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1983 Suzuki GS1100ED --- "Big Boy"

  • Thread starter Thread starter Flaming Chainsaws
  • Start date Start date
Curly said:
I don't understand these questions. All the bolts on the bike are the same, M6-M12 generally. 1-1.25 thread pitch. Take off ANY of the bolts that have a 10mm socket head, like any of the ones holding on the electronics parts, and it should thread in. AKA I'm guessing it's an M6x1, and roughly 2.5-4cm long. Rear should be a bit longer, and you know it goes in front of the swing arm in the back, and behind it in the front, right?

P.S. hack up your harnesses on the controls, put the old plug on the new hand control, problem solved.
Click to expand...
I have a box of metric bolts so I'll look through those. I probably have the right size but not the right length.

I guess I could hack up the harness on the switches. I get to use my new solder iron again. :)
 
I got good at those kinds of wire-wire solders when I extended my entire harness to fit the electronics under the seat. The best part was that I now have faith in both my abilities, and their strength. I've never had one fail. Crimp connections on the other hand...
 
FC I think you've forgotten the golden Suzuki screw/bolt part number rule... the size is embedded.

The front bolt for your guard is listed as 01107-06128, so it's a M6 x 12mm and those smaller ones are 1 pitch.

The rear one shows as a shoulder bolt but the part number says any M6 x 25mm will do: 01107-06258

Don't forget, the parts fiche is your friend!
 
I did not know that the bolt sizes are in the part numbers. No more asking for bolt sizes. :cool: Thanks!
 
You will not find a better power adder for $40 than high output coils. The bike will start much easier and be more responsive. :)
 
Adler said:
That IS a great deal!
Click to expand...

TeamDar said:
You will not find a better power adder for $40 than high output coils. The bike will start much easier and be more responsive. :)
Click to expand...
Hmmm... Now I'm considering keeping them. I mean my current spark plug caps and wires are cracked and loose and was shocked a few times while the bike was running...
 
Guys... I have some bad news. My dad will be using the red Toyota truck and my mom is driving the Camry. So that leaves me with the little Nissan truck. Problem is, it is knocking pretty bad and loses power after you drive it for a while. It won't last long. :( The MR2 is sold to help pay for future schooling as well.

How will I get to work? I need a car, like right now! The 1100E is for sale. $1000 as is right now or $1,400 once I fix the electrical problems.

Unless I can find someone that will let me borrow their car or if I stumble upon some cash (I doubt it) then I can keep the bike.
 
Last edited:
Truth said:
I ride to work every day.

Even when it rains.

Keep the bike.
Click to expand...
I can't. The thing is none of the lights work so it is illegal. It will also take some time for me to fix it but I need a car before next week.
 
You can't temporarily run wires straight to a switched 12v source? I don't understand why the lights don't work, it's either a bad bulb, bad wire, or bad fuse. Multimeter will tell you in seconds which one it is.
 
Curly said:
You can't temporarily run wires straight to a switched 12v source? I don't understand why the lights don't work, it's either a bad bulb, bad wire, or bad fuse. Multimeter will tell you in seconds which one it is.
Click to expand...
Bulbs are good. Fuses are good. So it must be a bad wire? I think my wiring harness came off of an earlier model though...

1982 GS1100E right hand controls installed. It didn't work at first so I opened it up and cleaned the contacts. Now it works great!
DSCN4780.jpg


Brand new throttle cable installed. The grip now returns perfectly.
DSCN4781.jpg


Intake port of cylinder 1 looks good. :rolleyes:
DSCN4773.jpg



Now the clutch lever is VERY stiff. I think I over tightened the clutch springs a bit so I'll check that tomorrow.
 
Check for ground and + at the headlight plug. Should be three prongs. One is ground, one is the headlight, one is the brights. Ground should be black, or black with a stripe. Put your multimeter on it's continuity setting, and jamb it in that hole, and the other probe on the negative battery terminal. Should beep. Switch to 12v, and leave the probe on the negative battery cable. Check the other two plugs. One should have 12v, one shouldn't. Switch on the brights, and they should either switch, or now the 2nd one will have 12v.

Report back your findings, this should be an easy fix, seriously.
 
Curly said:
Check for ground and + at the headlight plug. Should be three prongs. One is ground, one is the headlight, one is the brights. Ground should be black, or black with a stripe. Put your multimeter on it's continuity setting, and jamb it in that hole, and the other probe on the negative battery terminal. Should beep. Switch to 12v, and leave the probe on the negative battery cable. Check the other two plugs. One should have 12v, one shouldn't. Switch on the brights, and they should either switch, or now the 2nd one will have 12v.

Report back your findings, this should be an easy fix, seriously.
Click to expand...
Curly, my headlight works perfectly fine. The tail/brake/license light, turn signals, and gauge cluster are the parts that do not work.

Unless I'm missing something in your explanation?
 
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