K
Karstan
Guest
Thanks! That will save me some time! I was going to take the old screws to a few places in town to see if they can match. Now I can just call around on Monday!
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K
Karstan
Guest
Well, I spent a ton of time on the bike today. And while I was working I decided that I'm going to follow in the footsteps of those who came before me (SV, GK) and strip this puppy to bones.
I started today by dropping Carb #1 into the carb dip:
And here's what it looked like after it came out (6 hours later) and got a warm bath:
Next, I finished taking the wiring harness off. It looks like a spinal cord or something. I'm DEFINITELY going to be building a new one. This one is a mess:
Then I decided to try and track down that oil leak of mine. First I cracked open the generator cover:
Looks good in there... but there's no gasket! Ah, okay, I actually already knew that there wasn't one and it was leaking somewhat. I'd cracked this guy open a year ago when I replaced the stator. But, I also know that there's more oil coming from somewhere else.
Next, on to the engine sprocket cover. Oh, boy! What a mess! There HAS to be a leak in here!
After some cleaning:
Then I took the sprocket off. The oil seal seems to be in good shape, but the o-ring is missing. So I've ordered that.
Then the gear indicator sensor. Oil definitely flowed when I pulled that off. Is that normal? Well, the o-ring is missing there as well so I'll be ordering that.
continued...
I started today by dropping Carb #1 into the carb dip:
And here's what it looked like after it came out (6 hours later) and got a warm bath:
Next, I finished taking the wiring harness off. It looks like a spinal cord or something. I'm DEFINITELY going to be building a new one. This one is a mess:
Then I decided to try and track down that oil leak of mine. First I cracked open the generator cover:
Looks good in there... but there's no gasket! Ah, okay, I actually already knew that there wasn't one and it was leaking somewhat. I'd cracked this guy open a year ago when I replaced the stator. But, I also know that there's more oil coming from somewhere else.
Next, on to the engine sprocket cover. Oh, boy! What a mess! There HAS to be a leak in here!
After some cleaning:
Then I took the sprocket off. The oil seal seems to be in good shape, but the o-ring is missing. So I've ordered that.
Then the gear indicator sensor. Oil definitely flowed when I pulled that off. Is that normal? Well, the o-ring is missing there as well so I'll be ordering that.
continued...
K
Karstan
Guest
Since the sprocket was off, I went ahead and took the rear wheel off:
And since the rear wheel was off, I took off most of just about everything else:
The only reason the rear shock and swing arm are still on is because I couldn't get the bolts to budge. Soaked them in penetrating oil and hopefully will get them soon.
Went ahead and took a look at my clutch as well:
Clutch plates/fibers seem to be in good shape:
Some burn marks on the metal though:
And that's about 6 hours of work. Seems like there should be more to show for it!
And since the rear wheel was off, I took off most of just about everything else:
The only reason the rear shock and swing arm are still on is because I couldn't get the bolts to budge. Soaked them in penetrating oil and hopefully will get them soon.
Went ahead and took a look at my clutch as well:
Clutch plates/fibers seem to be in good shape:
Some burn marks on the metal though:
And that's about 6 hours of work. Seems like there should be more to show for it!
G
GateKeeper
Guest
Lots of good progress.....very well done....on your way to a great rebuild....
you say your going to make a new wiring harness ? why ?
yours don't look that bad
unless there is something I am not seeing, and you have broken wires, or burnt wires, or cracked, corroded connectors and so on.....
just clean it up, wipe it down, use Q tips on the connectors clean them, get some dielectric grease, some good quality electrical tape, wrap over the existing tape and all and it will look just like new....
see part of mine here, sorry I didn't take any pics before I put it back in
Forgot to add,,,,,let your carbs sit in the carb cleaner longer, shoud be at least 24 hours for a good clean, then strip them down further and clean up some more,
.
you say your going to make a new wiring harness ? why ?
yours don't look that bad
unless there is something I am not seeing, and you have broken wires, or burnt wires, or cracked, corroded connectors and so on.....
just clean it up, wipe it down, use Q tips on the connectors clean them, get some dielectric grease, some good quality electrical tape, wrap over the existing tape and all and it will look just like new....
see part of mine here, sorry I didn't take any pics before I put it back in
Forgot to add,,,,,let your carbs sit in the carb cleaner longer, shoud be at least 24 hours for a good clean, then strip them down further and clean up some more,
.
