1983_GS750E - Rebuild

[Redneck]

Big wild boar is only really good in heavily spiced food. Other than that they have a real gamey taste that is hard to describe, but it is not very good. The young shoats about 60-70 pounds are the best eating. Tender and juicy.... yum yum.

Paul

Well they don't call me Redneck for nothin

 

[GateKeeper]

electrical panel

electrical panel

Well, painted the bracket, and put back the parts that go onto it....another small bit completed...

.

 

[GateKeeper]

How to reverse all that I have done ????

How to reverse all that I have done ????

OK, so I am almost at the point of putting this bucket of bolts back together, and I really don't know where to start....

Is there a starting order, to reverse all I have taken off of the bike, is there something that should be done, before something else is done, so I don't have to take it off and put it on twice ?

This is the part I was most concerned with, when I started this project, how to put it back, and have a motorcycle once again.

Yes I can follow all my pictures, in reverse order, but is that the way to do it ?

For example, do I assemble the front and rear end, get wheels and shocks on, swing arm, etc, or do I start with the engine, get it back in (air box first) and then go on with the rest, or does it really matter. OK my chain is solid no link, will that make a difference or not.

What is a good and or proper way of putting it all back together....

I wish there was a guide on how to do this....LOL

 

[cowboyup3371]

Personally, do whatever you want. However, I'd try to put the wheels back on first just to give it that extra support and then work from there. Save things like the airbox, carbs, and electrical stuff for after the engine is in place.

 

[spyug]

My usual starting point is getting the engine back in first, then headers followed by suspension, then wheels, then electricals, then carbs, then guages and headlights, then signals and finally tank and bodywork. Most times, once I get the engine in, electricals in and carbs on I go for a test fire just to make sure its working before I go further. No point in finishing it if it doesn't run plus I find it easier to work on the engine with front end off.

One other thing you might want to consider. As you have the electrics off you might want to swap out that stock R/R as I bet you will have charging issues with it, I did. Mr. Matchless has compiled the master list and the Shindengens , mostly out of Hondas, work best. The one I have is out of a Goldwing I think , sorry but the model escapes me at the moment. The are physically larger than stock but will fit on the mounting board.

Also with the wiring harness and connectors, take the time and clean things up, especially the dang connectors. You will often find problems in the wiring harness caused by faulty /unclean connections. It is common to see voltage drops caused by cruddy connectors causing resistance. It is also common for grounds to be ineffective due to corroded or at least dirty contacts. Tedious but necessary work my friend.

Looking good dude, can't wait to see the frame.

Cheers,
spyug

 

[Guest]

After looking at your forks, was surprised you hadn't taken the antidive hardware off. Things are fairly useless(new progressive springs and heavier fork oil would work better then those things ever did and get much better feel/feedback through the brakes) and it would clean up the lines on the fork. Just a thought...

 

[GateKeeper]

@Spyug - Thanks for the feedback.....but I am not sure if engine will go in first, or be left for latter, it needs to be painted and then cure for a while, but while it's dong that I can work and reassemble other parts on the bike, so either do nothing now, and wait, or do something and put the engine in first.

I only thought there was a right way, and or a better way, but it seems there is not, and basically anything goes, to some extent.

My other issue is if I do the wheels and such, then I only have a side stand to keep the bike upright, but it's moveable, but the chance of it getting knocked over or what ever is greater. so you see, it's a catch 22, no matter how I look at it.....

I think I will paint it all frame and engine, let it sit and cure and then figure out, what's next....

After looking at your forks, was surprised you hadn't taken the antidive hardware off. Things are fairly useless(new progressive springs and heavier fork oil would work better then those things ever did and get much better feel/feedback through the brakes) and it would clean up the lines on the fork. Just a thought...

Probably because, by the time I gave that some thought, I had already ordered SS lines, so now it's a bit late to do a conversion, or deletion of parts, as I would be throwing out good lines as well. And then if I did do the conversion, it would have been just another expense for new springs, and cover plates, and just didn't/don't want to go there at this time.

But ya, it probably would have made sense.....

 

[Guest]

I got mine to a rolling frame before putting the engine in, but yes you're right, there's no right or wrong way unless there's some sort of physical restriction in how things go together, like on the 450 I can't get to the starter without removing the cam chain tensioner...

Don't worry about the side stand thing, after all once it's all together you're still just going to have a side stand right? Or is there a centre stand for yours as well? Mine spends most of its time in the garage on the centre stand...

 

[GateKeeper]

Just the side stand, nothing else, it never had a center one.

the only thing I do know is I need the air box in before I put the motor in, this I have to remember......

