1983 GS750TD rare model??

[Strider]

Bought this a couple years ago. Cleaned up carbs and put on lights. Couple other little things.

Difficulty putting on airbox!! Won't fit into carbs. Heated and bent them back. Issue is that the box sits at the wrong angle and pulls out on the bottom.

Which is the correct airbox for this bike?

Good times. Fired it up today, and it ran for the first time since I bought it.

 

[Redman]

Z is 1982 model year
D is 1983

gs750TD, is a T type of model, 1983 model year (not 1983 calander year)

 

[Redman]

oh
now see other post.

 

[Steve]

I don't know how rare an '83 T is, but most of the ones I have heard about are '82s. There are probably far more than I realize, but I don't follow the T line.

That being said, are you sure you have an '83? Look at the VIN plate on the front tube of the frame, there should be two clues there. In the 'bottom right' corner, there should be a letter, it would be Z (for '82) or D (for '83). In the 'upper right' corner will be the production date. This is where some people get confused, because production of '83 models started as early as 08/82. Another source of confusion is that some states will date a bike as the first year it was sold/titled. I knew a guy who had what he thought was an '86 GS850. Yes, they were available in the non-US market, but not here. Turns out it was an '83, but never sold until '86, and his state titled it as an '86. Your VIN plate is your ultimate authority.

.

 

[GSXR7ED]

I don't know how rare an '83 T is, but most of the ones I have heard about are '82s. There are probably far more than I realize, but I don't follow the T line.

That being said, are you sure you have an '83? Look at the VIN plate on the front tube of the frame, there should be two clues there. In the 'bottom right' corner, there should be a letter, it would be Z (for '82) or D (for '83). In the 'upper right' corner will be the production date. This is where some people get confused, because production of '83 models started as early as 08/82. Another source of confusion is that some states will date a bike as the first year it was sold/titled. I knew a guy who had what he thought was an '86 GS850. Yes, they were available in the non-US market, but not here. Turns out it was an '83, but never sold until '86, and his state titled it as an '86. Your VIN plate is your ultimate authority.

.

Well, golly! (As Gomer Pyle would say)

That is true! It's 11pm and I'm still awake. I checked my "T" in the garage but the sticker is torn off...so, off to the shed I went to inspect my parts "T".

Sure enough, it says "Z" on the sticker! Then how do I know the one in the garage is a "Z" also? Heck, I did the checking when I first signed up here in December 2012. I found out from the VIN.

Ed

 

[Steve]

Sure enough, it says "Z" on the sticker! Then how do I know the one in the garage is a "Z" also?

Comparing serial numbers might help. If the one in the garage is a lower number, it will also be a Z. If it's a higher number, there's no guarantee. There is a guide here somewhere that lists the serial numbers for the various production years, that might help, too.

.

 

[HiSPL]

And, yes T models were kinda rare, but that only makes it harder to find parts for. Doesn't make them worth any more! lol

Mostly it's like an E but with some L touches like the rounder tank and round headlight. Unfortunately the seat pan, tank, tail, and side covers are unique to the T so don't lose them. If the seat pan is rusted, you'll have to derust it and use it anyway. I did that many years ago by removing all the scale, wire brushing it clean then hit it with some phosphoric acid and then primer. I then used fiberglass to strengthen the thin and holey pan into something usable. It was a lot of work but it turned out very well. You basically use the rusty seat pan as an internal skeleton to put layers of fiberglass onto, so you can keep the shape and the mounting points all in place.

The T has a rear drum brake and a single front disc. The inner fork legs are about 1" (maybe? thats a hazy memory) shorter than E tubes, but they are the same diameter. So you can use E lowers on T uppers which gives a bonus of spring preload, plus a steeper head angle by lowering the front end slightly. For a rear disc you'll need a swingarm and wheel from an E. Plus the master cylinder and maybe even the footpeg/mount from the right side. The drum brake never worked well, and has a tendency to stick if you do use it. I never used it on mine.