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K
Karstan
Guest
Thanks GK!
RE: The harness: My photo doesn't really do it justice. Yours definitely looks like it's in much better shape. Mine has a lot of cracked insulation and corroded connections. Plus, there are a few places where there's been a bad patch job (admittedly some of them are *my* bad patch jobs). I suppose I could try to salvage some of it, but if I'm going to redo some of it, I might as well do all of it.
RE: the carbs, I'm following this carb tutorial: http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/...d_Tutorial.pdf and it says to only put them in the dip for the bare minimum of time, particularly with fresh dip. As the carbs weren't in too bad shape, I figured 6 hours should do the job. Is that not enough?
They came out gleaming! I was going to blow them out tomorrow with the carb spray (per the tutorial) to make sure they were good. Do you think I should just put them back in the dip?
RE: The harness: My photo doesn't really do it justice. Yours definitely looks like it's in much better shape. Mine has a lot of cracked insulation and corroded connections. Plus, there are a few places where there's been a bad patch job (admittedly some of them are *my* bad patch jobs). I suppose I could try to salvage some of it, but if I'm going to redo some of it, I might as well do all of it.
RE: the carbs, I'm following this carb tutorial: http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/...d_Tutorial.pdf and it says to only put them in the dip for the bare minimum of time, particularly with fresh dip. As the carbs weren't in too bad shape, I figured 6 hours should do the job. Is that not enough?
They came out gleaming! I was going to blow them out tomorrow with the carb spray (per the tutorial) to make sure they were good. Do you think I should just put them back in the dip?
G
GateKeeper
Guest
If your finding them clean then no no need for being in the cleaner longer, but check all the crevices, nooks and crannies, if nothing is left then your 6 hours should be OK, and your using the carb cleaner stuff, I used PineSol, so I was OK to leave it as long as possible, the only crud, and very little, that I had left was in the bottom of the bowls, otherwise mine came out really good.
Yes if you have a bad harness, broken wires, burnt wires, then a new one would be in order, but if it's just the exterior insulation, take that off and put on some new stuff, connectors can be cleaned or replaced. Mine was in really good shape, no cracks, burns, etc, so I just cleaned up all the connections and new tape, and greased all the connections, and re-installed, unless I start melting wires, I should be good for another 30 years....LOL
Yes if you have a bad harness, broken wires, burnt wires, then a new one would be in order, but if it's just the exterior insulation, take that off and put on some new stuff, connectors can be cleaned or replaced. Mine was in really good shape, no cracks, burns, etc, so I just cleaned up all the connections and new tape, and greased all the connections, and re-installed, unless I start melting wires, I should be good for another 30 years....LOL
K
Karstan
Guest
Today, I don't feel like I accomplished much, even though I spent about 5 hours on the bike. I dipped the #2 carb and then tackled the bike, hoping to get the frame finally stripped of parts.
The swingarm, rear shock, and fork all came off pretty easily. I forgot to take a photo of the fork though:
The engine was a bear. Everyone says it's difficult to remove, but I couldn't find any info in the forums about how to go about it, other than turning the frame on it's side. I tried taking the valve covers off, but they wouldn't come off with the engine in place. After fiddling with it for an hour or two, I decided to take off the oil pan. And voila! The engine popped right out, further adding to the nice oil slick I've got on the floor of my friend's garage (I will be scrubbing that up on the next nice day we have).
A couple photos of the frame:
Unfortunately, the weather forecast doesn't call for any nice days in the next week. so I'm not sure when I'll get a chance to clean all the grease and grime up and get started on prepping for paint. In the meantime, I'll continue to work on the carbs and maybe fiddle with the engine a bit.
