1985 Suzuki GS700EF

[cyclefvr2]

wellp im fin mad! nice work!, i had to repair mine and somehow i ended up with a broke fuel needle!!,i t did work i moved the lil needle,and it even worked after that , than riding after assembling it all of a suddon quit!
nice work again:clap:

 

[tejasmud]

Thanks for the comments. I often find it easier to just make things that usually end in disgust from searching the World over and over.

Now, after I wrote up a post to have it deleted by the "Server is too busy, try again later" screen. I'll make another attempt. lol

So, here is the next update on this project. Sort of like the gauge needles, I searched to find the elusive 8mm banjos to do a SST oil line upgrade for the lines going from the transmission to the head, but as the days went by. Found 8mm banjos that would work with AN-2 and AN-3, but on this application I wanted AN-4. Thus the decision to just make the darn things and be done with it arrived.

Anyway, here we goes.

I started off with a piece of 2 in aluminum hex bar, drilled the through hole, cut the counterbore, and turned the undercut on the inside.

Then needed to knock them down a bit to fit in the tight confines between the carburetor boots.

Not really knowing in the beginning what they were going to look like, here is the end result. A nice pair of 8mm banjo x 1/8" NPT fittings.

Here is the end result mounted up. Thanks AN Plumbing for the purchased hose, hose ends, and adaptors. If it is not in stock they will call you to either give you an alternative, awesome customer service.

 

[tejasmud]

The front oil cooling lines are still in progress. Pretty sure the 60? swivel seal fittings as shown will clear okay. I may change up and go with some hard tube to get a true 90?, but still thinking about it. The 90? swivel seal fittings + 9/16 banjo were about 1/8" short of clearing the lower boss for the horn.

Next project was working on the handle bar controls for the bike.

On the Left side, the OEM switch (headlight, turn signal, and horn) is obsolete. So, I decided to go with a 1988 GSXR750 switch. The little nub on the inside was knocked out using a drimel as to where no hole would need to be drilled into the bars. The end connector is identical to the GS700E conector. One wire is different per color code.

On the Right side, I did buy a OEM replacement, but needed to go with a push-pull throttle. This left this side really tight for space. Here is the set up; Motion Pro push-pull throttle, K&S Kill-Starter Switch (width 29.3mm), and a Chrome Master Cylinder, which I thought it was a 15mm piston bore, but it appears to be 14mm. I may convert over to a 88' GSXR750 master, but still have not decided just yet.

The bars are still pushed out a bit, and will get pulled back once the tank and body work is completed. For now they are just hanging out there.

 

[tejasmud]

Here are a few more items that are in the works.

One is the permanent sync block added to the frame where the OE airbox was mounted. It will be tucked up under the tank, but need to remove the tank to sync anyway.

Next is the box for the Innovate LMA3. This little tool is fun to play with. I have used it on other bikes in the past to do tuning, and along with the LM1 that will be popped into the map pocket on the tank bag. It pretty much takes all the guessing and frustration out of tuning.

LMA3 can connect up to 5 sensors, 0-5v, and connect to the LM1, which can record about 45 minutes of data. It has a built in MAP sensor, and G-force accelerometer, and I'll also be measuring RPM, MPH, and possibly TPS. Still need to design something for the throttle position, but it's doable.

The box was purchased from McMaster Carr.

The bracket was fabricated to mount on the lower mount for the OE airbox.

 

[67fire]

Beautiful CRAFTSMANSHIP!
Thanks for sharing with us and don't stop...
PLEASE!

Eric

 

[tejasmud]

Next up are the Tarozzi rearsets with folding knurled pegs. Just received them from Fast from the Past, and in process of getting them mounted up.
Not shown yet is the fork brace as well. Special Thanks to Jim Hinshaw at Fast from the Past for the up front service, and follow up.

As with most thing we envision and assume sometimes things don't mount like you pictured.

Here is how Tarozzi designed the rearsets to mount. They basically mount to the OE brackets for the rear pegs/exhaust mount.