I guess, it will go together somehow, I just didn't want to put something on, and then find out, crap, I should have put this on first, and now take a multitude of parts off, but it seems this will not be the case, so it should be OK, it appears only a few things to be careful on, probably the air box and rear suspension, need it in place with chain there, or I will have to break a link, so I can feed it through...

It's gonna get exciting soon......

 

[spyug]

The best tool I ever got I believe is the bike lift from Crappy Tire. Its a godsend as it keeps the bike upright , its manouverable and the wheels on the bike can be off or on. I love mine and can't believe I rebuilt 3 bikes before I found it.

I think making the frame moveable by having the wheels on is convenient for moving around the garage but I'd also be afraid of tipping it. The lift eliminates this.Its rock solid.

I like the commercial type hydraulic bike lifts but they are too big for a home garage and expensive too. I'd definitely get one if I had a bigger workshop. The lift was around $75 as I recall and I've seen them on Kijiji for less than $50 used. A great investment for anyone working on bikes for sure.

Something else to think about.

Cheers,
Spyug

 

[Guest]

Just the side stand, nothing else, it never had a center one.

the only thing I do know is I need the air box in before I put the motor in, this I have to remember......

I guess, it will go together somehow, I just didn't want to put something on, and then find out, crap, I should have put this on first, and now take a multitude of parts off, but it seems this will not be the case, so it should be OK, it appears only a few things to be careful on, probably the air box and rear suspension, need it in place with chain there, or I will have to break a link, so I can feed it through...

It's gonna get exciting soon......

I thought it was getting exciting already

But yes things like the airbox there are what to look out for mainly...

Is the chain new or did you take it off with the disassembly? I thought they all came with a master link of some sort... there would physically be no way for me to remove the chain from the 450 without breaking it...

The best tool I ever got I believe is the bike lift from Crappy Tire. Its a godsend as it keeps the bike upright , its manouverable and the wheels on the bike can be off or on. I love mine and can't believe I rebuilt 3 bikes before I found it.

I think making the frame moveable by having the wheels on is convenient for moving around the garage but I'd also be afraid of tipping it. The lift eliminates this.Its rock solid.

I like the commercial type hydraulic bike lifts but they are too big for a home garage and expensive too. I'd definitely get one if I had a bigger workshop. The lift was around $75 as I recall and I've seen them on Kijiji for less than $50 used. A great investment for anyone working on bikes for sure.

Something else to think about.

Cheers,
Spyug

I wish I had one of them Spyug! They're not quite that cheap over here but definitely a lot cheaper than the big bench ones. I never really thought about it 'til I had the engine back in the rolling frame and was happy just to wheel it around at that point.

I think if I was going to do another then I'd definitely pick one up as they look very handy indeed.

 

[GateKeeper]

the chain is what was on the bike, it does not have a master link, it's a solid one, so I have to be careful on when it gets installed, to make sure it''s on place, it came out the same time I pulled the rear wheel and swing arm assembly out, just unhooked it from the front sprocket and was able to remove it all at once then.

the lifts sound like a good thing, only I don't think it would work, wouldn't the exhaust get in the way ? Then again I am not thinking of doing anymore rebuilds, so it will not really be a good way to spend funds, plus I need stands for the new bike we purchased, these will use the spool system for the rears, and will keep the bikes in place during winter storage.

 

[spyug]

Well for stock bikes with an h-box joining the pipes (like ours) it can be a pain if your pulling them off or putting them on. Once in place its not a big deal and you can put the bike on with no damage. Bikes with 4 into 1 pipes are better unless its a Yosh setup in which case it goes partially under the frame and you have to ditch the centerstand. You can still make it work with a couple of 4x4 x 12" "spacers".

Even with the dicking around, they are very useful, I find, and there is always one of the bikes on it at anytime. My 550 project is on it at the moment (without front suspension or wheels) and in a short time the Kat project will go back on when I get to sorting the tranny ( after I finish all the boss' painting and decorating projects).

As I mentioned, they are quite versatile and I find I can't do without it now.

If you do go with just the centerstand or side stand, a good tip is to tie it to the front wheel to insure you have fixed 3 points for stability. I can't tell you the number of bikes I've seen that "fell off" the side stand. Use a ratchete strap for extra security as it will stay taught.

Good luck with it.

Spyug

 

[Redneck]

You just think your not going to do any more builds... wait till you want a bigger bike or a different style .... you know you will.

Paul

 

[GateKeeper]

welded frame....

welded frame....

Well I got the frame back today, it's not going to win any beauty pageants, but it's now strong, and safe, and I don't have to worry if it will break on me while riding around town, or down the highway...

