1985 Suzuki GS700EF

[tejasmud]

Thanks Doug.



Came across a minor issue yesterday, the crests of the threads had finally pulled out on the oil pan drain plug hole.

So, it was off to find a Heli-coil to fix this minor issue, but instead I found a “Fix-A-Thread” kit at Auto-Zone. It looks like it might hold up better than a Heli-Coil in this application.

The kit contains the following tools and inserts. Top is a drive punch to flair the insert once installed. The tap is 3 in 1, M14 x 1.25, a cutter to get to the larger thread, and then the larger thread sized for the insert (not sure of the size/pitch). Three lengths of inserts were included, and all for about $30. They do carry inserts individually for about $10 for six various sizes. 2 of each pictured from what I could tell looking at the package.

A close up of the inserts. The knurled end goes towards the outside of the thread being repaired. The flair tool spreads out the top of the insert to help retain it in the part.

First, the threads that had pulled at the crests were picked out, and the tap tool was used with tap fluid to cut the new threads for the insert.

After cleaning/degreasing the newly threaded hole the instructions say to apply “high-temp silicon,” but instead I chose to mix up a small portion of JB Weld to apply to the female and male threads before installing the insert. I used a M14 x 1.25 bolt to drive the insert into it’s new home, and then wiped off the excess epoxy. Next, since I used the middle length insert it protruded a few mm above the base of the oil pan, but this was relieved by using a Drimel tool with a thin grinding wheel.

The thread insert was chassed with the M14 x 1.25 portion of the tapping tool to clean up the threads where grinding the relief may have booged up the threads.

From the outside it looks like so.

From another angle. Problem solved.

Next up will be the TPS installation. I had taken some pics, but they are not the clearest.

E

 

[jwhelan65]

Good info Eric, I have the same problem on one of the valve cover bolts. Wondering if this kit would work to repair it?

As always fabulous work man!

 

[tejasmud]

Good info Eric, I have the same problem on one of the valve cover bolts. Wondering if this kit would work to repair it?

As always fabulous work man!

Hey Joe,

On the valve cover bolt, they make these inserts for different size/pitch threads if I remember right. But not sure if it comes with the tap tool and punch. If it does come with the tap tool it might not help on a cover bolt, if the hole is a blind hole. But, you could just drill and tap to the larger diameter thread of the insert like inserting a heli-coil and it would work.

I would say just heli-coil it, but these insert type look like they would hold up better on a a thread that need to go through periodic service intervals like valve adjustments, oil changes, or the likes. They go in similar to a heli-coil, but no tang to break off is nice too.

BTW, I found them on the tool isle at auto-zone.

 

[tejasmud]

Okay, TPS (Throttle Position Sensor).

Here is a picture of the "String Pot" that will serve as the TPS sensor.

Here it is in the "Idle" position.

Then at "Wide Open Throttle." There is a slight swing radius, but not much.

And this is where it is mounted to the frame. Simple insulated clamps to a bracket fabricated out of 1/8" aluminum sheet.

This will be one of the sensors plugged in to the Innovate LMA3. It will take a 5v signal from the built in 5v output off the LMA3.

This will be one of 6 measurement devices on the bike during tuning. Built into the LMA3 is acceleration (measured in G) and MAP, but these channels can be changed to read any 0-5 signal device if desired.

RPM will be measured by "Induction Clamp" off one of the primary wires to the coils.

MPH needs to be thought out on mounting the sensor, but it is a 2 magnet and hall sensor setup.

This leaves MAP or CHT, which both are sort of useless as far as what to do with them.

Maybe rig up a shift indicator, not sure yet.

The O2 sensor mounted in the pipe will plug directly into the LM1. After the bike is tuned in, sensors will come off except the O2 sensor. This will be plugged into a LC1 cable and a digital gauge mounted up near instrument cluster.

Here is a pic of the Bosch O2 sensor in the collector on the pipe mounted.

I have played with this on another bike before, and once up and running, postings on jet changes, needle position, air jet changes, graphs, lots of cool stuff.






E

 

[tejasmud]

We have rear brakes now, filled, bled, and pumped ready for action.
Then there are the front brakes mounted up now as well. Still need to fill and do the drill on these.
In some of the other earlier pics it showed the brackets to the fronts semi-polished out.
Just didn't look right, so went with OE black.