This would be fine and dandy for those wanting to keep the passenger pegs. Shoot, I know there have been a many of times I have practically layed down on the 700E using the rear foot pegs. lol

They simply mount into the holes as so. this puts them back about 4 inches, and up around 1 to 1.5 inches.

But, I could not stop there. In the process of making some adapters to place the rearsets exactly how I pictured in my mind.

Possibly next week until I finish up and paint the adapters, but here is the rough cut.

 

[tejasmud]

Beautiful CRAFTSMANSHIP!
Thanks for sharing with us and don't stop...
PLEASE!

Eric

Thanks.

Lots more to come. Just finding the time.

 

[tejasmud]

One more carb body to give the ole' "spritz with the spray can carb cleaner"

































































































































After about 4 hrs of the dip in the gallon can. The carbs I purchased off the bay were in real good shape for the most part. If they carbs had been sitting on a bike for 20 years the cleaning process would be much different.

Here are the components purchased so far for the tuning process. Some are from a previous arsenal. More on the way, but sometimes this is what it takes. Most of them were purchased from Z1 Enterprises, an awesome outfit up in NY State. Fastest parts service I have come about yet. Hats off to the whole crew at Z1.

Love the new round Sticker.

Now for the bad news turned good news.

Ever seen this come out of one of your delicate carburetors?

This was/is a BS30-97-0.8 air jet that had been boogered up in carb #4. The pic is the aftermath of surgery done to remove it.

This is a good, prime example of never stick a screw driver that is not the correct one into a jet. I have the right drivers, just making it clear to why.

It will mess up a wet dream in a heartbeat.

Also, if the surgery is not done correctly, good bye carb body. It took about 2 hours to get this jet out on a mill with the jet indicated in.

Anyway.

Marching on.

 

[tarzanscot]

This is the type of build that i think we GS'ers aspire for. The quality of craftmanship is amazing, i also agree.

 

[Rkt-Rch]

All I can say is Sweet !!! I wish I had the time/money/etc.. But looking at the detailed job your doing makes me want to go polish somthing or add some dual oil cooler fans or somthing.

 

[oshanac]

TEJASMUD-Thank you for your time and great pics! It's an awesome post!!!

 

[tejasmud]

Thanks!

It does take time, none of which I have it seems, and money, which I save for each bit one by one. It has been a sort of "long haul" type of restore/customization. About at $5k now, and she still ain't back to running yet.

Soon though.

One thing, I'm blessed to have worked as a machinest in a past life, and have a friend who allows me to do things in his shop. Sometimes I feel awkward posting these things, but maybe it will give others ideas.

Ya know, really wish I could weld worth a darn, and/or even zinc plate parts. Probably could have saved a little bit. Shoot, chrome plate would be real slick.

Here soon, need to learn how to repair dents and paint the bodywork.

Anyways,

Will have an update on the front cooling lines soon with the parts list from AN Plumbing, and how I could get it to work. Also almost finished with the adaptors for the rearsets. Don't know if I want to go polished or just spray them black.

Anything polished takes a little longer, but there is too much black going on already.....I'm thinking polished to keep with the lines of the original. Although original was brushed finish. hmmm.....

 

[jwhelan65]

Thanks for the comments. I often find it easier to just make things that usually end in disgust from searching the World over and over.

Now, after I wrote up a post to have it deleted by the "Server is too busy, try again later" screen. I'll make another attempt. lol

So, here is the next update on this project. Sort of like the gauge needles, I searched to find the elusive 8mm banjos to do a SST oil line upgrade for the lines going from the transmission to the head, but as the days went by. Found 8mm banjos that would work with AN-2 and AN-3, but on this application I wanted AN-4. Thus the decision to just make the darn things and be done with it arrived.

Anyway, here we goes.

I started off with a piece of 2 in aluminum hex bar, drilled the through hole, cut the counterbore, and turned the undercut on the inside.

Then needed to knock them down a bit to fit in the tight confines between the carburetor boots.

Not really knowing in the beginning what they were going to look like, here is the end result. A nice pair of 8mm banjo x 1/8" NPT fittings.