I took some before and after shots, the before is how it came right from the welder guy, his welds are good I guess, better than anything I could do, then again we were not going for looks.

I then took the grinder to the welds (the 20 dollar one from Canadian Tire) and gave it quick once over, nothing harsh, and it seems to be a bit better, but it will need more work, to get it really (somewhat) nice, I am not a welder, fabricator, grinder, or anything like that, heck I fix computers, hardware and software, so getting this much done is great for me, I have tinkered a whole lot and done a lot of this stuff, but usually to a rough stage, now I have to go all the way and make it to the finish stage as well. Probably with a bit more grinding, and maybe some JB Weld to smooth it out a bit here and there, and once the primer/paint go on, heck it might not even be all that noticeable....if it really comes down to it, I can always go and get another frame, but that would just be nuts......


so here are the before

This is where the big hit was.....now it's no longer a divit....

Hardly noticeable from this angle

and the after (light grinding) I am afraid to do a lot, don't want to grind off the bloody welds.....so I am taking my time

.

 

[spyug]

heck I fix computers, hardware and software

Snap, me too so we have more in common than 750s and liking guns

I think the repairs look fine and if you go easy with the grinding they'll look presentable when painted or powdercoated.

If , after grinding, there are any pin holes or gouges and you want to fill them get some plumbers epoxy putty (2 part, Home Depot, Lowes etc) it sands like body filler but is much stronger and bonds well to metal. You could perhaps use it to fair in the ends of those fillets too.

Once the paints on and the engines in these won't be noticeable to the untrained eye and you can always tell any know it alls that they were an "option" from the factory.

Its looking good. What's the ETA on the header bolt?

Cheers,
Spyug

 

[GateKeeper]

Thanks Spyug.....

your not some long lost brother, I don't know about....LOL

it will have to do, I will try to make it look pretty nice, but will not go nuts to get it that way....

If I picked up the frame yesterday, I would have the engine back by Friday, but since I was delayed, so will the work, unless he has time to do it.....worse case scenario, it will be Monday, if I am lucky it will be tomorrow.....

then I have to drill new holes, and tap new threads, that will be fun....trying to get it right, the angle and all on the exhaust, the hole where the oil cover is, should be simpler, I can put the cover on and use it as a guide.....

It will be OK

and I have that JB Weld stuff, so I can use it to fill up and smooth out, some of the rough parts if any.....

 

[Guest]

Looks like solid work there GK! Nice.

Like Spyug suggested I'd probably use something to blend the extra into the frame a little nicer.

Oh, and I used to fix computers too, but more of an infrastructure guy these days

 

[GateKeeper]

Thanks Pete....

Well got some bad news, well not really bad news, more like expensive news....

They started to weld the holes on the engine, and they were having a problem with the filling of the hole, so they started to investigate, and what they found is there is still some of the steel bolt in the hole, and so aluminum and steel don't play nice together, so they ad to stop, and drill out even a bigger hole to make sure all the steel is out, and they checked out the other one, and I am told there is a bit of steel in that one as well.....WTF, I drilled the holes out, and I could have sworn that I got all of the bolt out, and holes were clean....

So they tell me, now instead of a hundred bucks for the job, it's now 3 hundred, well I just about blew a gasket....triple the price of their original quote, I think not, and first of all if they found something and could not do the work for the agreed price, they should have stopped, called and advised me, to see if I want to pay that....crap SVSooke was giving me a used head for the cost of shipping, like 40 bucks, cheaper if I went that route.

So after a bit of back and forth bantering with the shop, we agreed on a price, they will finish the job, remove the remnants of the steel bolts, fill in the holes, I have to grind it down and drill and tap.

for the sum of 150 dollars.....

Thing is OK I guess, and we kinda met half way, lesson learned on both sides I guess, but it won't be done today, and now they tell me, they will finish it when they get a chance, sometime next week,,,,,,I guess they are punishing me by making me wait....

Good thing I don't need the engine, at this time.......

 

[brslk]

Those aren't the prettiest welds but I have seen worse.
I would smooth them out a little with JB weld or just plain bondo.
Either way no one will notice them but you.

I kinda had worries about welding up the holes in the aluminum engine because all it takes is a little bit of steel to contaminate the weld.

You might think it is good but unless it is sanitary kinda clean aluminum welding has bad reactions with dissimilar metals even in the most minute particles.

$150 is not bad at all. It's just too bad they are making you wait as punishment. Welders are for the most part A-holes... I know because I weld and my father was a professional welder.

Bruce.