1983 GS1100E valve adjustment

[ddeboer]

Has anyone set the valves on a GS1100E?

I've newly aquired the bike andwant to learn how to do the maintenance myself.I've read BassCliff's website (an incredible amount of great info-thankyou!)and the link to setting 4 valve motors.I'm not sue if that info would also apply to my bike. I've compared the information in that article along with the info in my Clymer's manual. Both sources speak about lining up the camshaft notches facing outside and then inside. Clymer's talks about lining up a a'T' mark with a "notch".Is the lining up of the camshaft notches and the lining up of the 'T' and notch marks the same thing?
Thought I'd canvas the experts before going in and trying to solve the problem with everything apart!

Thankyou for any replies,

Doug

 

[Steve]

Yes, there are MANY 1100Es here on the board.

Yes, that information DIRECTLY to your bike.

Lining up the notches on the cam will tell you which valves are in place for adjustment. Lining up the cam notches gets you in the ballpark, lining up the "T" in the timing window gets it exact.

.

 

[posplayr]

what Steve said. If something as basic as valve adjust is not clear fom the Clymer manual I would not use it. Bassclif has an 1100E factory manual for free download. Covers all years from 80-83.

 

[koolaid_kid]

Just a note, you need to remove the right front cover to reveal the timing window. That is where the ignition resides.

 

[blowerbike]

oh man.....
if a .003 will go and a .008 won't go.
LEAVE THEM ALONE!
these little nuts require a lot of force to tighten and if not tightened enough they will come loose inside of your engine.

 

[bonanzadave]

if a .003 will go and a .008 won't go.LEAVE THEM ALONE!

Good info. Im gonna do mine. What else....

Basscliff download
Feeler gauge
Valve Cover gasket (any recommendations ?)
The orings Ive heard Nardy talk about ( please explain again...)

What else....

 

[blowerbike]

i like installing a new OEM style(thick) gasket and 4 new half moons(backwards).
hell if a .002 will go with near no drag thats good enough.
using the notches on the end of the cams is fine for adjustment purposes.
finding the heel of a rocker arm type cam lobe is a little strange as the profile is kinda square.

 

[koolaid_kid]

i like installing a new OEM style(thick) gasket

A excellent point. I blew out two aftermarket valve cover gaskets in the last two years. If you are on a rally, this is doubly embarrassing. The second one cracked right in the middle of the cam valley, and shot oil out in spurts. When I went to remove them, they were brittle and broke into bits.
I went back to OEM, no problems.

 

[posplayr]

Valve Cover gasket (any recommendations ?)
What else....

If you have a mechanical tach and 1100E do not use a "Real Gasket", as mentioned stick with OE.

 

[blowerbike]

A excellent point. I blew out two aftermarket valve cover gaskets in the last two years. If you are on a rally, this is doubly embarrassing. The second one cracked right in the middle of the cam valley, and shot oil out in spurts. When I went to remove them, they were brittle and broke into bits.
I went back to OEM, no problems.

i have had very bad experiences with cometic valve cover gaskets.
they use the same thickness of material thats used on clutch covers ect..
and layer it times 3 or 4.
i have had to re-do several paying jobs for free and i have even had them blow out on my drag bikes before.
note:
i am a cometic dealer and i really like everything they sell for the most part as far as racing & a lot of street applications in concerned!
OEM or OEM thick styled VC gaskets work the best.

 

[Guest]

Good info. Im gonna do mine. What else....

What else....

Dave, I'll bet you have done a valve check/adjust before?
The tip about using a Robertson's screw, screwed into a 2" wooden dowel to hold & turn the square-head adjuster is also worth mentioning. I now have a proper Suzuki tool for this, that someone threw in free with some grommets I bought here, & am looking forward to using it next time.

 

[blowerbike]

you need something you can really grip that will not let the adjuster turn.
the screw in the wood thing IMO will not accomplish this.
if the adjuster turns then you lash gets smaller.
i'd spend several dollars on a tool that i could grip.
did i mention that these little muthers need to be really REALLY TIGHT?

 

[posplayr]

you need something you can really grip that will not let the adjuster turn.
the screw in the wood thing IMO will not accomplish this.
if the adjuster turns then you lash gets smaller.
i'd spend several dollars on a tool that i could grip.
did i mention that these little muthers need to be really REALLY TIGHT?

The Cometic gaskets seem really hard, and I have had brand new ones split and move into and under the VC. I only use OEM anymore although I did but a cheap cometic set for my GSXR1100G.


I have the same adjustment tool that Z-1 sell. I did have to grind down part of it so it would fit on some of the adjusters (cams got in the way). Also I use a pair of pliers to hold the knurled wheel because as you say it is too easy to turn when holding with fingers.

 

[Turtleface]

oh man.....
if a .003 will go and a .008 won't go.
LEAVE THEM ALONE!
these little nuts require a lot of force to tighten and if not tightened enough they will come loose inside of your engine.

True statement. Your heart climbs clear out of your throat when you pull the cover and see one of those babies laying right next to the oil drainback hole. A decent telescoping pen magnet is worth it's weight in gold when it comes to search and rescue for small parts you'll inevitably drop. Ask me how I know.

 

[Turtleface]

I have the same adjustment tool that Z-1 sell. I did have to grind down part of it so it would fit on some of the adjusters (cams got in the way). Also I use a pair of pliers to hold the knurled wheel because as you say it is too easy to turn when holding with fingers.

What he said! I tried the Robertston (square drive) screw trick, and it was frustrating enough for me to pick up the proper Motion Pro tool. I use a smaller pair of Vice Grips clamped onto the knurled wheel. And always double check the clearance after you tighten. I almost always find one or two that didn't feel like they moved, but still tightened up enough to warrant re-adjusting.

 

[Guest]

Prior to trying Tkent's Robertson trick, I just used a small pair of curved needle-nose pliers to hold the adjuster. Hopefully, one is going to be adjusting only a couple valves....usually it's just checks, and I'll tweak one or two that are drifting close to borderline but still within spec, since I'm there. In 48,000 km I don't think I have had to adjust more than 4 valves, after the bike's initial 600 km inspection. I don't know if this low wear rate is typical for 1100Es...my bike has stock cams & valves, which probably helps.

 

[Texasgs]

re

re

I have a big pair of stainless locking 8 inch hemostats that really bite down on the little square ends of the adjuster screws, and leave plenty of room to get the wrench in there, to lock the nut down. The little nut has to be tight, dont just snug it, get on it pretty hard. If it is an OE Suzuki gasket and it has been on for years it can be a big job to scrape it off. I did one a little over a week ago, and it took over 3 hours to get the gasket all off, it was a nightmare. Most are not that hard.

 

[blowerbike]

i agree about the very little wear comment.
but if you have a valve job done or swap cams(he-perf) ect...
you have to adjust all 16 of these little bast@rds!
i highly recommend not using the hemostats to hold a left handed cig before trying to adjust your valves.
its hard to eat potato-chips and concentrate at the same time.:-\\\

 

[Texasgs]

re

re

Yeah, keep the little hemos off the smoking material before adjusting the valves, because you need precision. The Godzilla hemos really bite down on the little square ends of the adjusters. Try it and you wont believe how good it works. Big hemos though, little somkies wont do.