All in all I really like the T model and I think they had the best UJM looks out of the whole lineup of GS's. I had an 82, but it was run over in a parking lot in the late 90's. I bought an E and used the T as parts. This is how I know about the suspension, etc.

One more thing, the T single disc is larger than the E dual discs. I always wanted to try making a "big brake kit" out of 2 T discs on E forks. Never got around to it, but that may be something to look into!

 

[HiSPL]

OH I just remembered this! 82's had a natural aluminum engine and the 83's had a black painted engine! HTH!

 

[GSXR7ED]

Comparing serial numbers might help. If the one in the garage is a lower number, it will also be a Z. If it's a higher number, there's no guarantee. There is a guide here somewhere that lists the serial numbers for the various production years, that might help, too.

.

I put the last 4 digits of my "T's" in my signature. The one in the garage is a lower serial number...plus I looked at that VIN reference posted somewhere on here of year motorcycle/model, as you referenced.

Ed

 

[GSXR7ED]

And, yes T models were kinda rare, but that only makes it harder to find parts for. Doesn't make them worth any more! lol

Mostly it's like an E but with some L touches like the rounder tank and round headlight. Unfortunately the seat pan, tank, tail, and side covers are unique to the T so don't lose them. If the seat pan is rusted, you'll have to derust it and use it anyway. I did that many years ago by removing all the scale, wire brushing it clean then hit it with some phosphoric acid and then primer. I then used fiberglass to strengthen the thin and holey pan into something usable. It was a lot of work but it turned out very well. You basically use the rusty seat pan as an internal skeleton to put layers of fiberglass onto, so you can keep the shape and the mounting points all in place.

The T has a rear drum brake and a single front disc. The inner fork legs are about 1" (maybe? thats a hazy memory) shorter than E tubes, but they are the same diameter. So you can use E lowers on T uppers which gives a bonus of spring preload, plus a steeper head angle by lowering the front end slightly. For a rear disc you'll need a swingarm and wheel from an E. Plus the master cylinder and maybe even the footpeg/mount from the right side. The drum brake never worked well, and has a tendency to stick if you do use it. I never used it on mine.

All in all I really like the T model and I think they had the best UJM looks out of the whole lineup of GS's. I had an 82, but it was run over in a parking lot in the late 90's. I bought an E and used the T as parts. This is how I know about the suspension, etc.

One more thing, the T single disc is larger than the E dual discs. I always wanted to try making a "big brake kit" out of 2 T discs on E forks. Never got around to it, but that may be something to look into!

All good points about the "T". Black engine is the BIG/Obvious difference as is the square turn signal lights.

My rear drum didn't stick...and I used it for emergency braking...as I was taught in MSF class.

Ed

 

[Strider]

It's the D model as confirmed by sticker, on fork shaft upper.

 

[Strider]

Other options.

Other options.

Great info! Thanks for all the knowledge! When I searched the forum for a TD model, only 2 results. Search for TZ and you get too many.

My issue is the airbox won't securely attach to the carbs. It's tight on top, barely grabbing at the bottom.
If only I could angle the carbs up on the back side. The it might be better. It's the Z box that I have (x2) actually. Though that shouldn't make a difference.

I still think it'll be easier to fight with the airbox that go down the pods route, according to the posts I've read so far.
The D airbox is supposed to be smooth from what I see in the resources. But the Z models are a little different, and I will always wonder if that caused the angle change.
Maybe new carb to engine boots will change the angle enough.

 

[Strider]

Quick clip of the first start the other day.

 

[GSXR7ED]

Paging Yasser...for a pic of the Airbox that fits onto the boots!

Ed

 

[HiSPL]

For searching the forums, just use GS750T. Nobody ever puts the year code on there. And the 2 T models are virtually identical save for a few tiny differences.

 

[GSXR7ED]

Info on this "Thread" about the difference between the 1982 & 1983 GS750T:

https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...-2nd-Thread)-3rd-Overall-(I-think)&highlight=

Ed