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1983 GS1100gk Wished I was as rich as my carbs.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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relavent info : comp. 1-4 dry cold 160-170. Leak down performed by suzuki dealer....Excellent. Valves adjusted carbs syncd etc,etc. Carbs clean as new inside, all passages cleaned checked and air blown thru to verify open. Float level set to highest-min fuel in bowl. jetted all the way down to 110 main/40 pilots, mix screws in then out 11/2 turns. Starts and idles well with NO choke. Dyna coils installed, new foam air cleaner(was K&N) Runs like sexually intercoursed primate for 10-20 miles then need clean set of plugs for 1 and 4. Black sooty. 2 and 3 tad soot around on inside, and brilliant white ceramic and clean electrode. Bought new set of gs carbs(black in color, dealer thinks theyre from E model). Jetting and size (34mm) same as gk stock 115 mains/40 pilots. checked stack up in needles....Good/correct. Second set of carbs still run rich, especially 1 and 4 just like original carbs. Suzuki teck rep said to just jet it down as nothing could be found wrong with bike or either set of carbs. Spark box checked, cam timing, exhaust system. Im desperate! Ive had this bike since march and it has been in shop at least 10 of those weeks and the rest of the time I never left home with out atleast 12 spark plugs, for a 100 mile ride. Cruise it easy or ride the piss out of it, makes no difference. Does not smoke, burns no oil. I have almost decided to part the _itch out and the suzuki dealer has even stumped their gray haired tech rep. Dig deep guys and gals, I need a miracle cure for a problem no one can find. I feel like IM in the twilight zone.
 
If it does the same thing with two different sets of carbs then it sounds like an ignition problem. Swap the coils around and see if the problem goes to #2&3 cylinders. If it does'nt then I'd check the ignitor and pickups.

I did have a problem like you said but only on the number 1 carb. I'd had the fuel level set low and the carb kept over flowing. It was caused by having alot of crud in the fuel tank and getting caught between the fuel float level needle causing it to leak all the time. Installed a good round plastic motorcycle filter and has'nt leaked yet.
 
Sounds like you bike has poor spark. 1 & 4 soot is a sign that one of your two coils is very marginal and the other isn't much better. Two reasons for poor spark... first is that the coils are shorting a tad when the bike warms. You can check primary and secondary impedence values; especially when the bike is warmed a bit. You will need a multimeter and your manual which likely explains how to make this check better than I. If the coils test out OK, then I suggest you may have voltage supply problems to the coils. Most older bikes have lots of old wire between the battery and coils, not to mention old and dirty connectors and an old and dirty kill switch and an old and dirty igntion switch. I have found that most older bikes I have owned have benefitted from an electronic igntion, Dyna coils and wiring the coils direct from the battery via an automotive relay. This supplies FAR more voltage to the coils and your coils will provide a much hotter spark. Signs of weak spark are soot, even with hotter plugs and a bit of backfiring through the carbs. I wrote up a "how to" if you are interested that you could likely adapt if you are interested.

A link to this article is: http://www.kzrider.com/ignition_upgrade.shtml

On my own bike, I use the wire that powers the coils to TRIGGER the relay and don't bother take a wire off the kill switch as in the article. Either way will work fine.
 
I think it's the ignitor box. They're sensitive and seem to defy testing. Unless there's a 100% test that proves it's good, I'd eliminate it and install a Dyna "S" ignition or similar.
 
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