The swingarm, rear shock, and fork all came off pretty easily. I forgot to take a photo of the fork though:
The engine was a bear. Everyone says it's difficult to remove, but I couldn't find any info in the forums about how to go about it, other than turning the frame on it's side. I tried taking the valve covers off, but they wouldn't come off with the engine in place. After fiddling with it for an hour or two, I decided to take off the oil pan. And voila! The engine popped right out, further adding to the nice oil slick I've got on the floor of my friend's garage (I will be scrubbing that up on the next nice day we have).
A couple photos of the frame:
Unfortunately, the weather forecast doesn't call for any nice days in the next week. so I'm not sure when I'll get a chance to clean all the grease and grime up and get started on prepping for paint. In the meantime, I'll continue to work on the carbs and maybe fiddle with the engine a bit.
K
Karstan
Guest
No photos to post today. I just finished cleaning up all the nuts, bolts, and screws and took them to get zinc plated. I also picked up some stainless bolts for the carburetor and exhaust pipes.
Speaking of the carburetor, I dipped the #3 carb today and managed to lose that itty-bitty washer from under that pilot screw when I was rinsing everything off. I don't suppose anyone knows where I can get a solitary washer? I've only seen full kits on all the vendor sites.
Speaking of the carburetor, I dipped the #3 carb today and managed to lose that itty-bitty washer from under that pilot screw when I was rinsing everything off. I don't suppose anyone knows where I can get a solitary washer? I've only seen full kits on all the vendor sites.
J
Johnson
Guest
7
7981GS
Guest
I could try and find out if I could buy a hundred of them for under $1.00 tomorrow if you wish.
Eric
K
Karstan
Guest
Hey Johnson, thanks! I don't know how I missed those on the cycleorings site before.
7981G -
I don't need that many, and for a few cents more I get to support a site I'm a fan of. Thanks!
7981G -
I don't need that many, and for a few cents more I get to support a site I'm a fan of. Thanks!
K
Karstan
Guest
Dragged the frame out for some cleaning today:
Then I thought I might clean the engine up a bit:
I don't know how I'm ever going to get that engine clean enough for painting.
It's still all greasy.
Then I thought I might clean the engine up a bit:
I don't know how I'm ever going to get that engine clean enough for painting.
It's still all greasy.
7
7981GS
Guest
I don't know how I'm ever going to get that engine clean enough for painting.
It looks great the way it is.
Just continue to spray de-greaser on it and scrub some more.
Eric
D
DannyMotor
Guest
It looks great the way it is.
Just continue to spray de-greaser on it and scrub some more.
Eric
:dancing:Agree!!!
It looks perfect!
K
Karstan
Guest
I wish it looked as good in real life as it does in these photos!
K
Karstan
Guest
While I was dipping the #4 carb today, I put the wire wheel on my angle grinder and went to town on the frame:
Remind me to put in ear plugs next time!
Remind me to put in ear plugs next time!
G
GateKeeper
Guest
OK,,,,put in ear plugs next time......
Hey it's looking good, keep up the good work
Hey it's looking good, keep up the good work
K
Karstan
Guest
Thanks, GK! I think my ears are STILL ringing from that.
And today's update:
I only spent a couple hours on the bike itself. My carbs are still waiting for some parts to come in the mail (those itty bitty washers). The frame is waiting for some non-humid weather before I lay down some primer. And the engine is waiting for some bolts to come back from being plated so I can do some bench testing (I should have done that before I removed them, but that's how it happens, I guess).
So I cleaned up some parts (my least favorite thing to do):
That was about all the cleaning I had in me, so putzed around on the engine. First I took the intake boots off. All but two of the screws had to be cut with a dremel (I didn't take any photos of these). The boots look to be in really good condition and I already have replacement bolts (from cycleorings.com).
Next, I took a closer look at the exhaust port bolt-holes (I know that's not the right term, but I'm tired and can't think of the right one). I thought I had two broken bolts in there (from the PO) but I turned out to be wrong. One of them appears to have been welded (like GK's) but never drilled and tapped.
I had trouble taking a good photo. That circular region on the left of the weld is a partially drilled (at the wrong angle) hole. I don't think it will hurt me when I try to drill it properly
The other is just a typical snapped bolt. I tried to cut a notch in it to take out with a flathead screw bit (I've been using my ratchet with screwdriver bits for all the screws to get better torque).