Here is the end result mounted up. Thanks AN Plumbing for the purchased hose, hose ends, and adaptors. If it is not in stock they will call you to either give you an alternative, awesome customer service.

That is some cool stuff! Looks totally trick! Great idea on the machining. I am thinking on doing this mod ( front lines) on the 1100, I have an 1150 cooler, lines and the cover to do the conversion. Great job..can't wait to see this thing.

 

[Rkt-Rch]

Polish.... Get yourself a die grinder and some scotchbrite (or simular) deburring wheels they cut your time down by 75% compared with the dremmel and SS/wheels .. I know you still have to use the dremmel in various areas but it will help. Been there sanded,sanded,steel wooled,etc....done that. Again great post keep up the motorcycle porn.

 

[AJKnowles700E]

What was the part number for these? I looked the other night and could not find them. Are they part of a kit or is each piece seperate? Thanks for the posts, I have been reading and looking since day one! Very inspirational

Next up are the Tarozzi rearsets with folding knurled pegs. Just received them from Fast from the Past, and in process of getting them mounted up.
Not shown yet is the fork brace as well. Special Thanks to Jim Hinshaw at Fast from the Past for the up front service, and follow up.

As with most thing we envision and assume sometimes things don't mount like you pictured.

Here is how Tarozzi designed the rearsets to mount. They basically mount to the OE brackets for the rear pegs/exhaust mount.

This would be fine and dandy for those wanting to keep the passenger pegs. Shoot, I know there have been a many of times I have practically layed down on the 700E using the rear foot pegs. lol

They simply mount into the holes as so. this puts them back about 4 inches, and up around 1 to 1.5 inches.

But, I could not stop there. In the process of making some adapters to place the rearsets exactly how I pictured in my mind.

Possibly next week until I finish up and paint the adapters, but here is the rough cut.

 

[tejasmud]

What was the part number for these?

Thanks.

The rearsets Part #19-0064 . This would be for the 83' GSX750.

Here is the link to the folding knureld sets.

http://www.fastfromthepast.com/servlet/the-432/Rearsets-Folding-Knurled-Footpegs/Detail

Tarozzi make the sets in rubber folding/non-folding and knurled folding/non-folding.

 

[tejasmud]

Polish.... Get yourself a die grinder and some scotchbrite (or simular) deburring wheels they cut your time down by 75% compared with the dremmel and SS/wheels .. I know you still have to use the dremmel in various areas but it will help. Been there sanded,sanded,steel wooled,etc....done that. Again great post keep up the motorcycle porn.

I think polishing them too would be best.

Now, I can't afford them fancy tools, all my money is spent on parts. :lol:

Y'all would think I'm fibbing, but my tool boxes are a couple of old battery boxes, one metric one Standard, and also just where ever tools may roam. Garage floor for the most part, along with nuts, bolts, and parts.

That's why all my pics are in the parking lot.

 

[tejasmud]

Update Time with lots of pictures.

First, here is the list on the parts purchased on the FRONT cooling lines. The parts were purchased through ANPlumbing.com. Link is below.

http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/

Parts List

Qty 4 Banjos Part# 977606 -6 AN to 9/16? Banjo
Qty 2 Hose Ends Part# 804606 Swivel-Seal 45? Tube -6 AN to -6 Hose End
Qty 2 Hose Ends Part# 806106 Swivel-Seal 60? Tube -6 AN to -6 Hose End
Qty 3ft Hose Part# 400060 Perform-O-Flex -6
Qty 1 (3 per pkg) Clamps Part# 170209 9/16? Polished Line Clamps


Now, this from my limited experience with assembling the hoses as the fittings and hose are not cheap. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS! Be a perfectionist on preparing the end of the hose is best, use oil, mark the hose, ect. Trying to pull the hose back off after tightening the swivel seal fittings sometimes like to grab the hose, and there will be a small piece inside the fitting. It can be removed, but just be delicate on working it out with an exact-o- knife. Initially I had cut the hose to the precise length, after purchasing 4ft of hose, this issue allowed me to purchase another 3ft to correct the issue, and move up the learning curve a little.

