 25mm Left end I paid 750$ including the flywheel, starter clutch ect. But was supposed to have very low running time in a street motor and be perfect and ready to install.I would not have felt so bad if it was all the large 29mm stuff I wanted, But the owner said he would refund my money plus shipping since it was his mistake. I know don't hold my breath Has anyone had any dealings with PCW racing out of new York? The guy John Ganey seems like an honest person so far to deal with. I'll soon find out.

 

[posplayr]

There must be a trick to getting all that to smush fit together.

 

[Guest]

Here you go!

 

[blowerbike]

the seller knew better...
anybody with big GS back ground can tell big from small taper without removing the rotor.

 

[blowerbike]

helical gear???
hmmm
i see no deal but who am i?

 

[rapidray]

You got HOSED by a guy that KNOWS the difference!!! You over paid by at LEAST 250. Ray.

 

[gs11ezrydr]

O well thanks for all your input and information, I know I over paid for it but I could not find a fresh one that came with the rotor, starter clutch, bearing, thrush washer ect. All the ones I have found before had failing main bearings and when I called to replace them with already being welded it actually cost me more in the long run. Any way I contacted the seller and he apologized for sending me the wrong size crank (no questions asked) and said he would return my money including the shipping as soon as he received the crank and rotor. Thanks again all. Now is when I get nervous he'll have my crank and my cash until he returns it to my pay pal account at least. But like I said seems like a nice old fella. reckon I'll find out. I think he learned something also about these crank dimensions so not all lost.

 

[Guest]

the seller knew better...
anybody with big GS back ground can tell big from small taper without removing the rotor.

Ding! ding! we have a winner

 

[gs11ezrydr]

So finally came to a conclusion with the seller and he refunded me $250 for his so called mistake on the size of the left end. I have a 25mm left end crank not welded with all good main bearings and rod deflection is well within specs, small ends perfect, rotor tapered end is in perfect condition. 10,500 miles running time. Also have another 25mm left end welded crank with excellent taper, rod deflection is on the tight side of specs, Small ends also perfect but needs a left center main bearing that is showing some signs of pitting at one the oiling holes. I took it out of a good running engine that had been wrecked. Running time unknown since welded. But had 18,000 on it. Both have heli cut gears. Any ideas on what I should ask on the unwelded and welded cranks. (Fair price) If I do decide to sell them on Ebay. Thanks

 

[blowerbike]

i used to buy stock 25mm cranks for a hundred and re-sell for 200-300 hundred.
the problem is...it is impossible to know if the rods are stepped or the journal's is starting to flake at any of the oil galley's without disassembling.
used pressed pin crank's are a hard buy depending on the HP a person is using them for.

 

[gs11ezrydr]

Thanks I totally agree with the rods stepping I have seen large end rod deflection well within specs and they were still stepped at the outer edges where the bearing cage rides. Also agree with any flaking at oiling journals. Long story short i have some fancy boat anchors more or less. I,m just going to be honest with any potential buyers and let them decide at there own discression. The virgin crank being unwelded would be the better choice if some one was wanting to rebuild a crank and recondition it before welding and trueing, I would think cost wise anyway. Stock HP and I would say they would be ready to install besides the one needing welding. Higher HP race engines nope probably not wise. I have a Falicon billet small left end crank web in my motor now for several years with no problems so far.Was cheaper then trying to swap everything over to a 29 mm end at the time. $149 then $256 now for the billet end. Anyway thanks for your time and replies. I have learned alot on the GSresourses