The bolt wouldn't budge and just stripped my notch. So, I'll try soaking it for a few days in penetrating oil and then do some heat and torquing before I try to drill it out.
And then I decided to take a trip to Harbor Freight to look at compressors and spray guns. I've been thinking about trying to paint everything myself and I've had really poor luck with rattlecans in the past. I ended up coming home with an 8 gallon, 2hp compressor and a gun to match. It set me back about $150. That was about $80 more than I wanted to spend, but it turns out the smaller compressors don't put out enough air for the paint guns. To try to make it hurt a little less, I got a $6 "engine washing" attachment for the compressor that I hope will help with the parts cleaning.
And today's update:
I only spent a couple hours on the bike itself. My carbs are still waiting for some parts to come in the mail (those itty bitty washers). The frame is waiting for some non-humid weather before I lay down some primer. And the engine is waiting for some bolts to come back from being plated so I can do some bench testing (I should have done that before I removed them, but that's how it happens, I guess).
So I cleaned up some parts (my least favorite thing to do):
That was about all the cleaning I had in me, so putzed around on the engine. First I took the intake boots off. All but two of the screws had to be cut with a dremel (I didn't take any photos of these). The boots look to be in really good condition and I already have replacement bolts (from cycleorings.com).
Next, I took a closer look at the exhaust port bolt-holes (I know that's not the right term, but I'm tired and can't think of the right one). I thought I had two broken bolts in there (from the PO) but I turned out to be wrong. One of them appears to have been welded (like GK's) but never drilled and tapped.
I had trouble taking a good photo. That circular region on the left of the weld is a partially drilled (at the wrong angle) hole. I don't think it will hurt me when I try to drill it properly
The other is just a typical snapped bolt. I tried to cut a notch in it to take out with a flathead screw bit (I've been using my ratchet with screwdriver bits for all the screws to get better torque).
The bolt wouldn't budge and just stripped my notch. So, I'll try soaking it for a few days in penetrating oil and then do some heat and torquing before I try to drill it out.
And then I decided to take a trip to Harbor Freight to look at compressors and spray guns. I've been thinking about trying to paint everything myself and I've had really poor luck with rattlecans in the past. I ended up coming home with an 8 gallon, 2hp compressor and a gun to match. It set me back about $150. That was about $80 more than I wanted to spend, but it turns out the smaller compressors don't put out enough air for the paint guns. To try to make it hurt a little less, I got a $6 "engine washing" attachment for the compressor that I hope will help with the parts cleaning.
G
GateKeeper
Guest
Every time I come to this thread I almost feel like I am in my own thread just a bit further back.....in time...
Really take your time on that one broken bolt, bad enough having one buggered up hole no need to have a second, and hope you have good luck on that welded one as well, watch the angle of the hole when you go to drill a new one....
your making good progress
Really take your time on that one broken bolt, bad enough having one buggered up hole no need to have a second, and hope you have good luck on that welded one as well, watch the angle of the hole when you go to drill a new one....
your making good progress
K
Karstan
Guest
Ha! GK, I have to admit I've been using your thread as a bit of a template.
Well, progress:
Today I got all the bits back from platers. Shiny!
And I spent a good deal of time yesterday and today getting the carbs put back together. Just waiting on the caps to be painted:
I wrapped up the day working on the left cover (stator cover). It had some bad road rash, including some super deep gouges. I tried the wire wheel on it first. But that just seemed to make things worse, adding pits and not really removing the gouges. So I switched over to 150 grit sandpaper. That seemed to work much better. It still needs a lot of work, but it's progress!
Well, progress:
Today I got all the bits back from platers. Shiny!
And I spent a good deal of time yesterday and today getting the carbs put back together. Just waiting on the caps to be painted:
I wrapped up the day working on the left cover (stator cover). It had some bad road rash, including some super deep gouges. I tried the wire wheel on it first. But that just seemed to make things worse, adding pits and not really removing the gouges. So I switched over to 150 grit sandpaper. That seemed to work much better. It still needs a lot of work, but it's progress!