Coils mounted up and ready. Switched to button head Allen heads on the hardware.

Here is something I sort of had to think about.

The blank holes where the OE front pegs mounted. At first I thought of making some plugs to bolt in
using the peg mounting holes under the covers. These would come flush with the covers on the outside,
and possibly made from plastic and painted over..

But then I thought why not just fill them in with epoxy, smooth them out, and paint.

Anyways, here is the result. I'm pleased, and hopefully they won't buzz apart.
Ah, well if so then back to the drawing board.

Right side.

Then the Left side.

E

 

[tejasmud]

Think I have made a decision on the Napoleon mirrors. Just not the look I have in mind.

Maybe use them for inspection when time comes. lol

Here is a few pics without the Napoleons with the bike parked on the paddock stand.

Back to the grind folks.

 

[jwhelan65]

Goin to get more popcorn...

 

[rapidray]

This thing is turning out beautifully!!! Keep up the good work! Ray.

 

[tejasmud]

Thanks Ray!


How was the popcorn Joe? Cook up some more. lol


Well, hooked up the battery, put the key in the ignition, turned the key, and nothing.

Took a minute to figure out, pull the wires from the fuse box connector and redo it being it was backwards. duh..

Then turned the key, pushed the kill to on, pushed the start button, and she turns over.

Pulled out the multi-meter to check voltage at the coils with the switch on, ≈ 12v. I then pulled #1 and #2 plug caps off and plugged them into some new plugs and, grounded them the engine. When I turned it over again we have fire.

Now with the oil primed in the engine and fire at the coils it was time to add fuel.

Remote fuel supply, a $5 bottle from the tractor store like this with the ball cut off of the tip, a $3 quarter turn valve with some $2 barb nipples, and some clear fuel line. I also drilled a small 0.125” hole in the top of the bottle to allow for displacement.

After priming the carburetors and not seeing anything peeing out under the bike, applied the ‘Choke,’ turned the key, and pressed the start button.


Then, after two or three revolutions.


Vvvvv-woooooomm.

Turned off the choke, adjusted the idle. It was running a bit rich with #25 pilots, discovered the vacuum line was not plugged also, so put my thumb on the open hose.

Man it sounded Sweet!

Then she died. #1 and #4 pipes went cold, and then it would not start.

Pulled the coil, moved the trigger wire so it was not touching the frame anymore, pulled the carbs and put in #20 pilots, adjusted the air screws to 1 turn from lightly seated, put in another set of plugs, filled up the fuel bottle again and primed the carbs, applied the choke, and turned the key.

Vvvvv-woooooomm.


Adjusted the idle then revved it up a few times…

Turned the key off, grabbed the manometer, pulled off the caps at the remote sync plate, plugged in the tubes, and checked the sync. #3 was off slightly after bench sync, but now adjusted. #1 looks like it could come down some, but will wait until I plug in the petcock.

Now I just need to wait until I can get it on the road before running it more.


I found these vacuum lines to spiff up the SST line look. Made by Spectre, and purchased at Auto-zone.

The Innovate LM1 wideband air/fuel meter showed it was running around 13.5:1 or so. +/- 0.5:1 at idle.

The plugs looked light tan except for #2, but just need to do the “highest idle” adjustment later then


Here is a little video I put together on some of the events.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPfm7pULFaM

 

[tejasmud]

Speaking of video, here is a little toy I picked up as an onboard cam.

It comes with various mounting pieces. Bar mount, strap mount, velcro/rubber straps and pads, and mini tri-pod.

http://helmetcameracentral.com/2006/11/06/oregon-scientific-atc2k-atc-2000-helmet-camera/


I have seen them cost anywhere as low as $60 for just the cam kit, to $70 with SD cards on Amazon plus shipping

It beats trying to figure out how to mount a higher cost camcorder in fear of loosing it to the pavement. It is water-proof, which they say people use these on kayak adventures, so rain will not hurt it.

2 AA batteries, a 4G SD card, no wires. Pretty slick. Something to play with, so more videos to come.

Also picked up some different bar end mirrors. Don't know how vibey they are going to be, but guess pretty bad. We shall see.

 

[tejasmud]

Now, back to getting the body parts done.