Picture of the hose end with hose inside the barb.

How did I learn this?

Well, originally I went with 90? Tube Swivel-Seal fittings, on the top portion of the hose, but once installed the fitting end hit the boss on the frame for the horn. This could be the 700ES fairing mount, not exactly sure. So to remedy this I went with 60? Swivel-Seal tube fittings at the top, and added 0.35? spacers behind the oil cooler bracket to pull it out so the hose would not rub against the head.

This is a picture of two different sizes of spacers, 0.35? and 0.4? made from UV rated Delrin.

Here is a picture of the spacers behind the oil cooler bracket, and the thickness may vary from frame to frame. This was just my solution in this particular case to make sure nothing rubs. SST hose is very abrasive.

Here is a picture of my solution on the replacing the OEM clamps.

They use the same mounting holes as the OEM clamps, just more suited for the Perform-O-Flex Hose. Cleaner look to my eye. Here is a picture of the inside where the clamp attaches to the frame.

At the top and base the original banjo bolts were used, but I did purchase the crush washers. Here is a picture of the base of the engine where the cooling lines connect.

Need to scrub a little here still, and repaint the filter cap, but??

 

[tejasmud]

And there is more.

Taking some time off to polish had it?s ?Up?s and Down?s?, so while in the process of inching along in that project I decided to ?Flog the Harness.?

First thing was to acquire many connectors from;

Vintage Connections (Decent Shipping times)
http://www.vintageconnections.com/

Oregon Motorcycle Parts (Decent Shipping times)
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/

Eastern Beaver (Decent Shipping times, coming from Japan)
http://www.easternbeaver.com/

Second purchase was 5/8? ID, ?? ID, and 1/8? ID (before shrink) PVC tubing from McMaster Carr, and 14 AWG Red, Black, and Yellow from the local auto supply. Yellow was not used, being I will wire the stator leads directly to the R/R.

Picture of the connectors, I chose to go with all locking style.

A picture of the bigger picture of the nook table.

On the instrument panel the plug is proprietary, I think, or at least I didn?t want to search for one. The pins were in great shape, so this is where I started.

Removed all the black tape, made a note of where each color coded wire/pin was located in the connector, removed the pins with a large needle, cleaned the connector, and the wires with alcohol.

A picture of process.

Next the wires were fed into a length of 5/8? shrink tubing, heated with the heat gun, protector placed back on, dielectric grease added to each pin as reinserted into the connector.

Here is a picture just after the shrink job.

Here is a picture of the headlight bucket connectors end of the harness.

Picture of the right side harness end, brake light switch, tail light, flasher relay, harness ground, and the remaining two bullets are either the fuel level or kick stand switch. Don?t remember.

Then here is an over all view of the completed harness.

 

[tejasmud]

Next up is the Stator replacement, and other things.

As suspected, the stator appeared to be in less than desirable shape, and while the cover was off might as well replace it.

Picture of Old Stator.

A New stator was purchased from Rick?s, and inserted into the cove after the cover was polished. Picture of the Part # and stator installed.

Upon removal of them dern, stinking, lousy, strip prone, four letter word, Phillips head screws that hold the stator in I went down to ACE Hardware and acquired a really nice set of 3 chrome plated allen head cap screws, and added Loc-tite.

Picture of the nice shinny chrome cap screws for the wire retaining clips as well.

Now since I was in the vicinity of the starter, and rerouting the stator wires it was only natural that the $1 to $2 o-ring be replaced as well.

So, while I had the clutch cover off to polish, yep, need a new oil level sight glass, which pops out easily with a couple of sockets and a hydraulic jack, or an arbor press.

And, might as well change the clutch springs. Left is the OEM, right is the EBC.

Also, I mean while we are in there right, how could I forget the fiber plates either. We will try the EBC on these as well.

The 4 side covers were polished. Well sort of like 4, one had a small one, we?ll call it 4 and ?.

And alas the Valve Cover.