A Left Red ES panel arrived today, and is free of cracks and has all the mounting tabs. So that solves those issues.

I also didn't want sending the Left Blue to Reproduction to slow the painting progress.

For the paint I’ll be shooting PPG Deltron system with the DeVilbiss “Starting Line” HVLP gun set.

http://www.eastwood.com/devilbiss-auto-paint-and-touch-up-system.html



Specifics on the PPG paint as follows.

Prima K36 on the primer
Deltron 2000 (DBC Tricoat)
“Silky White/Diamond White” (Mitsubishi) Main Layer 5885/1
“Pearl” (Mitsubishi) Tinted Clearcoat/Transparent Coat 5885/2
Concept DCU2002 as the clear.

Hardener will be DCX61
Reducer will be DT885
Surfacer will be K201

On this I’ll also be using DX814 as the flex-agent, which sort of bites. Being I’ll only be using a couple of full caps of it, and it only comes in a Qt. @ ≈$45. Initially they didn’t mention the flex-agent in the quote on the paint, but being the side panels are plastic, sort of long, and get pulled on and off from time to time I figure it would not hurt. They said, “I could mount the parts on the bike and mask off then paint.” Lol

Yea Right!

This will be my first attempt with quality materials. They say it is all about prep. Well, I have and still am doing my homework, and at this point not about to rush it. Goal is to paint the base and clear Memorial Day weekend, but all depends on the weather.

Well, back to sanding.

 

[jwhelan65]

Ah geez me popcorn is empty...I be right back.

 

[Nessism]

Bike is looking killer!

If you use DP primer and 201 hardner there is no need for flex agents. With the primer you have I suggest you keep it as thin as possible so it doesn't chip off. Oh, and that 2002 clear is awesome! I love that stuff! They sadly don't sell it in my neck of the woods anymore, even for car restoration use.

 

[tejasmud]

Bike is looking killer!

If you use DP primer and 201 hardner there is no need for flex agents. With the primer you have I suggest you keep it as thin as possible so it doesn't chip off. Oh, and that 2002 clear is awesome! I love that stuff! They sadly don't sell it in my neck of the woods anymore, even for car restoration use.

Thanks Ed.

I had read the primer doesn't really need any flex agent. The paint guy mentioned using it in the primer, but not really needed. I'll keep it as thin as possible as you suggest. From what I read on the primer and base it recomends keeping them thin, just want it to the point that it hides.

That sucks that the 2002 clear is not avaliable. The paint guy said it was nice to work with. I have no clue yet. lol

In all it is going to run about $400 for all listed plus a couple gallons of cleaner. Mixing sticks and strainers were free.

On the original decals I found soaking them in the tub with hot water helps getting them off. Seems to soften them up so they peel off better.
Just need to get under the original clear coat. I was afraid I would be sanding for days.

E

 

[tejasmud]

Hey Ed, did you mean ?thin? as in adding 10% reducer to the primer? The tech doc says adding reducer will give it a 1 hr pot life as opposed to ? hour, and it will spray better. Sounds like the thing to do.

Anyways, here is a little update on the preparation to paint the body panels, tank and front fender.

I decided to start off with the plastics by soaking them in the bathtub in hot water, and scrub them clean with soap. Scrubbed them down, and started picking at the original decals, and they were not too hard to remove. One thing I would mention is ?not? to sand on them first. What sanding does is it thins out the decal and makes it difficult to peel. I had sanded the right side panel in the beginning, not good, but was able to pick off the decal, which it just took more effort. Here is a picture of some of the aftermath.

Once the decals were removed the adhesive needed to be scrubbed off. I used some stuff called Krud Kutter that I had picked up at walmart. Then it was time to sand down the ridge of clear coat left after decal removal. Wet sanded first with 320 grit, let the parts dry, and then feathered it in until I could not feel any transition. Here is the left panel.

Here is the tail.

I also acquired a set of rear reflectors of the bay being the PO had removed them, and they were long gone.

The right side panel had a crack on the leading edge that needed fixing. As I looked closer at the mounting tab in this location it had been repaired at some point with epoxy. The crack and tab were reinforced from the back side with fiberglass. Here is a picture of the scuffed area of the panel.

Here is a picture of the final repair to the back side. I have done this many times on bike plastics in the past, and it holds up well.

The flexible plastic front fender in the beginning seemed like it was going to be a lot of work. The front of the fender had a large area that the original paint had cracked, and there were other places where the paint had chipped off. I don?t know what they painted the fender with, but it was tough as nails. Coarse emery cloth dented it with a lot of force.
Sort of mulled it over for a day and skipped to the tank to figure the plan on it. While I was at O?Rileys I noticed some Klean Strip Auto Aircraft? Paint Remover for Flexible Plastic.

Sprayed it on and the paint just curled up then rinsed it with soap and water. Didn?t harm the fender material at all.

Looks like this.

The Klean Strip site recommends an adhesion promoter called Bulldog. I found this at the English Paints store where I purchased the paint. They said it would not cause any issues as long as I let it do it?s thing before moving on to the primer.

 

[tejasmud]

Now working on the tank, and I have sorted out the plugs for the openings to do the POR15 strip and coating. The tank had been previously coated with Kreem, I think.
It was failing in spots, especially just inside the filler hole of the tank. My guess is when filling up at the gas station dinking the bottom of the tank with the nozzle when filling up penetrated the coating, and then over time the fuel migrated under the coating causing it to fail. To remove the old coating I purchased the POR15 Heavy Duty restoration system. It comes with the stripper, the other kit doesn?t.

Picked up some aquarium gravel at walmart to help with agitation. I figure it is best to sort out all the fine pieces and use the larger ones.

On the plugs, I was reading BassCliff?s mention on his Evapo-Rust procedure, and the plugs he used that he picked up at Home Depot looked perfect. So, I picked some of these babies up, did a little modifying with some rubber sheet instead of the grommets. Excellent idea BassCliff, Thanks!


Tank Cap Plug.

Fuel Gauge Plug.

Now for the petcock plate I just cut some rubber sheet, took the old depleted petcock, cut the valve off with a hacksaw, and pulled the tube/filter off. Looks like this.

Next situation is that being this is a California version tank it has a vent tube under the tank for vapor to escape into a filtering system located at the rear of the bike in the trunk. This most likely means the gas cap is not vented, and this tube needs to remain open.

Cali Tank Vent

Suppose I?ll cap it off then when the time comes to do the POR coating run a clothes hanger through to keep it open.


Last picture for now is the pricy box of goodies. The paint and supplies.

Hehehehehehe...........

Soon I'll be running them "Pulg Chops", and plan on getting insurance and registration next week.

E

 

[kirkn]

Looking good. Can't wait to see the final paint job.

Funny thing: I have used that Aircraft Stripper (but not the "for plastic" kind) to remove the clear-coat that vintage Honda's come with on many of their aluminum parts - case covers, fork legs, etc. Works fantastic. But, if you read thru the warning label on the back, it clearly and boldly states DO NOT USE ON AIRCRAFT OF ANY KIND. Ironic? I thought so.

My own favorite technique for agitating the inside of tanks for cleaning is to use a handful of 1" drywall screws. They have lots and lots of tiny, sharply-pointed bits to help with rust and debris removal and getting in all the nooks and crannies.

Keep up the outstanding work!

Kirk

 

[tejasmud]

Thanks Kirk.

Never read the label too far. lol

I did spot check the fender before going all out though. Not sure if I would use it on hard plastics, but the fender is pretty pliable. Worked like a champ.

I may end up using drywall screws. Hmmm.. May be easier to remove too. :-k

E

 

[Nessism]

Stripping out all the old Kreem is a seriously sucky job, I know because I've done a couple different tanks myself. That POR paint stripper works pretty well, as does some of that "aircraft" stripper. I've also used MEK which also will work. Just make sure you allow the tank to vent while the stripper cooks inside since it will outgas and build pressure inside the tank - the tank will pooch if you don't bleed off the pressure.

Have fun.

 

[tejasmud]

Have fun.

Of course.

That little vent tube will work as a good vent I suppose. I'll keep an eye on it.


A little change up on the primer also. After doing some further reading. I was a little uneasy with the K36, and the bare metal/plastics preparation recomended before usage. K36 as quoted was not what I really needed. So, I changed to DP48LF epoxy primer. It seems it will bite into most any substrate.

See, I'm having fun.


E